7tooZ
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Everything posted by 7tooZ
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Greetings From The Great Pacific Northwet
7tooZ replied to Racer X's topic in Introductions and Rides
The local club has most of it activity on FB Z car Club of Washington members. Hope we meet up sometime. -
Gorgeous Are keeping a log or hours invested?
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Question re: Setting Timing on L24 ('72 240Z)
7tooZ replied to Jughead's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Is it running now? Sounds like you are using the stock configuration of points. So you are using the mark that is on the farthest to the left (passenger side of the car). There are two points of adjustment on the distributor. The 10 mm on the firewall side of the distributor (photo below). the other is on the opposite side closest to the front cover and is an 8 mm. Both give you some adjustment that will affect the timing. Remember rotating the distributor only changes the timing not TDC. I assume TDC is a point half way between when the piston stops rising and when it starts to fall. Mark each and then split the difference. Mark your balancer or move the pointer if you can. My timing is currently set at 6 degree BTDC
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My 71 had two adjustment screws that you can access from the front of the car.
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I am still undecided. I guess I just haven’t hit on one that I think will add anything to my eye. I just spent a day with ZCCW doing 450 miles on the back roads of Mt Rainier with TerrapinZ’s 70 (with his newly repair and new paint) behind me and these car are beautiful. Don’t want to muck it up or add any extra holes.
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I checked that the optical pickup on the Crane is right near the number one wire on the distributor cap, and have played with moving it a bit. It'll run horrible if I move it forwards or backwards, so I think it's correctly placed. Matt when you move the Crane optical pickup did you reset your timing? I think the oil is on the thick side. I use Mystery Oil for a setup almost identical to yours. I always start a tune up with a valve adjustment, and new plugs. when you says the coil is hot, is it like to hot to hold your hand on?
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Here a calculator that can help you see how each veritable can effect the actual speed of the car. Knowing your transmission gear ratios and final drive ratio is imperative. By hanging tire height you can see the difference in final speed. https://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php
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Weakness Revealed in the GMB and Spectra Mechanic Fuel pumps
7tooZ replied to zKars's topic in SU Carb Technical Articles
I just did the same. Rebuilt an old Nikki with parts from a new 510 Nikki. Pretty simple after you do the first one. Had a new GMB and opened it up. The check valves looked different so didn’t use them. -
One of they last place you want to save a dollar. I have been there and tried it. It didn’t take long to show a weakness.
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@Dave WM I had a similar type issue a few years ago. Looked for it for for a long time and that my passenger side tension rod was just loose enough to move only under same type of load. It was the two bolts holding it to the lower control bar. They were tight but not enough to keep it from a slight movement and a sound similar to what you described. Hope this helps.
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Can thr 350 mm one be acquired anywhere?
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My typo err. I meant the Z store (MSA) thanks for your information
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Do you know the diameters of those wheels? I have used a 20 year old Momo that I like for size and grip but would like to find something that is more respectful to the early Z. The original is restored and tucked away for another day. I see Zstory has replicas
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@HS30-H what can you tell about that steering wheel?
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I did all my bulbs in the car except headlamps. Only needed the new flasher for the turn signals. None for the flashers.
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I have this pump that seems work the way it’s suppose to. But this crack bothers me. is there any one who has tried to replace the lever? The manual implies it can be
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You can get the bushings a Z car Source https://zcarsource.com/shifter-bushing-240z-70-71-new do not buy the metal ones on EBay you will hate the feeling . Be careful when you tighten the nut the chrome on on the shifter will mar easily.. the lever should be straight not dog legged. Let me know if you need photos
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I think I have one I can send you? what year was your can manufactured?
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@zKars Do you know if the check valves from the Nikki 510 pump are the same as the Nikki 240 pump? I noticed in the FSM that specified PSI for the L20 is different than the L16. Is it the Check Value that control that? Anyone?
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Here is the link I saw recently https://youtu.be/-t6geNGbEXM
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@zKars so I read rebuild post without the missing photos and have gather up the following: a used Kyosan Denki A new Nikki for a 510 a new GMB 550-8040 the current Spectra that’s on the car (about a month old) and a used 240 Nikki arriving in a couple days Looking for your suggestions on how to start to get a good combination? is the a way to bunch test each before opening them up?
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I saw a video someone sent me discussing this same “fix”. Looks like a possibility if rebuilding the Spectra with parts from a New GMB and a new 510 Nikki pump don’t solve the problem. Currently waiting for them to arrive. We don’t have any high altitude drive scheduled anytime soon.
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Do any of you experience with the Delphi or carter version fuel pumps?
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So mine was running awesome until I was near the 5000" foot mark and then it just ran out of gas at the carbs. When it did start it ran fine both times. It feels like it is the mix of hot motor bay (engine temp appeared fine on the block sensor) and the radiator. Both electric fans were running and my speed was pushing hard on 15, 25, and 35 MPH curved for about 3 miles just prior. Of course it would be easy to adjust in a half turn (richer) in on those days. Thoughts anybody? Electric pumps? @zKars If the fuel pump you replaced in the last 30 days is a Spectra or GMB brand, then your issue lies there. Where do your get a manual pump that is not one of those two?
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It is Spectra 241 87019 interesting because the name was covered by a white stick on label.
