240260280

OK I'll try to find one. Ebay only has this substitute currently: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MANUFACT-GEN-Engine-Oil-Pressure-Switch-25070-89972/272853013165?epid=140384145&hash=item3f874e92ad:g:VMkAAOSw4Z5aMHt6

? It is not my switch. Hovered. But I have some early 1969 240z engines that may have the 140psi senders. I have to check them. Do you need a new one or will a used one that functions do the trick?

@kats Here is a Jan 1971 240z on first drive after a rebuild with stock sender and gauge. The oil pump is a turbo with the spring shimmed with washers to increase pressure.

TSB from 1973 Issue. Here is 140psi Sender:

@87mj Here is a photo of a 70 freshly landed in Canada ~ June/July 1970. It has a straw coloured wheel.

Asobi Seksu from NYC has a few nice songs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxue5FAmew4

I like Sakamoto's work with Sylvian https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aokGEMTCWg but my fav Japanese band is P-Model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCi9VDIDngw

A very unusual problem but you found it. Good work and it should help others who rebuild their carbs. For heat issues in hot regions, I read that some people took thermos bottles of cold water to pour on the fuel pump back in the 1970's

Thanks. No problem.I am on vacation in a very remote area and internet is spotty.

I's be grateful to buy the following:, 240z radio knobs (thanks @siteunseen) 240z rear view mirror, 240z coat hanger hooks, 240z plastic seat belt J hooks and 240z rear tail light plastic finisher (if it has no access ports)

@kats Yes Please. I can offer payment for your troubles to have the film digitized. I think the Z Community would be better for this! You are such a great researcher and source of information! BIG THANKS!

It may be one of yours that I removed the red or from the net. Here is another two I cleaned up:

I think fly wheel would be most accurate from an angular error perspective, and from a mechanical slop perspective: Distributor has gear lash slop at crank Damper has rubber migration and shear. Flywheel is bolted to crank, teeth are farthest from axis for least angular error, and they move fastest for strongest pulse at same rpm. You can easily add more teeth for finer resolution.

Great photos and a beautiful car! Thanks!

carbs.mp4

Details of throttle hand throttle linkage at pedal and cable routing would be nice to see

More photos of every thing at every angle please. btw here is 504:

200sx throttle cable conversion: https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/54528-cable-throttle-linkage.html#post482558

WOW a nice ending for a persistent trouble shooter. That was a very unusual problem to solve. My hat is off to you!!!

Here is @blodi's similar config to yours: It is fairly flat and around 12-13 like yours but a big dip to ~ 10 at the start.

Do it in two steps: 1. Melt some solder on the tip of the iron then place the tip under the wire in the harness. Let the wire heat up then feed solder into it. Keep the heat on it. Congrats you tinned a wire. 2. Wrap the other wire around the tinned section and do the same: Melt solder on the tip then heat the two wires while feeding solder... don't be shy on the heat time. It can take a while. Just keep the iron on the wire.

@moelk Nice A/F. What jets, chokes, fuel level etc are you using? Looks like they had smoothing on. Very similar to @blodi's

194 HP is nice! @blodi had similar with 45's, cam, and L28.