240260280

@EuroDat helps out: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59492-wtb-280zx-distributor-e12-80/?tab=comments#comment-541677

Bob Sharp had one by May 1970 ?

https://nationalpost.com/news/canada/forget-boot-camp-dnd-spends-about-200000-a-year-on-weight-loss-surgeries-for-morbidly-obese-troops

Replace oil with cheap stuff Pull plugs Put lots of penetrating oil in each cylinder Wait 4 hours Oil cam and lobes Turn crank at snout by hand. Prime oil system Replace oil and filter Replace all rubber fuel lines including bowl to jet. Clean carbs and ensure proper set up/functioning Start it

@flynjim Welcome Jim... be sure to find local members or a local club. Many will be happy to help you refresh your Z! Original owners are rare and appreciated! Please tell more stores... especially about the waiting lists and colour/option selections you faced in 1970.

You can adjust vacuum advance too. There is a set screw on the front of many "pots". These screws control the rotation of the breaker plate.

I forgot to mention that a great product available from Honda Dealers is called Shin Etsu Grease. Just put some on the rubber seals or any soft rubber part, rub in with a cloth and it looks and feels like new. It also prevents doors from sticking closed in the cold. Honda Part Number is 08798-9013. They usually have behind the parts counter at the Honda Dealer. \\

I think it is that distance that makes it work/not work. Moving the hole higher in the shorter spans may help fix the problem.

Little Fauss and Big Halsy

Interesting how the air pressure lifts the hood on the Fuji straight.

It would be helpful.

1970 All Japan Suzuka 1000km (May 23/24, 1970) Car #19 Fairlady Z432R 167 laps Hiromi NISHINO / KOJI FUJITA (1st)

It looks like your spindle needs to be moved ~ a tooth CCW (~8 degrees) and that will help to give you more initial timing advance now that the damper is fixed.

Assume the mechanical timing of the valves and pistons is correct for now. You seem to need more spark (electrical) advance. Did you use a timing light to measure the timing at idle and at 3000rpm? If so, what is the initial timing at idle and at 3000 rpm?

Step 1 Put your engine at top dead centre (TDC) Note that there is a TDC for the intake stroke and a TDC for the exhaust stroke. You need to get TDC at the intake stroke. Step 2 Remove the distributor (1 10mm wrench to remove adjuster locking bolt). Step 3 Look down where the hole where the distributor was and you should see this: note the angle of the key and the small lobe Report what you find.

No problem. It is easy to set up your timing. We will help you out!

My first meter was a BECKMAN back in the 80's... very reliable. I gave it to my father a long time ago and he still uses it. I now have a monster Fluke in the garage that is too much meter.... so I agree with SteveJ's list... they are just right. Fluke make a tiny one that seems useful and inexpensive called the 101. It would be great for your son or anyone that is a young'n ? https://www.fluke.com/en-in/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-101 ~ $70-$100 new

432R has plexiglass windows (except front) to save weight... body is lighter too.

Yeah. Fluke is great. Even old used ones are tough, accurate and dependable.