7tooZ

Awesome. Thanks for your help. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Rozziz, could you share the method you used to remove and replace the u joints?

Mike Thanks I tried earlier today and didn't really find anything either. Last time I did it was on the C1 Vette. Never tried to do the Z. I had Spicer joints put in some 15 years ago when I had the driveline made. Guess I'll try the old bench vice and socket method. I will check out your link first. Thanks again for the help Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Okay you seems you are focused on what I don't know? So a little personal history. Been working on early Zs for over 25 years. Last time I worried about U joints was 2002 when I had my current drive line made. I had Spicer joints installed then. Currently I am adding a R200 with Mfactory LSD. The R200 is from a 300z. I purchased a conversion yoke from Zcardepot. So help me understand what I don't know???? Cause you don't know what you don't know. Now back to my original topic. I haven't personally performed the replacement of a Spicer joint in over 20 years. So if you know a link or have good suggestions on the actual process I would appreciate it. If you are going to be negative as you normally can be then STOP as you said earlier. I promise I can do it without you. others here offer great suggestions a positive support. Thanks Don Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That's awesome. Thank you Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Zed head thanks but why do you jump on my posts and assume I don't know what I am talking about. My R200 requires a M10 bolt and has wider spacing than my stock 71 driveline My request for help was for installing new U joints. Thx don Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Need to remove the rear driveline yoke and replace with a R200 conversion yoke. Is there a topic for removing/replacing U joints?

Not my car, But interesting. $30K Canadian???? https://victoria.craigslist.ca/cto/6136561342.html

You can have your hatAchi radio converted to a non analog with 4 speaker outputs aux input and blue tooth. It will remain stock looking and auto seek tuner still operable. I had a Corvette GM wonder bar converted in January and my series I radio is scheduled to be completed June 1. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a really. Nice 73 harness with the same connectors Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Installed a 5 speed today. A 280zx close ratio. thanks to my wife for manning the floor jack. Turned the flywheel, new clutch, seals and pilot beating. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Did you set the gap on the points? Some use a dwell meter. Do you know how to do these. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Our local club is doing s dyno day at Carburetor Connection in Kirkland WA on June 10. We have room for more pulls if interested let me know and we can add you to the list. cost $85 and you will get 2 to 3 pulls. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Mike I think you could be right. My experience is to the 70 - 71 years. I use the series I & II terminology so others know the general time period of the build date. Many of us accept that parts change from one car to the next. Keeps me always curious. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Ps I envy your collection

I have a box of parts whAt part do you need. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

See pictures above. antenna out of a 69/70 240z Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So I am used to my series I 4 speed with a shortened shift lever. Tuesday I drove a friends 73 with the this same transmission and a shortened lever. Geez what a difference. Quick positive and so much better. Seems like it is worth making the swap just for that improvement. Guess things got better in those 13 years. Time to get it done Thx for the input Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I am trying to buy this working antenna from a series I car. How much should I pay? 750? Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

This is an original working one from my July 71 Z Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a stock exhaust manifold that I had ceramic coated and I have used the metal gasket in your photos for years with good success. My stock down pipe extended above the flange and fits into the manifold. Make sure these aren't broken. I have always retighted the three bolts after heat cycled the motor several times Good luck Ps never needed the gasket maker Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thx Zed. I have abandon this idea. Seem like to much for so little gain. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

This particular lever seems to have sufficient space. I'm still waffling whether to give it a try. Keep the suggestions coming Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks guys for confirming I am not a total loonie. How ever in discussing this my local friends all agreed it would shorten the the throw. The problem arises in actual drilling the new pivot points in all three pieces. Getting it parallel to the original pivot point seems paramount. Probably more trouble than it's worth. I am open to your thoughts. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hummm guess it won't work because if I drill holes and raise the lever the lever moves out of the transmission mechanism. Anyone see a reason NOT to try it? I Can always move the pin back to the original position. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ops. Was I wrong because that make no sense to me. The bottom of the lever has to stay static to even work. I may stupid about this but it seems to that the fulcrum has to move to gain movement on one end and shorten on the other. Drilling thru both and moving the pin higher makes more movement to the shift mechanism in the trans. Right? If that works then shorting the lever is still an option which is what I did on my series I trans. Love the input to help me get the thinking right. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile