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10 while cranking , 25 at idle, 32-38 max, and higher only under cruise would be great

Z's love advance while idling so 25 is fine....but it usually pings when under load as the rpms rise. Starting would be hard at 25!

Looks great! Even stickers are in place

It is too rocky here to do underground cost effectively.... we had a hurricane hit 15 years ago that did much more damage but I guess it groomed the area of weak trees. A construction crane toppled but landed on an empty building so all was good. Power is back on ?

Well it was not that bad but the state of the power grid is a shocker. ~ 70% to 80% of the province is out. Lovely privatization and build to lowest price and max profits.... we are running internet modem on a deep cycle battery. I'll try to pick up a solar charger to keep it going. A lot of branches down but the Z's and other cars in the yard are fine ?

Parked cars and removed all potential flying debris as a hurricane is about to hit ? Finger's crossed.

If you have Weber's, there is an open air inlet to the fuel bowl on the front face that some filters do not cover.

I recently rebuilt carbs with no filters. What a pile of dirt and silt inside. The engine is also blowing oil through the top of valve cover so open air engines is not a good thing nor cool based on first hand observations. I notice a lot of road grit is thrown up by the vehicles in front as they pass over it. It is very noticeable when traveling behind a truck with a Jersey Barrier on the side. Grit collects at the barrier and you sand blast your car as you drive through the wake of the truck in front.

Don't forget to run the 280z sense contact to the coil negative. See the red wire here:

So sad. Glad you are OK.

A light one (for its age) on Ebay now https://www.ebay.com/itm/71-72-73-Datsun-240Z-original-wood-steering-wheel/401870820147?hash=item5d915e1333%3Ag%3AzvEAAOSwHm1dbvfj&LH_ItemCondition=4

On the 240z, the impulse signal from the coil flowing current for each spark passes through the white loop. The early tach has a circuit that detects this impulse and uses it to turn the rpm needle. If the loop is disconnected, the 240z circuit will not work... however, this is usually not an issue as the distributor wiring would have been reworked with the ZX swap to cause the need to change the tach guts.

Finally drove Blue around the block. I have been ignoring and mistreating Blue for many years. I just put a new brake system on it and wheel spacers. The cunning plan is to add a G-nose and ZG flares but keep stockish wheels to reduce rolling resistance for highway cruising (and spacers to fill flares and widen stance). A low ratio R180 differential, AC, ultra sound proofing, and an 88mm P90 engine will make it run long. It looks very hillbilly at the moment lol. If the spacers are difficult to tame then Diamond Customs here I come. Sadly it will eventually be Japanese racing white so Blue will go bye bye.

I just unplug the small wire by hand and use a large flat screwdriver to short the +12V cluster connector to the exposed connector. Double check the car is not in gear or it will drive at 200rpm!!!!

bearings at the top of the front struts are worth getting. also the ball and socket tension/compression kit does wonders for steering through corners and bumps

Thanks Mike, Perfect timing! I'm just doing the upgrade for a friend. You can go to a junk yard and get the correct fitting for the T connector on the matchbox igniter from any 240zx non turbo.

Have a look at what Alan @HS30-Hposted in the past ? Very interesting stuff! https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/236658-1969-nissan-s20-twin-cam-engine-rebuild-7.html#post3352097

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