7tooZ

@Garm here is my 2 cents dashed on your initial post. Sounds like you are new to this car and possibly Zcars. If that is right my recommendation would be get as much seat time to find out what you like/dislike about it. Make some notes. Hiway speed at what RPM. Think about how much and how often you would actually do that kind of driving. Most stock 240s will run all day long at 70 MPH and capable of pushing out over to 100 MPH. If you get to a point that you are serious about a transmission swap consider so things that come to my mind having put a 83 close ratio in an early 72. How much money is available to commit? A rebuilt wide ratio trans will run $1200+. A close ratio us to1600+. used one a a gamble. Then new clutch? fly wheel? Throw out bearing? Rear seal? Adapting a shift lever to fit your particular car. then there is the diff. can you live with the one you have? My thinking is A 3.70 or 3.90 is needed. hard to find in R180 form. a close ratio could go to a 4:11. Put your car on a jack or stands. Put piece of tape a wheel and one on your driveline. Rotate the wheel and note if both wheels turn in the same direction and count the number full turn you make and how Many turns the drive shaft turns. The more turns you make the better and in multiples of 10. shoot photos of your current diff from side and back . Post what what you get and where you want to go and you will find tons of help here. it’s what these guys do best.q Ps nice car these cars a fun ride in multiple ways.

More Red Flags. Mmmmmmmm

It is possible to have a poorly adjusted choke cable preventing it from opening all of the way. Or causing the butterfly to stay open.

My experience is that when the warm idle speed is in the 750 range with SUs a cold start would require the use of the choke. Both my roadster and my Z have been the same. Cold start to me would be after the car has sit for a day or so I would choke to about 3/4 (depends on how you have the cables set) and may require a couple of tries of 10 seconds before it will catch. I immediately back off the choke to get it to idle at about 1200 or so and then gradually back off the choke to maintain the idle. After driving my will start without choking during the day. I am using Ztherapy SUs. I will let others weigh in on if that is “Normal” based on their experience. Could be another interesting discussion. Your question is making me question my “normal”.

Doesn’t seem right to set the idle speed while the engine is cold. I have always did tuning based on warm/hot engine. Living in the NW cool weather has always meant using the choke to hold idle speed during cold starts and then increasing idle speed as engine warms. Having a throttle lever helps elevate that increasing idle during warm up.

@Mike I did most of my tire research on the tire rack web page they have good description of the different tire ratings and reviews. I ended up purchasing the Michelin Premier A/S. I was mostly worried about ride quality. I have found it hard to wear out a set of tires as they get old or have other issues first. Had mine about two years and have a total of less than 1000 miles on them. mostly ran Pirelli before. Really impossible to to do a personal comparison.

You show be able to reach the hazard switch by just removing the radio and heater vent defrost face plate. A job in its self. But going back what makes you think that has anything to do with brake light failure. If everything works except the lib rake light I would consider the brake light switch. Have you checked it.

Are you looking for just the clamp or the check valve too. I have several off early Zs.

Mike I finally located the one I have. I bought it for the door but the rest maybe able to be used with some work.

Looks like it’s gone.

72 doesn’t have a relay. The harness goes from the blower motor over to the radio and other connections in clouding the ground.

Looks like it has possibility best of luck to you. You are in the right place to get answer to problems.

Mike I have one that you might be able to us. I go digging for it tomorrow.

Waiting the Seattle summer to arrive ETA is July 4th. The Z is ready to roll out of storage.

Dropping the pan makes the gasket suspect. If you lower it you might as well take it out. Once it is down all the way rotate the crank so the pan will clear number one cylinder crank counter weight. I cleaned up the pan gave it a new coat of paint used gasket sealer to attach the gasket and waited over night to install it. are you going to do the timing chain?

Our local Nissan dealer and club sponsor will look them up if you give them the part number, but they aren't good at finding the numbers on the old cars. Usually takes couple days to get. Let me know if you want help.

courtesy has a replacement. You should be able to get it from a local dealer Home Search Results For “15213-21001” 1 Results For “15213-21001” Refine Results Any Year 2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999 1998 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 1991 1990 1989 1988 1987 1986 1985 1984Any Make NissanAny Model 200SX 240SX 300ZX 350Z 370Z 720 Altima Armada Axxess Cube D21 Frontier GT-R Juke Kicks Leaf Maxima Murano NV1500 NV200 NV2500 NV3500 NX Pathfinder Pathfinder Armada Pickup Pulsar NX Quest Rogue Rogue Select Rogue Sport Sentra Stanza Titan Titan XD Van Versa Versa Note XterraClear Filter Oil Filter Stud Part Number: 15213-W040A Replaces: 15213-21000, 15213-21001, 15213-W0400 $8.77 $6.58 Add to Cart

So I experienced this same problem recently. On my 240 motor there were thirteen on the cover and seven on the water pump plus the pan. The bolts that cause you grief are usually the ones around the water pump the broke off. Rust has filled the gap. After I reverified I had all of the bolts out I used a rubber mallet and PB Baster until I created a gap to get a gasket scraper worked behind the cover to help put pressure on it while tapping on the sides with the mallet. Everytime I started to give up I sprayed more Blaster in and took a long break. Eventually it will start to move and that is when you won the battle. PB Blaster love help from the heat if you can. Just keep at it slow and steady. (I have no patients so avoiding a bigger hammer or more pressure was hard for me to avoid. )

Got your PM and sent you a reply. Welcome aboard lots of good info already here and great people to help problem solve.

That's how I do it. forth gear and a block in front of the wheel. Hand brake if it works

Yep, just did a valve job and during the process ended up with two sets Don't plan on needing it any time soon. It will end up in the storage shed never to be found when needed. Let me know where to send it

I would start TDC. Remove the fan and belt drive . I removed the radiator to give good access to the front of the engine. I used a puller to get the harmonic balancer off and the oil pump drive gear off the crank. Don’t forget the two 10mm bolts. Consider replacing the timing chain gear and tensioner and water pump. You may be able the loosen the pan bolts enough to get the front cover off. I had to lower my sway bar to get th oil pump bolts out. I decided to remove the pan and check the bottom end. I center drilled the bolts then tapped new threads. I bought a stainless bolt set. You have to rotate the engine to get the pan out. new front seal is needed. Ps I have a front cover set I don’t need happy to send it to you. Im sure I messed something

Do you remember the brand?

@Jaymanbikes looks like you have an epoxy floor in the garage. I am trying to decide what to put on mine. Which brand did you ? Would you recommend it? How is the durability?

My install purchase a full system which went together well with a few exception. On cars with SUs there is not enough space to used the stock heat shield so custom spring brackets were required. Additionally the exhaust tube for number six cylinder protruded to approximately 3/4 inch below the soft rubber tube on the bottom of the rear SU. I was uncomfortable with a 450+ degrees that close and no room for a heat shield. The next header solved the close contact to the SU but made contact with the torsion rod bracket and would require custom fabrication. Up until now I have used a ceramic coated stock manifold and down pipe with 2.25 exhaust a glass pack resonator an a magnaflow muffler. So I decided to experiment with Sean’s stainless system and the changes I mentioned above. So far so good. Nice sound under throttle but a little loud at WOT. Nice low tone at 70 mph at 2500-2700 rpm. I like the fact that the stainless system uses V clamps on the resonator making it east to remove the system for other work. Tucks up tight except where the pipe is next to the diff. Looks great from the back.