7tooZ

Sold. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yes Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

First ask the seller. He might tell you. Remove the carpet floor mat and look in the area under the petals and around floor plugs. Slide seats as far forward as possible and check the floor lowest spot on ground of the tool storage box. Have a small Led light with you. Look under the battery support put your there and feel for loose rough surfaces. Look for bubbling paint along fender, the dogleg in front of the fender and along the panel under the doors then the area on lower front fender by the doors. Check engine bay along the frMe rail where the wire harness lays. I would be shocked if you don’t find some. Check the panel under the hatch corners just above the license plate. Not knowing your ability to repair I would think about your plans long term. How much can you do yourself. Will you be happy driving it and repairing it the way it is. How funds can you devote to it. Add another 4-5k and you could buy a pretty nice 72-73 driver. Shout out the the members there maybe one that can help you look at it. If it is relatively rust free it won’t last long. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I like this car but needs a good inspection for rust: floors, behind seats, under battery, fender edges, etc. Cracking paint may mean body filler. I would pay 7200 if minimal rust knowing I would spend $15-$20K on body and paint and $2 - $5K on interior.

Good time to check the driveline U joints, on a Series 1 trans you can remove the shift lever without removing the console, check the shift lever bushings once trans is out, replace or have flywheel, if you can replace the pilot bearing (Orielly may loan you puller) if you replace it test the new one on the trans before installing, loosen fill plug on trans before removing from car, replace trans fluid (I like Redline), replace trans rear seal and look for other leaks, throw out bearing, pressure plate, trans rear mount, use a clutch disk locating pin. Check engine rear seal for leaks. Make sure trans is in gear when putting it back in. Sorry if these were obvious. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have never tried the helicoil system I have always drilled out the stud and tapped the hole. Is there a benefit to the insert? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

You know this has a salvage title? And has identical car in Seattle. ?????? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile And

Congratulations on your ownership. I really like that your know what you want and are not deterred by the process to do it. You can determine the diff gear ratio turning the wheel and counting the turns of the drive shaft. Some photos of the back of the diff would help to determine which version you have. You will find lots of help and advise here. Transmission and Rear End Gear Ratios.pdf

Do you need the whole switch or just parts. I came send some parts it you cover shipping. Don 2063006148 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a like new R200 with professionally installed Mfactory LSD. Less than 1000 miles excellent working order. $2000 invested All necessary mounting hardware to a Z available for purchase if needed

Are sure you have the routed correctly my spare is the same length.

Great I’ll dig mine up. I think I know right it is. Will let you know. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Blue drum looks an air cleaner piece Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Richard I am pretty sure I have an extra correct cable and lever for a 71. Can you measure the length of yours. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have had the spring out of one and it did not cause any thing difficult to do. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Not sure what question really is, but al 2+2s have a rear seats. Of course that changes numerous other parts. All other only have front seats. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

On my carbs it is the vacuum source the connects to the distributor for vacuum advance. I can send pictures if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have one sitting waiting to be installed but have completed it yet. My understanding is you basically illuminate the amp gauge by connecting the two wires then pickup a 12v power wire to operate the voltage gauge. Plus there is warning light that needs to be connected. I’ll search the form as soon as I can. Got to believe it has been well covered here. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If you go to the trouble to remove the amp meter you should consider changing to a 280 volt meter. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Jeff. My recommendation is do what you enjoy. If making it look pretty feels good then enjoy the process. There is very little real damage you can do. Broken studs can be removed. If money or time is an issue then think twice for the reasons above. Personally I have removed the intakes about ten times for one reason or another and only broke one stud I had to drill out. That cost me a nice new drill bit and a tap but I learned not to be scared of the process. Personally I love the challenge and then the reward of having made the improvements. Hey go for it there are lots of people here to help with any problems that come up. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I believe its McMaster-Carr. I have used different versions of theirs on several cars. Looks good when in. Part# 1120-A333 is is about the the right size. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks for the information zkars & namerow. I should know this. I converted my 71 to the later location some 20 years ago. My current 72 has an R200 that I am taking out and opting for a lower diff gear. So the current 72-78 mount should work. Think I’ll order one to see. Changing to a Subaru R180. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Does anyone know the difference in the front differential mount for the prior to July 71 and after July 71? Is R200 different from R180?

I have had the light come on (same as the handle brake light on my early 71) when the brake fluid was low enough to need to be filled and bled. I am not sure why but I have always believed that meant the brake system needs attention. Also it seems to have an brightness intensity as it progressively got worse. Or maybe it happened while driver was “Impaired”. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hope this isn't repetitious but here is some info on choke knobs Choke Knobs.pdf