7tooZ

A sip almost always helps. What’s your preference?

‘No, moving the module I s the last thing i did. As I understand you located TDC, you have a pointer or created one. Mark your balancer, it is on the PS of the motor near the top of the balancer. Set your oil pump drive spindle to the 11.20 position. Instal the rotor. It should point to the number one plug wire. If not rotate the distributor until it does. I use a sharpie to Mark the outside of the distributor so you can see where it is without the cap. Now you are a TDC with the rotor and distributor set the number one on compression. Turn on your key and slide the module along the mount until the light on the box comes on. Now you should be a zero degrees advance. Install the cap and install the wires following the firing order. If it doesn’t start rotate the distributors clock wise. @Zed Head I did not have time to reread the full post. I am I missing something Module

now it looks like ended at 310K

just tried to sign on and got notice site is down

Same here Did the site get over run?

I believe it indicates the spark sent to the plug. Same as when the timing light is get the signal. My limited knowledge make me think that if the rotor is pointed at at number one wire and all of your distributor marks at zero and motor at TDC (or close) your timing light should be indicating zero degree. Then adjust distributor to to 7 BTDC or what your manual states. I then adjust timing in small increments based on how feels when driving a hot motor. Mine 240 is at 7 initial and my vacuum advance is working with full advance.

So you fixed the venting issue by reversing the direction. The vent on the rear with the 180 turn in the hose does cause the tank to not fill all of the way if blocked. I had that issue recently when the hose collapsed. Just run a straight hose up to your tank next to the fill tube. I would be curious how your tank turns out and what it cost you. If you don’t mind.

@zdude1967 I have the crane system on my car. It gives you a lot of timing adjustment in the mount inside of the distributor. Now that you have TDC you should be able to point the rotor at number 1 cable then rotate the module on the bracket until the red light come on. That get you very close to Zero degrees. Now that you have it running you be close and that should open up your ability to use your light to set timing where you want it. couple of pictures of mine.

Most us have experienced that already and I more than once. The day you decide to repair rust is when it really get ugly. Enjoy that car and the process.

Hope to catchup with you at a ZCCW meeting or our Whidbey Island Cruise

I have installed several MSA systems on stock motors. It needs a resonator. My best recommendation is to go to a 2.25 or 2.5 pipe with a resonator and a magnaflow flow through muffler. the Zstory system I have is a bit aggressive on WOT above 4500 RPM. very mellow at cruising speeds in 2500 to 3700 RPM. I have been using ceramic coated manifold and parts for over 20years. Currently I have a stock manifold that is ceramic coated matched to a stock down tube converted to to 2.5 in pipe ceramic coated mated to the Zstory exhaust system with the resonator and a JDM muffler. Pretty happy with it. I abandoned the Zstory street header because of the proximity to the rear SU Carb. the race header interfered with the frame on my car. I think you will find that a ceramic coated header is quieter in the engine bay and should flow better and less heat. hope this helps PS I lone Vclamps

@ea6driver bob I have fair large supply of some after market clamps that similar to the original clamps. I cam mail you a few if needed. Don Woodinville wa

Better photo

my short story is I purchased the full system with the JDM muffler. installed with no issues except the number six tube is so close to the Lower SU hose I never felt comfortable. Sean then sent me a Race header where the six tube is away from the SU. seemed okay until I installed it. The lower tube contacted the driver side frame. Tried everything I could to move things but nothing worked. Someone else here had the same issue. So I abandoned the header idea. Too much trouble for a basically stock engine. So I think I have the first dyno pull with a earlier exhaust. Stock exhaust manifold, stock down tube modified to a 2.25 in pipe a glass pak resonator and a Flowmaster muffler. My second pull is with Zstory full system using the Race/street header. This spring I plan to do another using my current system, stock manifold with a stock style down tube mated to the Zstory exhaust. I’ll be interested to see what difference there is. @S30Driver During my process I discovered my original down pipe flange was bad. I had a new one that had already been converted to 2 into 1, 2.5” Pipe. I bought clamps that matched Sean’s clamps installed it then had a local shop match the two together. They did all of the welding (very tidy). Here is photo after ceramic coating.

Just curious. Why are are you replacing your R180 ?

Sold

Sold

Jeff i just noticed that I did not post those Dyno pulls. So I will go to work to find the earliest one as I have the later one saved on line. Also our club does a dyno day annually and I made a change that could be interesting. I have removed the Zstory header and replaced it with a ceramic coated stock manifold mated the the Zstory stainless system. We will be doing the dyno day in March of May at the same shop. In the meantime I will look for the earlier chart back to you soon. don.

@Zed Head thanks

Yah, i havent been able to locate the seller. I have someone who is interested.

Do any of you Oregon members know this car or seller? https://www.classic.com/veh/1971-datsun-240z-series-i-hls3014396-n8vkGYp/ Looking for a contact number

Location of the three screw holes near the rear of the console will tell you a lot on which console came in that car. Has your car been converted to a five speed if so I have seen where the later console was used to allow for the change in the shifter location. a picture of the console you have and the screw hole location would help. D

@Randalla I discovered that the flange on my original down pipe was no longer flat after fighting the same issue for a couple years. Using two gaskets helped for a while. Ultimately i purchased a new down pipe and had it mated to my new Zstory exhaust then ceramic coated it and the manifold. Problem solved. Good luck.

If you can avoid body or rust repair I think you will find owning and enjoy your car is reasonable. Shop time is always an expensive part of repairs. This forum offers repair manual online and many participants here are experts. Learning how to search the forum will help with most questions or just ask. You will probably get multiple responses. Pull up the members map and get to know the members near you and you may find hands on help. A 79 Fj is a classic

Welcome to the group. It has been my experience that finding parts is not necessarily hard as there are many available from after market suppliers. If you are planning a restoration to originality there some that hard to find but not impossible. You can find a few truly OEM parts at places like Ebay and other auction sites including Japan. Used parts are readily available from multiple sources. This site will be helpful in researching correct and quality parts. We will all be looking forward to seeing and hearing more about your car.