7tooZ

Excellent sorry for the delay I thought I send a reply earlier. Please forward to Don Pappe 15930 NE198th ST Woodinville, Wa 98072 Dpappe@gmail.com Let me know where to send $$ Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

More great info. Let me know if you find them. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Great information. Do you still have the lower shift lever in your photo. I would like find one. Actually I would take both if you have them. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Still looking an 81-83 shift lever. Thx Looking for the lower one in this photo Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I would love to see photo of your shift lever. Always looking for a better solution. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yah there are different way to get it done. Here mine and did not have cut the console used An 83 close ratio. Looks just like my shortened 4 speed shifter did. PS that is in reverse Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thx for the advise Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The console mounting bracket is different on early series I & II cars vs later 72 - 73 cars. I can't tell from the photo which car you have but this vinyl is for the other. Your console should hide it! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Helping a member do the 5 speed conversion to a 71 Z. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If you have One can do it for you. This one was originally straight. I adapted it for close ratio 5 speed and my 71 console. If you have one send it to me and I'll help you with it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ok so pretty standard. Conversion. Here are some of my thoughts: First I am not familiar with the automatic console. The 5 speed lever is about 2.5" closer the engine than a 71 series II 4 speed. It is common for the shift lever to make contact with the stock 71 stock tunnel. Most just enlarge the front side of the hole about 1 - 1 1/2 inch. And then use a 260z inner shift boot and customizes the shift lever. That creates an issue with the seriesII console as the shift boot and lever do not have enough room to go into fifth gear without hitting the console. Trying to use a 72-73 console is difficult because the mounting points are slightly different Assumming the automatic console is the same as a manual console I would extend the tunnel opening and trim the edge of the console to avoid the lever hitting it. This requires that the transmission and lever be in place. There are several strings here that deal with the shift lever. Here is my version. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I can send one later today when I get home. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

My mid year 71 had the chain. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Joe What year is your body? If it is an early car this would be similar to converting from a early 4 speed to a later model 5 speed. What year is your transmission? Which shift lever do you have? Are you concerned that you may want to revert to an automatic? What are you going to us for the console? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

No buy the best that are comfortable with I have preferred the metal one fromZcardepot Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Let me throw out a layman's thoughts. Sounds like your pressure plate isn't releasing all of the way from the flywheel. When you push the pedal down and move the shift lever into gear do you get a grinding noise. These systems are pretty basic. Movement of the clutch petal causes the clutch master to move the slave cylinder. Etc. first make sure you use the collar that matches the clutch pressure plate you ordered. I.e. A 240 collar for a 240z pressure plate etc Bleed the master cylinder and slave to remove all the air. Turn the adjustment rod to make it longer. Put the car in gear and push the clutch down. Start the engine. Does the car try to move? Or are the wheels turning if on jack stands? If so adjust the rod longer. Keep going until you know the clutch has released. Try each gear before releasing the clutch. If everything is good let the clutch out slowly to see if the gears engage If so you are close. Do small adjustments to get the pedal to engage where you like it. If you run out of adjustment the you have a mechanical issue. Wrong pressure plate or wrong collar, broken bent incorrectly installed clutch fork, bad master or bad slave Sorry if I am repeatting what others have said. It how I would go about it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I am in total agreement. These cars perform well when stock and are in great condition. A brake conversion cost you time and money for so little extra performance. If you want to, because you can, to a well established maker and follow proven procedures. Wilwood makes new systems that work well. Best of luck Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That the way to do it. However you shouldn't need full choke to start it when cold.

Here is my version Made by Hella. I didn't like seeing it in the engine bay and didn't want to route everything to the glove box. Most people don't find/see it there. It powers headlights high and low, cooling fans., and drivinig lights Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a Zstory sport header on my 72 that is coming off now that my race sport version is here. $600shipped in US Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here is the location of the plug in a 72 240z harness Hope this helps

Got lots of thumbs up while parked on the street Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

New ZStory header arrived today. Thanks to Sean for all the help. Installation next week. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So I am thinking that you are putting water into the combustion chamber it is getting burned. So possible a small leak and only under pressure when cooling system is hot. Two things to try see if your local parts store has radiator pressure tester and check it while hot to see if it loses pressure Or Pull the thermostat and radiator cap and run it when there is no pressure on the cooling system. My thoughts from a backyard mechanic Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Can someone help me understand what the issue is here. Spent sometime reading back through this. Isn't white exhaust (sounds pretty heavy) caused by water in the combustion chamber???? If so I would think that if enough water is in the combustion chamber there would be other odd noises too? Possible crack in the head or block that introduces water once pressure builds in the cooling system? Thoughts?? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile