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Watch at 10 seconds into this video. It is easy:

The smoothing prevents accurate comparing of runs. It is not recommended. The dark black line 155-170-35mm seems tightest (12.5 +/- 0.5) but a bit on the rich side. Use this combo but open the air up to >200 and see if it brings up the upper end to flatten the curve more. The lower end will also rise. Once you can get the curve relatively flat, the main fuel jet can be tuned to get you ~ 13. Are the accel jets still working? They could be part of the high rpm richness. I recommend you disable them.

It works better if you flood the cylinder and let it soak.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-510-CA-Blue-Plates-Survivor-1-Owner-/172751505506?hash=item2838cac862:g:2VUAAOSw0j9ZUz8Y&vxp=mtr

Seafoam is mostly Colemans Camper Fuel (naptha) 1. Pale oil 40-60% (diesel) 2. Naptha 25-35% (camper fuel) 3. IPA 10-20% (rubbing alcohol)

The last plot has some smoothing going on? Here is a best fit (Red):

Looks like that did it! My post above came after your last switch.

You now have less fuel when the mains start. (Referenced to your June 21 post further above) Try drilling out the air corrector to lean the high end like you suggest however it may lean the low end too.

Check out the seafoam tests on youtube on lawn mowers... not a big result.

A correct installation requires the use of sealants. It is in the FSM. Many people who do not use sealant may garage their cars or may live in areas where there is not a lot of rain or snow. When in doubt follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Try 15btdc with max ~ 36degerees

What is timing at idle and at 3000rpm? What head gasket did you use?

The popping is from unburned fuel igniting inside the exhaust pipe. If oxygen gets into the exhaust pipe through: 1. too much cam overlap during over run 2. poor valve adjustment 3. burned exhaust valve 4. holes in the exhaust system 5. too big an exhaust pipe and reversion then the oxygen will ignite the fuel and cause the popping. The other possible causes are: 1. retarded timing igniting the fuel when the exhaust valve is partially opened 2. too rich a carb setting sending unburned excess fuel out with the exhaust gas.

Thanks Alan, Any ideas on the 230HP detail in item #11. It seems only the 380A-II engine was pushing this amount in 1967. Was this some special cam'd or race S20 engine?

Where is 27?

So.... after seeing and hearing and smelling the 1965 R380-I with triple DCOE 42 & 200HP (actually 45 in Austin). I am guessing the last test case #11 above had the R380A-II engine with triple DCOE-45 engine to give the listed 230HP? The 160HP base S20 was not produced until 1968 so it would have made sense to try the end-of-line R380A-II engines for F U N ! Kats what is your guess? The "G8B" label looks a lot like "GR8" typo. Do you think they tested the Prince engines in the Z in 1967? Or A/B680X Engine and Transmission?

Looks interesting. White w Blue is pretty. The other White & Blue ate VINS around 360 and 370 so I would guess the VIN to be around there. The seat belt clips seem like from a very early 69 along with the hand throttle however the plastic bellows/elbows that route air into the top rail in the engine compartment are from a later Z along with the horizontal defoggers and hood bumpers. Lots of good parts there but the body is ripe. Dash looks nice. $1000 hubcaps $1000 radio $3000 dash $1000 center console $3000 engine and transmission $9000 car as is.

The one you have is great for where the metal and seal meet when first installing. Once installed, fix any problems with the one I suggested. It is especially nice when sealing the seal to the glass.

Just bought the program for the April4-12, 1970 NYC International Automobile Show. 208 pages and it comes with a special 8 page Datsun 240z insert. I'll scan and post to this thread when it arrives.

Run this along the rubber. It is clear and flows. Stick the nose between the glass and rubber on the outside and run along the 2 sides and bottom. Scrap away the extra after it cures. https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/permatex-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer/

There are devices to prevent too much vacuum on deceleration by limiting how fast the throttle valve will snap shut. It will pull oil past the rings and valve seals if it closes too fast at high rpms. I'm not sure if burning oil pops in the exhaust but it may be worth looking at.

A-G Signing Zup's dash of fame!