7tooZ

I have tried to find a contact for John Williams. Is it Williams machine inc? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I would think that most of us that have been around the early cars understands the term is used loosely. It is not definitive in most changes over the years. Sort of like is it 71 or 72 because that is what the title says it is because of what the build date is? For me I like to know the build date because gives you a good place to start. My $0.02. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Interesting options for someone who wants to build a specific differential and can do the labor themselves. Neither have popped up on my Radar so cant comment. My goal was to determine if there is a low budget way to add LSD to a 240Z. I have a line on both a 2004 & 2005 STI diff with 3.90 gears. I am leaning toward the Silver Mine stub axles to maintain the low cost goal. Looks like it will be close to the $1000 mark. That assumes the diff does not have to be opened. Moelk is the only one who has responded to having used them and indicates no issues.

Zed I think I am agreeing with you. The question I posed is assuming using a used Subaru LSD was diff if you can find the type and ratio you want. Most are available in the 250.00 CL or 550.00 shipped and 30 day warranty. Obviously you can write a check and get exactly what you want. My R200 with a new Mfactory LSD cast me 1800.00 + 300.0 for a R200 got me what I wanted and is basically like new. My question I posed is really about a lower budget DIY that most owners can do in their garage. I was hoping there were others out there have actually done it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

This is where I find it confusing. I have recently been searching and find that a Subaru conversion (clutch type) will run about $1000 - 1200. That’s 500 for 3.90 diff from 2004 Sti, a 500 for axles. A DIY install. Isn’t a quaife unit for a R180 about $1100-1300, I had one installed in July in an R200 with new bearings and seals $850 cost of professional install. Now if you are capable Of setting the backlash correctly then okay it’s closer, but not a few $100 Where did I miss it

Where would you go to purchase that Quaife for a R180? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I didn’t want to takeover Matthew Abate’s post regarding Subaru Stub axles. But I have some questions: Are there “datsun stub axles” that will fit into the Subaru R180s? Where are members buying aftermarket axles? Have you purchased some and what is your experience? Had anyone adapted the R160 diff to a Z? I have been working my way through HybridZ with out getting clear answers? Plus they are mostly focused on the big HP cars. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I always thought that dish soap removed the wax coat? Aren’t there Better ways to soften the water? Wouldn’t a good cleaner wax be better? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Matthew thanks for the info. I am really curious what Subaru that 2014 3.90 lsd came out of. I have been considering doing this switch over but only information that indicates the 3.90 only came in the 04-05 STI. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Which one did you get? What kind of issues have you run into? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Matthew are you looking at putting a Subaru R180 in your car? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Probably 120 - 140 HP at rear wheels. Just guessing due many variables Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It would great to get this requested information for others to use Thanks in advance Don Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here are some notes I saved from HybridZ forum: The LONGNOSE R200 is the diff that started to appear in the 260 2+2 and continued through the 280Z and 280ZX manual, and also came standard in all Z31 cars as well. Some 200SX’s also came with this diff, and probably others. This diff is strong enough for most Hybrid Z cars, and is by far the most popular swap. All of the 280Z and ZX’s and 200SX’s came with 2 pinion open diffs. These of course suffer the same weakness as the previous diffs. 87-89 300ZX Turbos came with clutch LSD’s (CLSD). The Nissan CLSDs are all 4 pinion, and the pinion gears are very strong in the LSD. There have been complaints that the CLSD would start to slip like an open diff with more than 300 lb/ft of torque. This seems to be a problem with the clutch pack design. In order to save money it appears that the clutch packs were skimped upon, using a thick solid washer to make up a large portion of the clutch pack thickness. The result is that the tabs on the few clutches that are actually in use will break under heavy drag racing use. Some (only some) Nissan Comp diffs have a better more complete clutch pack, but how exactly one determines which have more clutches and which have fewer has yet to be determined. There has been at least one case of a racer buying a LSD from Nissan Comp and getting the shoddy clutch pack setup. Some members here have gone to the trouble to make their own clutches to replace the spacer in the LSD, which should provide a lot more strength for high torque applications. There is also a viscous LSD (VLSD) which came in the 88 SS version of the 300ZXT. This is a rare diff indeed and the spline count of the LSD unit is different than the CLSD or open diffs, so if you buy one, best to be sure you get the original CV’s with the diff. The R200 is wider than the stock R180 diff that comes in the 240Z, but most people use the stock halfshafts when they swap this diff in. This can lead to the halfshafts bottoming out which can cause handling issues. For more info read the R200 Handling Issues link here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/index.html The solution here appears to be to use the CV joints from the 300ZX Turbo when installing into a 240Z. The parts list needed to bolt in a longnose R200 into a 240Z is as follows: 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200 2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z or 280ZX with R200 3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200 4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts FOR EARLY 70-71 Z's only, you need 5 -7. 5. Longer 72-78 driveshaft 6. Curved transverse link that sits right behind the diff from 72-78 Z 7. Flip front diff mount around on crossmember 5-7 are necessary because the early Z's had the diff mounted forward, and swapping to the R200 moves the diff rearward. Obviously if you buy a diff from a 280Z with an R200, it has everything you need except the mustache bar. If you buy the 300ZX diff, then you need the above pieces. Here are some more resources for the R200 swap: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm. http://www.zbarn.com sells a kit containing all the parts necessary to do the swap. It's part number is DT1299. Another option is to convert to CV shafts. If you do that, then you need the CVs from the Z31 300ZX Turbo along with an adapter, and you no longer need #4. Adapters are available from http://www.modern-motorsports.com.'>http://www.modern-motorsports.com. There is also a way to convert to 280ZX Turbo CV's as well. These aren't as strong as the later CV's. Modern Motorsports has those adapters as well. It is also possible to modify the rear transverse link to clear the finned cover of the 300ZXT rear cover. This requires a bit of fabrication, but is pretty easy and has the advantage of a larger sump and cooling fins to allow the diff to run cooler. If you do this then you don't need #3. The longnose R200 diff has been used for extremely powerful drag racing cars, all the way up to 9 second ¼ mile times, but it seems to be generally accepted that you can run 400 + lb/ft through them without any damage, except clutch damage in the case of the Z31T clutch LSD

Went with some local club members (ZCCW) to race slot cars. Started last (thanks to being punted off the track on the first lap) and finished in 1ST place. Too much fun. DP Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Steve is there a special trick load a video like that? Nice group of cars. Snowed here in Seattle area today so most cars are parked inside Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a complete 240 conversion to a R200 with a recently installed Mfactory LSD that I am not currently using. PM me if you are interested. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It would be helpful to know what the car is and what you currently have for diff and axles. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Zstory stainless sport header and full system with their JDM muffler Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Dave I have a new two pipe down tube for a stock manifold. Is it what you are looking for? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I currently have a Zstory sport system that was Dyno run in July. I also have a Dyno run on a previous system. Basically it was s stock manifold ceramic coated with a stock down tube to a 2 1/4 system, amid system glass pak resonator and a stainless magnaflow rear muffler Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

We get them here in the suburbs east of Seattle. This day a mother and two cubs decided to snack on our bird feeders. They come around two or three times a year. Woodinville WA Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ya sorry I didn’t know enough to comment so just passed it on Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/z-hubcap/6344713206.html Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It is my understanding that a ceramic coated stock manifold will perform nearly as good as a plain header when used on a stock Z. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile