7tooZ

Can you add some photos. I have a collection of (nibs) knobs and might have what you need.

Interesting. Now it is beginning to come back. Last dyno run we did as a club I was running lean on WOT and someone said to try these. when we made it richer at WOT it was to rich at low speeds. Maybe I will wait till we can get to the dyno again and run both. thanks

Today I found a set of SB needles on my work bench that I had forgotten I ordered. Now I am trying decide Why? Is anyone currently running these needles in their 240?

We all love photos. Time to get some posted up.

Hey love your story. I have question about your engine and the Zstory header in your pictures. Are you planning on running SUs?

Hey some good feed back. As mentioned earlier I didn’t think you would get any positive response to the down draft dual Weber idea. As I said earlier Keep the carbs you have if you feel like they working okay. Drive that car and learn it idiosyncrasies and study the knowledge of those here here are familiar with them. The easy route is to immediately go to the Ztherapy route. I will be interested in your updates on the gas tank refurbish. Good luck any enjoy the process

My defroster wires are hidden in the interior panel. I know it works but would have to remove the panel to get to it. Maybe someone up in the NE where it gets cold could fire up theirs and measure it. I am guessing that it is slightly less than 12v. Our local car club is doing a Bday, Graduation, and food bank drive today if I get time I'll drop the panel. Last week we had 100 cars ( not all Zs) participate and maintained the distance as no one gets out of the cars. You could post up a new question specific to this issue but be sure to note it is an early 240. Some late modeled have relays.

Is this what it looks like. If so it connects to the door switch which is a black wire as in @terrapin Z photo. some of those door switch’s have three wires. The third one is for a step light that I don’t think is on any US model.

The wire question I will have to move my car to get in that side to look for it. As far as identifying Zs, I think the build date is the most useful but is still not definitive in all situations. There lots of members here who have a ton of knowledge on the really early cars and the Japanese versions. Keep in mind that changes were introduced at no specific time of manufacture and it seems parts may have been just what happen to be in the parts bin that day. if it stops raining I’ll get the Z out and look for it.

I feel your frustration with wiring issue. It has been a while since I have had my Jul 71 dash out, but I believe there were two 3 prong horizontal plugs in the area of the climate control area of the console. One for the radio and one for the defroster switch. Here is a photo of mine (A male plug) which has a blue (L), RB, & B that connects to the female defroster switch. The other one above it in the photo is a 3 wire plug with only 2 wires that I have marked a connecting to the Automatic trans console. There are others such as the 4 way flasher. The other thing that causes confusion is the “Series” Terminology is a loose description and doesn’t alway mean the same thing to everyone plus Nissan introduced changes at different times and factories. There have been many discussions and arguments about what went into different cars at different times. just trying to help. wish I could be of better assistance.

Here is the VTO wheel that BRE sells. VTO sells a gray spoked wheel also and some smaller sizes. Mine are 15”

Ed i apologize but let try to clarify what I think you are doing: Please let me know where I am wrong. The wire harness from the defroster glass is fro a 70-71 build date correct? The dash harness is from a 70-71 build date also correct? The center console fuse cover is from a 72 build date car. correct? Does it look like this? Does the switch look like this If the above is correct here is the connector to look for here's where it should be a wider shot Or can you send a photo of you forward photos? 72 fuse cover front.html

No Nope I don’t think you are wrong. It’s probably me. But the there is the old series1 2 3 or 4 what, when , this that etc...besides you know I only pretend to know anything about the early build date cars build between 69 and 72. They fit in my old brain. if the pic you show of the fuse cover is a “series 2” the my moneys on you heres my diagram above Edit added my Jul 71 did not have those relays but my Aug 72 might have and they are sitting in box somewhere in storage.

I must have missed something here. I think he said he has a 71 series 1??? For me that means he has a rocker switch mounted in the console behind the choke plate and it has a black color rocker. The 71 series 2??? is basically the same except the rocker color is yellow and lite. Both are wired the same. No relays. the a switch (Series 2) has three wires B, R and GR and connects to plug with Blue (L), a RB, and a B. the L comes from the dash and has a fuse holder, RB & B go the rear hatch harness then connect to the hatch glass. Did I miss something? Wouldn't be the first time. Here is what thinks is a Series 2 defroster switch. If he has power to both sides of the switch in the on position and power at the glass and good ground then my guess is there is a break in the heat element.

Did you disconnect the choke cable?

Is that butterfly gap about what the full choke position opens them to? doesnt full choke drop the nozzle and open the butterfly?

That choke cable doesn’t look right here’s mine like right7 Is your nozzle all the way up

Make sure you check the bushing fits on the transmission before putting it in the crank.

More thoughts. Are the butterfly’s closed all the way?

We hen you say “starve” how are you doing that. so tell us what you did. Ie.. just replaced the carb, new spacer seals. What linkage did you unhook.? Big vacuum leaks will cause increased idle but not 4000 rpm try disconnection the throttle linkage from the carbs and see if will start

I think the later 73 went to a three wire connector to the tach.

@grannyknot were you running a stock distributor and ignition system? The earlier Z wire diagram would indicate that with the ignition key is in the run position there would be no power to the POS side of the coil. After market ignitions like Pertonix might change that. Just a thought.

Interesting problem. Maybe we should get more information? which car do you have? Stock? where did you get the carbs? Did it run well before? I’ll assume not if you are upgrading the carbs. Basically what’s the history of the car?

Joined 84 members of our local car club on “Celebrate” Cruise for one wedding and five birthdays plus a food bank donation .here is a short version. Checkout the “Bird” in front of me, it’s an original survivor and his second car is a GTR. Then look for the red 570 Ferrari at the end. Yesterday she was driving her other car. A Mclaren. to much fun for a charity driv IMG_0191.MOV IMG_0191.MOV

My 71 came with Weber’s when I bought it. It always smelled bad and loaded up all the time. The intake manifolds were part of the problem letting fuel build up in the manifold. I finally bought a set of ZTherapy SUs and have never regretted it. I remember hearing that the Weber’s were put on by shops to solve the tuning problem. Band aid solution.