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Hi Mike, FYI: I just registered but hotel booking failed. They said $139 rate is no longer available and quoted rates of ~ $260/night.... crazy. Do you think the Zclub can arrange for more rooms at the favourable rate or book a nearby hotel otherwise it will be AirB&B off site for us. Thanks!

I have a 72 shell that I can ship over as well as a 77

We used to have our annual Z club meeting on the Harbour Front but now we just go to the Atlantic Nationals. ~ 1000 to 2000 cars usually 2nd or 3rd week of July. Hank visited the Z Barn a few years ago (near Wolfville) and he passed me at midnight in NB coming back from ZCon last August. Janet and I were in the "shoe". Come on out.

Waaaaaayyyyyyyy OOOOOvvvvveeeerrrrrr HHHHeeeeerrrrreeeeee iiiinnnn NS

Grinder is your friend. 1. Pull out the rod as far as it will go then cut it off with the grinder. 2. Make a stop to reduce grinding into the tube top: - Build up around the end of the tube (under the nut) with wood or metal (small piece of plywood with a 2" hole then sliced in half to fit the end) or some metal strap wound around the end and a 2-1/2" water hose worm gear clamp to hold it. 3. Start grinding away from the top to cut away the top of the nut. Once the top is free the strut can come out then you can heat and cool the remaining threads until free. REMEMBER THAT HEAT AND STRUT INSERTS ARE DANGEROUS.. BE CAREFUL. FYI My dad had me cut used oil well casing pipe when I was a teenager so I like the grinder as a last resort when parts don't budge. With the casings, if there was mud inside it often trapped gas so the pipes would blow out some times.... good fun!

Sorry, yes I am please PM me. (This is Blue, I am at this handle to sync with a new web site I am developing).

This 2" ID Square Tubing may do the trick: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10355&step=4&showunits=inches&id=845&top_cat=849 For a long version, cut a 1' to 2' piece and weld a cross to the top to make a "T" to reduce non-rotating forces. For a short version just cut 3" and weld a T handle to the side.

I think he means your clutch can now do crazy things like pulling stumps:

Jeff is a great guy. He will get a kick out of it and appreciate your sticking up for his work.

I may have posted it before but worth a 2nd look: https://youtu.be/5rj5-49IW_U

I think you just exposed Mr H.

I'm wondering if you can spin them on a potter's wheel type contraption and sand the non-painted areas smooth then go for another re-chorme once smooth? The painted areas can be sanded and filled like regular body work so it is only the non-painted areas that need the extra attention.

Bright lad!

But then toe 300ZX came along: http://autowaffle.com/biscuits-and-crazy-the-spartan-ii-the-fanciest-300zx-in-the-world/

http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/other-makes/222838-1983-spartan-neo-classic-built-on-280zx-with-full-options-runs-perfect-classic.html

Thanks! I have a couple of early consoles. I'll have a look tonight. PM to be sent.

Thanks Mike. I can send you something you need. Now or later. Just let me know! I have loads of stuff. Philip

Transmission Coupling Grease Mercruiser Extreme Spline Grease

Getting the right sealants, oils, and greases also helps.

I need the plastic door "handle" part on a very early ash tray if anyone has this part for sale. The early lids were made from two parts, a handle and the main cover.

Hi Jim, I'll buy them. Paypal now or cash when I see you in June at Zcon works for me Philip

This one will get the dash.

Trained bats could get into that attic and fly parts out at night.