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I guess the Innovative is too short for accurate idle measurements. That is nice to know. Makes me happy about my contraption.

30's and 40's A/F readings means outside air is contaminating the measurement. AF of Stoch (~14.7) at cruise is great to hear! Congratulations! FYI: You can make pipes to collect samples deeper inside the exhaust. Here is a picture of my home-made copper tube in action: The 3/4" pipe has a input hole at the far end where the exhaust enters (I used a 1/2" to 3/4" reducer to make the tip input). The sampled exhaust then travels through the longe 3/4" tube and out to the sensor (still inside the copper pipes) and loops back in the section below (4X 90 elbows) into a 1/2" pipe that takes the sample back into the tail pipe up to where the 3/4" pipe starts. The 1/2" pipe is capped at its end but a hole in the side of the1/2" pipe (near the cap) is where the exhaust gas sample exits the copper system). It exits approximately 2 feet upstream from the sensor you see. The sampled exhaust is drawn out by the scavenging effect of the non-sampled exhaust pipe gas flowing by the exit hole in the side of the 1/2" pipe. This architecture keeps the input and output of the sample way up inside the muffler to prevent outside air contaminating the measurement. The O2 sensor is screwed into a 3 way coupler that has 2 X 3/4" and 1 X 1/2" ports. I soldered a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer in the top port and tapped it for the O2 sensor. Innovate make a cast fitting that does the same thing: BTW: for SU carb tuning, I often work with an A/F of 30 when disabling one carb at a time. This trick doubles the air so A/F goes from 15:1 to 30:1

FYI Bung location in manifold will show fast transients but for sustained periods of throttle, the tail pipe and bung shows the same A/F. Monitor the AF when you stab to see what is going on. That is when the accelerator jets are active. The stab could slow the velocity of the air-fuel charge and cause the fuel to drop out of the charge. What is your a/f at steady 60mph on flat highway and at 70mph?

50th anniversary 240Z is just around the corner.

No that is the President Note the two tone leather outfit.

Armourall of course but... no. Here are some ideas from the web: guns: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/24200-that-super-shiny-finish/ https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/e4/78/b0/e478b0136310ff9fb0852711048541d0.jpg Salad Dressing:https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/e4/78/b0/e478b0136310ff9fb0852711048541d0.jpg http://homeguides.sfgate.com/polishing-leather-couch-shiny-look-31377.html

That is a great car at a low price to jump on. I am in Canada. It is not hard to bring cars back. Budget $1000 USD to transport it to the border and a couple of hundred (CAD) for brokering (for new vehicle registry thing Obama introduced a few years ago). The US Govt. (Customs/Border Protection) need 3 days notice of VIN and your intent to take out of USA. They check for stolen vehicles and maybe liens etc. They do not charge anything. When you bring into Canada you just have to pay GST + $100CAD if the car has AC. It is not that bad a process.

Looks like a clean car. Low vin and most parts are in good order. Dash cap, radio, and engine are a few obvious parts that are not original. Seems like a good value. at current $13k. I would estimate that to be a $20k to $30k car.

Properly tuned Webers. Tis a mechanical thing of beauty. btw we are lucky with our forgiving 6 cylinders as one throat slightly off (16.7%) at idle is not as noticeable as on a 4 cylinder (25%).

Wow you really appreciate the little things on the Datsun carbs and linkage. The MGB is very crude when compared and tricky to sync off-idle. In the end the owner was happy with the results and I had my first drive in an MGB convertible.

Great! You are in business!

McCoy Voice: "JIM!!!! for God's sake man! I'm a doctor not a sales man....and you are Canadian... put it on Kijiji". Scottie: "Aye, and I am Canadian too. Do it man!" Chekhov: "Kip Tan, day are korrect."

Because both throats are controlled by a single idle set screw, sometimes wear or manufacturing variations cause one throat to flow more than the other at idle. The bypass is used to balance air flow between the two throats. Normally the bypass valves are closed off but if one throat is flowing more air than the other at idle, you can balance the carb by opening the bypass on the throat flowing less air. This procedure is only needed at idle. FYI: The old way was to drill small holes in the throttle plate to balance (see photo below). (btw the holes solder-up nicely if over-drilled).

btw you can open up your idle enrichment screws to speed up idle with the throttle plates closed. It adds both air and fuel at the same time. For selecting the correct idle jet, you will have to prioritize the cruising and transition circuit first as there is no adjustment for tuning this circuit this except by changing the idle jet size and fuel level. Once you get a good air/fuel mixture at cruise, you can go to the idle circuit and set the idle enrichment screw and air bypass to tweak the idle. Finally you do some WOT runs to tune the main circuit and select the main jet and air corrector. It is iterative and there are some interactions between all of the circuits so it takes a while to get it all under control. One of the most overlooked aspects of tuning is to get all of the slop out of the linkage and to ensure all throttle plates are opening at the same time and the same amount. Make sure all 3 linkage arms are fastened at the same angle to the main throttle rod and that all rod distances are the same.

Great! Here is an old trick to visually ensure your throttle plates are set as closed as they can be. With the engine shut off, remove the inspection covers just over the progression holes (2nd picture below). Shine a light into the holes or throat to see where the throttle plate is parked. It should be at the first hole and the same for all 3 carbs. Try and get the top of throttle plate as close to engine as possible at idle so that only the idle mixture hole is working (not always possible). This will ensure you sweep the full extent of the progression holes:

The large 36mm chokes may be the challenging item for street tuning. There are a few items you will have to determine for the resolving the flat spot: A. Is there enough fuel from the main circuit during the transition? (Is the choke too large and the air velocity is not enough to bring in the main circuit early enough?) B. Is there sufficient fuel delivered from the idle circuit during the transition? (Is the choke too large or the throttle plate too far out and the idle circuit falls off too early?) A. For bringing the main in early you have the following items you can tune: 1. Fuel level: higher fuel level brings the main in earlier. Stock level is ~ 29mm but you can push it you towards 26mm if you can deal with the other side effects. 2. New E tubes biased towards more fuel in the lower range. 3. Smaller chokes (increasing throat vacuum to draw more fuel) B. For extending the idle circuit further out you have the following items you can tune: 1. Adjusting the throttle plate so that it is as close to completely closed at idle (if your carbs have idle bypass balance passages you can use these). 2. Use a richer idle jet. 3. Raise the fuel level in the bowl. I would not worry about the acceleration jets until you exhaust the above. FYI A typical test method (for conducting on a flat road without a lot of traffic, stops, etc.) is to remove the 6 main jets and run around on idle jets. This exploratory real-world driving will tell you how well the idle circuit works and its rpm range. (critically the rpm's and loads where the idle circuit stops contributing to going forward ). You should be able to get a good idea of how much it is contributing to the transition circuit. You may have to tune it to attain higher rpm range to help with the transition. You should be able to slowly accelerate to highway cruise speeds on the idle jets. Do this and tune the 3 items in B above to get the idle working nicely into the transition RPM's of 2000 to 3500. <<< Warning: running with no jets makes your car tricky to drive as you have to stay in the low rpm range at all times. Do not do this test in traffic.>>> Drive out to a quiet country road (typically the ones alongside rivers are flat). Pull your main jets on the side of the road when at the test location... enjoy.

It's available for purchase in Texas. $18.50 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-DATSUN-240-260-280Z-GAS-CAP-DOOR-Painted-w-TIGER-Japanese-characters-/292089787026?hash=item4401e87292:g:Lt0AAOSwnF9Y6UrA&vxp=mtr Hinge Detail:

She looks good now, all fresh and perky... wait 'til she gets old and saggy: (a poorly stored Z bra)

Organ collector. Don't go. They have a medical van waiting to harvest.

N47 Alternatives according to profiles: KI will give richer mid band: http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=KI SM will give richer high rpm band SA and SH will give leaner mid-high band KH will give richer low-mid and leaner mid-high band SI will giver richer low-mid and richer mid band SP will give leaner mid and high band band

" i figured out the problem there. when i pulled the distributor apart to grease the centrifugal advance, i installed the part the rotor sits on 180* off. very easy to do " I'm glad you got it sorted! We were all puzzled. Here are a couple of pictures to help others who may do distributor maintenance and get mixed up like both you and I did