240260280

Sorry I missed Oct 10th. BIG DAY. @kats Here are some videos of arrival of first Z's from Kats (BIG THANKS!) . Music: "These Days" Nico and Jackson Brown USAArrival&Prep.mp4

It may go lean as the rpms rise (theoretical) but practically on Webers it mostly just leans all of the WOT run so I can't say on your M's The pilot/idle jet is also too large, You may want to adjust after you sort the Main. What is your idle a/f and cruise at 60mph a/f? Aim for 13 for smooth idle, aim for 14.5 for clean idle Aim for 14.5 for norm cruise. Aim for 16 for fuel efficient cruise.

Same brand Head Gasket?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdnm1fG2Dao

copper backing and shot of compressed air to cool?

Actually you are very lucky to drive with a/f of 9 and 10! JobBill is spot on!

Differences can be in body casting and possible changes to machining and components. Here are some of the key items that can change: 1. progression hole size, quantity, location 2. throttle plate angle 3. accelerator pump excursion probably others that I am forgetting. For triple applications, it is important that all 3 carbs are the same.

they look like 40 dcoe 27 not 45s

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Fits-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Triple-45-Bologna-Used-With-Cannon-Intake/153688501474?hash=item23c88c6ce2%3Ag%3ACMAAAOSwT59dqNT~&LH_ItemCondition=4

@Mike Posted this great table: Here is what you need for starting: So your main is too large,and pilot is too large. Reducing these will raise your A/F

The vent is the big fat tube (bottom one) below. It goes to the 3 way valve next to your coil on the inner fender. See the red cap on the 3 way valve in the second picture below.

The only vacuum line needed is the one that provides vacuum to the brake booster. You have a 1973 or 74 manifold so you can remove most parts on it and ensure that all holes are plugged. No need to plug water holes. You will need a way to hook up the throttle return springs. You will also need a low pressure fuel source ~3 to 4psi. Here is a minimalist application of SU's on an L28

The reverse switch is the brass object near the middle bottom.

Interesting: 240/260Z/280Z have same Mikuni Settings for 40mm's. Weber and Mikuni are close for same choke:

Good. It seems like you just have to re-do that step and all will be fine.

Not Mikunis but close enough that you may pick up some helpful data: http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

Post some photos of your intake and we can annotate them to help you

Please post a photo of the tang under the distributor. It should look like this when the crank is at TDC: 11:27 is more accurate ?

Maybe bead blast or vapour blast then leave in the rain for a few weeks? Your bead blast looks very close.

Rare NOS showing us what came out of the factory: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-Valve-Cam-Cover-NEW-OLD-STOCK-WITH-TAGS-240Z-260Z-280Z-OEM-NOS/333359148743?hash=item4d9dc0eec7:g:USkAAOSwTeJdoie7 Here is a valve cover painted with high temp aluminum

20mm down is fine too.

https://translate.google.ca/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.de%2Fstr%2Fmotorkontorclassic%3F_trksid%3Dp2047675.l2563

https://www.ebay.de/itm/ORIGINAL-DATSUN-ANSAUGKRUMMER-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-FOR-DATSUN-240Z/222962824399?hash=item33e99eb4cf:g:nDAAAOSwbJla6cnS

I plan to do a tribute to the first 240z displayed at the Tokyo Motor Show so that is where my splash pan is planned, but, I still can not ascertain if it actually had one from the photos. If not, I could sell it to you. (or trade for orange tail lights or Fairlady Z style spoiler) The 432 and Fairlady Z L had them:

Polish yours then zinc plate it