7tooZ

That is what I call a series 1 style console. If you add a 5 speed you will have to make some changes to the metal in the trans tunnel and on the front edge of the shifter hole where the boot attaches the the console. Some people also add new bends to the shift lever. There a few threads here with photos of different ways to accomplish it.

I had a NOS two tube to one. After ceramic coating the stock manifold I installed both on the car that already had the Zstory resonator and the JDM style muffler installed. The two systems were off by about 2-3 “. I took a selection of V-clamps and the car to a local shop. They used my parts and bridged the gap. They did an excellent job with really clean welding. I then dropped the down pipe and had it coated to match the polish stainless exhaust. Sat, Jan 11, 2020, 12:46 AM.pdf

No stupidity there. I went through a similar process with Zstory exhaust system. First one came within 3/4 “ of the SU soft hose. I didn’t trust 500 degree that close even with a shield. The second one contacted the tension rod mount just sitting much less when the engine torqued. My solution was to go back to a stock manifold, had it ceramic coated along with the two tube down pipe. I am very happy with that and looks as good as the polished stainless exhaust. Just another option that worked for me.

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I ran 195/70x14 Pirelli tire for many years on 14X7 slotted wheel without issues on My lowered 71. Speedo was pretty accurate back then. Now we know with GPS that they probably weren’t. Do not know the offset of those wheels that were a dealer installed item. Currently I am running 205/60x15 on 15x7 VTO on the same setup. MPH on slightly high at the speedo. also an Close ratio 5 spd and 3.90 LSD Which takes me back to what @zedhead said go with what looks good to you.

Yes there is a drain plug in center of the tank.

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Try Patcons idea. Fresh fuel is always better Couple of other things you can do Drain the tank, I use 5 gal buckets 3 at the most. That will give you a good idea what might be in the tank. take that $4 filter and cut it open to see what’s inside. You can usually see what settles after a while.

Sounds like you are pushing the fuel in the fuel rail back into the filter. My experience is that a mechanical pump doesn’t fill a stock filter completely if the choke is not moving nozzle that may make it harder to start when cold it shouldn’t affect the warm idle or drive ability. is the hose leaking at all?

Before you decide to open up the carbs you may want to check for leaks around the balance tube, intake manifolds, and the carbs by spraying carb cleaner/starting fluid around them. Listen for idle changes of a warm engine. I just spent weeks looking for a lean idle on my back carb until I found a missing cap on the side of the carb. When I called Ztherapy (purchased in 2001) Steve Explained that a back fire can cause the butterfly shaft seal to blow out. But, Any kind of a leak will cause idle and run issues. Cheap and easy check to do. if you don’t find anything there then go back to basics. Reset mixture at 2 1/2 turn (note what they were set at) and see if it will start and idle. Disconnect choke gables. Check that the nozzles are returning all of the way. Don’t give up. Lots of great help here.

Thank you great information. I would love to get my hands on one if just to try to replicate it. Keep me in mind it one shows up.

Yes can they be purchased anywhere.

get 3m in black and get 3m all purpose adhesive remover for clean up? I installed dry tape into position and the do a 3rd or a half section at a time.

I recently saw a Z with what I think was a “European Air Dam”. I am curious if anyone has experience running one? Does anyone other than whitehead offer a similar style.

The local club has most of it activity on FB Z car Club of Washington members. Hope we meet up sometime.

Gorgeous Are keeping a log or hours invested?

Is it running now? Sounds like you are using the stock configuration of points. So you are using the mark that is on the farthest to the left (passenger side of the car). There are two points of adjustment on the distributor. The 10 mm on the firewall side of the distributor (photo below). the other is on the opposite side closest to the front cover and is an 8 mm. Both give you some adjustment that will affect the timing. Remember rotating the distributor only changes the timing not TDC. I assume TDC is a point half way between when the piston stops rising and when it starts to fall. Mark each and then split the difference. Mark your balancer or move the pointer if you can. My timing is currently set at 6 degree BTDC

My 71 had two adjustment screws that you can access from the front of the car.

I am still undecided. I guess I just haven’t hit on one that I think will add anything to my eye. I just spent a day with ZCCW doing 450 miles on the back roads of Mt Rainier with TerrapinZ’s 70 (with his newly repair and new paint) behind me and these car are beautiful. Don’t want to muck it up or add any extra holes.

I checked that the optical pickup on the Crane is right near the number one wire on the distributor cap, and have played with moving it a bit. It'll run horrible if I move it forwards or backwards, so I think it's correctly placed. Matt when you move the Crane optical pickup did you reset your timing? I think the oil is on the thick side. I use Mystery Oil for a setup almost identical to yours. I always start a tune up with a valve adjustment, and new plugs. when you says the coil is hot, is it like to hot to hold your hand on?

Here a calculator that can help you see how each veritable can effect the actual speed of the car. Knowing your transmission gear ratios and final drive ratio is imperative. By hanging tire height you can see the difference in final speed. https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php

I just did the same. Rebuilt an old Nikki with parts from a new 510 Nikki. Pretty simple after you do the first one. Had a new GMB and opened it up. The check valves looked different so didn’t use them.

One of they last place you want to save a dollar. I have been there and tried it. It didn’t take long to show a weakness.

@Dave WM I had a similar type issue a few years ago. Looked for it for for a long time and that my passenger side tension rod was just loose enough to move only under same type of load. It was the two bolts holding it to the lower control bar. They were tight but not enough to keep it from a slight movement and a sound similar to what you described. Hope this helps.