7tooZ

Good recommendations from some smart experienced people.

Consider adding a resonator if you do. Some do not like the drone in their system.

Received a package today with a couple gems inside. For the last month or so I have been chasing a lean condition just off idle on my 240 motor. Cold it was hard to start even while being choked, a condition I have not experienced since purchasing my Ztherapy carbs in early 2001. Trying all of the normal problem solving I finally did the “starting fluid test” and found that when I it sprayed on the rear side of the back carb the idle was effected. Closer examination I discover the shinny silver cap over the throttle shaft was missing and covering the hole definitely changed the idle. Engine ran good at 2500+ RPM. Steve at ZT called me back and we discussed the issues and he advised me the throttle shaft seal was probably blown out. (A backfire can do that). He offered check the carbs if I would send them to him. That day I UPS them off to him and in less that two weeks I received a package back. My 20 year ZT old carbs look brand new and based on the cost of a ZT rebuild kit the price was a steal. They are one of those companies that you can’t say enough good thing about. THANK YOU STEVE .

@montana z Scot can send you the turn signal switch portion that will easily plug in to test to see if that is where the problem is. actually I could send the hazard switch also. what’s your address don

here is the switch here is the inside

Yes usually the problem is inside of the switch. I can send you photos if you want.

Are you going to eat us see it?

That is what I call a series 1 style console. If you add a 5 speed you will have to make some changes to the metal in the trans tunnel and on the front edge of the shifter hole where the boot attaches the the console. Some people also add new bends to the shift lever. There a few threads here with photos of different ways to accomplish it.

I had a NOS two tube to one. After ceramic coating the stock manifold I installed both on the car that already had the Zstory resonator and the JDM style muffler installed. The two systems were off by about 2-3 “. I took a selection of V-clamps and the car to a local shop. They used my parts and bridged the gap. They did an excellent job with really clean welding. I then dropped the down pipe and had it coated to match the polish stainless exhaust. Sat, Jan 11, 2020, 12:46 AM.pdf

No stupidity there. I went through a similar process with Zstory exhaust system. First one came within 3/4 “ of the SU soft hose. I didn’t trust 500 degree that close even with a shield. The second one contacted the tension rod mount just sitting much less when the engine torqued. My solution was to go back to a stock manifold, had it ceramic coated along with the two tube down pipe. I am very happy with that and looks as good as the polished stainless exhaust. Just another option that worked for me.

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I ran 195/70x14 Pirelli tire for many years on 14X7 slotted wheel without issues on My lowered 71. Speedo was pretty accurate back then. Now we know with GPS that they probably weren’t. Do not know the offset of those wheels that were a dealer installed item. Currently I am running 205/60x15 on 15x7 VTO on the same setup. MPH on slightly high at the speedo. also an Close ratio 5 spd and 3.90 LSD Which takes me back to what @zedhead said go with what looks good to you.

Yes there is a drain plug in center of the tank.

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Try Patcons idea. Fresh fuel is always better Couple of other things you can do Drain the tank, I use 5 gal buckets 3 at the most. That will give you a good idea what might be in the tank. take that $4 filter and cut it open to see what’s inside. You can usually see what settles after a while.

Sounds like you are pushing the fuel in the fuel rail back into the filter. My experience is that a mechanical pump doesn’t fill a stock filter completely if the choke is not moving nozzle that may make it harder to start when cold it shouldn’t affect the warm idle or drive ability. is the hose leaking at all?

Before you decide to open up the carbs you may want to check for leaks around the balance tube, intake manifolds, and the carbs by spraying carb cleaner/starting fluid around them. Listen for idle changes of a warm engine. I just spent weeks looking for a lean idle on my back carb until I found a missing cap on the side of the carb. When I called Ztherapy (purchased in 2001) Steve Explained that a back fire can cause the butterfly shaft seal to blow out. But, Any kind of a leak will cause idle and run issues. Cheap and easy check to do. if you don’t find anything there then go back to basics. Reset mixture at 2 1/2 turn (note what they were set at) and see if it will start and idle. Disconnect choke gables. Check that the nozzles are returning all of the way. Don’t give up. Lots of great help here.

Thank you great information. I would love to get my hands on one if just to try to replicate it. Keep me in mind it one shows up.

Yes can they be purchased anywhere.

get 3m in black and get 3m all purpose adhesive remover for clean up? I installed dry tape into position and the do a 3rd or a half section at a time.

I recently saw a Z with what I think was a “European Air Dam”. I am curious if anyone has experience running one? Does anyone other than whitehead offer a similar style.