240260280

I'll grab it when there

Sold my Blue 72 today... looks like Blue 77 will be heading to Georgia

A few years ago in the moonlight. I could hear it rusting.

I took my 72 out for a spin on the street today. Near freezing but no snow.

I experimented with tucking and rectangular muffler up into the well behind the wheel. It looks great but it becomes a cavity resonator and significantly couples noise into the cabin. I now know why Z's have the low profile round muffler that seem to try and stay out of that cavity. Yes there is a muffler in there.

Let's go racing:

Sean, have you looked at Helmholtz resonators, H joints, or 1/4 wave devices to further tune or improve the exhaust systems?

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/datsun/240z/1957214.html

http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/

Photo shows 72 or 72 240z I looked up two parts in Boxes: 1 Timing Chain 2 Nissan Caliper Seal kit Other Parts: Caliper hardware (sealed) Brake Master (bagged) Alternator (bagged) Plug wires (Belden) Choke Lever TEAC cassette or 8 Track Smog pump (used) Starter Remanufactured "Datsun" starter (in box) Alternator V Reg (non-nissan) Diodes (boxed) Wiper Arms (Boxed) Air filter (Boxed) 2 coils Lower rad hose upper rad hose washer pump (boxed) Some cloth braided hoses and some bagged used clutch clutch (boxed) oil filters oil cap (bagged) relays water pump U joint Fuel Pump Carter Electric? (boxed) Carb kits (boxed)

oh oh... I added my post to the 2016 thread above and started a chain reaction...

I just pulled apart a head and took photos for the above procedure. I'll post here tomorrow.

Finally did some Z work... for a friend. Removed cam and head. Cylinder 4 plug was slightly black and oily. 4 head bolts around cylinder 4 were dry and crusty, all others were smooth and oily. Head bolt above exhaust ports in centre broke... but enough is out for the engine shop to weld to... lucky day. Cylinder 4 and 3 had some crust where the eyebrows are (L26 engine), piston tops look good. I had to call it a night. I'll peel off head gasket and inspect it further tomorrow along with valves. I took lots of photos

Carpets look nice. Neat photo of the old guy... he looks like he spent his grocery money on car parts though.

You are not special. I knocked a wire off my friend's hacked up 510 wiring when installing Webers for him, It took many hours to make good. Nice to be in your company! Congratulations!

1967/1968 Parallel Pipes in Road Test Prototype: And a dual exhaust in the 1967/1968 styling stages:

For the rocker install: Turn cam so that the problem lobe is up. Install the lash pad. Place the rocker beside the lowered adjuster and fit the other end into the lash pad. Rotate the rocker toward the adjuster and try to lift its end up onto the adjuster's ball cap. If the pressure is too much, you can stick a very large screw driver between the spring retainer and the cam. Pry the retainer down by using the cam body (not the lobe) as the fulcrum. Obligatory WW image: If she were a president, she'd be Baberham Lincoln.

Good find! Glad it is not lower end. Sweep the head with a magnet (including springs) to try and find the broken pieces. Also put a super magnet on the outside of the oil pan near the drain to try and localize any debris. Remove the magnet when you drain the oil and hopefully it will be close enough to the drain to get carried out with the flow. For installing the rocker, you just need to wind down the adjuster all the way. Fit the rocker end between the cam and lash pad then pop the other end over the adjuster ball. Sometimes a long flat screwdriver helps as a lever to push down valve spring a wee bit. Be sure to inspect the cam lobe and two rocker faces for wear or damage. Excellent!

Rats.... good luck finding out what is going on.

Get the spoke wheels that are for sale on this site then put some Ferrari Badges on it! Mess with their heads! Looks beautiful!

Crack'n!

If you use the "Snail" flow tool, it is designed for single cylinders (Weber DCOE typically) so the flow from the 3 combined cylinders drawing from each SU carb on a 240z makes it "pin" easily at >2000 rpms. Some of these snails have a hole in the side that can be exposed to reduce the air through the meter at high rpms. (see the hole in the side below). You may have to punch a hole in the inner rubber to make it work. Just rotate the inner rubber to close any hole you make.

There is always a lot of Datsun "spirit" in your posts. Motivating like watching car restoration TV programs. For the chain slop, are you turning CW at the crank (ref. standing in front of car)? Usually the left side (ref. driver) has tension all the time when turning and when stopped so it will not flap that much until lifting pedal at high revs. The tensioner on the other side usually takes up the slop after the oil pressure is up so the slop will be less on the road... but as you say it does look like a lot of slop regardless. You can have a look for stretch by using the triangle cam sprocket markers at TDC. Check the inside of the valve cover above the chain to see if it left you any gifts. Maybe do a compression test too while you have the engine in the car before pulling it. You may want to do more when it is out

Way to go! You da man!