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Get the electrical then valve lash, and timing set first then focus on the carbs. First some questions: Do you have a sync tool? Is the manifold and linkage in good shape and solid with equal length push rods? What is type and serial number of each of the 3 carbs?

Here is how the pros fake the gap. Bondo and parallel blade.

Or drive it out then re-insert

Fashion a small crowbar like piece of metal with flat blade end ground narrow to push pin.

If you jet without an air filter, then add one that is restrictive, it will act like an old fashion choke and move the manifold vacuum further up the throat of the carb and cause richness. Make sure your filter flows freely and check a/f after adding.

Yes, extra to be trimmed. Those pics are of initial fitting.

Black Dragon Kit on Jan 71

AKA "soft mount": Rubber O ring insulators between the carb and manifold. The carbs are then secured with either bolts passing through rubber grommets or thackeray washers.

I think a 3.364 gear would be great in a Z used for long trips (like going to Zcon in October).

I think this is a little optimistic. Maybe the goal was to get 200kph at 12 o'clock position?

But how hard is it to **** up a rotor.... the easiest thing to make on a car? It is made with one metal, on tools that have been around for hundreds of years, it has no moving parts, yet they turn it into a polished turd by making it look like a rotor but use the worst steel known to mankind. The only lesson I learned is that the crooks at Napa sell $15 to $70 rotors that are all the same Chinese $^!#. None are worth buying.

Possibly but when you get things manufactured in China, you generally need to QA every item to ensure quality. Who can do this? It is usually statistical samples that are required to maintain quality.... and unless you have boots on the ground who can not be bought or tricked and can take truly random samples then you are screwed as the manufacturers will play the tricks to cheat. The first rule of doing business is to know that lying is OK. The second rule is that certifications, qualifications, and any quality document is either forged or a rubber stamp. When this crooked system hits your raw materials supply chain, you get steel screws in the first batch then white metal in all the rest until you complain.

I think it is both but more China itself. I used Chinese kit when I worked for a Chinese company and the metal in their products made for the Chinese market and rest-of-world market was pure crap: stripped threads, no reinforcing, "soft" bolts, chromed EMF edge shielding that crumbled like snow when inserting a circuit pack. My friends in China only bought non-Chinese produced goods when possible.

Kats, @moelk made very nice speedometer face plate reproductions on this thread:

Fred you are lucky. Falling cars from crap metal ...cripes! I'm going to start logging this crap on a web page. The problem can easily be fixed by having the crap vetted on entry into North America... effectively a "quality wall". China manufacturers must pay for quality and health and safety officers who are North American citizens who vet every shipment. If China won't do QA and H&S in China then we should do it here on their dime to balance fair costs of real manufacturing and protect ourselves at same time. I hate China crap every time the temp drops near freezing and the Garmin GPS power cable in my car freezes solid.... great Chinese fake rubber at its best.

2 year old Napa premium $70 brake disks seized to hub of my daughter's Rav4. The "steel" rots and expands between the inside of the rotor and outside of the hub to pinch them onto the hub. I used lots of copper antiseize but to no avail. It is not a chemical bond but physical expansion of the flaking Chinese $^!#. Of the 4 threaded holes in the two rotors used for their removal, 3 stripped and the last actually cracked the rotor! Pure $^!#. Just ordered replacements from Toyota.

First Z I ever drove in my garage.

The photo above is Aug 1971 Dan filled in for McLaren when Bruce died (check out the excellent McLaren documentary on Netflix). He won that CAN-AM race in July 1970...when the first Z raced in Canada.

Sad news.

This was my garage from 2003 to 2016. It was built in 480,000,000 BC. Maguma Group, Halifax formation.

Thanks Charles for the perseverance and excellent documentation. I'll be following in your foot steps shortly. I have a Caswell Kit from 2012 that I will break out soon. I have some nitric acid for the brightening dip.

Blodi, you need a skidoo!

I'll send a couple of Z's over to sell in a couple of years when they turn 50 Nice time to retire the cars and me.

You guys just read it for the Wayne's World pictures