7tooZ

You should have a red light on the black box that tells you when the charge is sent. This greatly affect your timing. I recommend that you get the engine to TDC. Make sure you check it to make sure you have the piston right. Hopefully the timing Mark is now at zero. then make sure the rotor at the number one wire. Everything should be ready. Then move the crane pick until it lights. Now rotate the engine one more time to make sure the light comes on just as the rotor is coming on the number 1. Here is a link to the directions. https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/xr700 instructions.pdf On mine I start at 7 degree BTDC and adjust from there checking vacuum advance and idle. Adjust the valve, check the plug gap and then on the the carbs. good luck. I cane provide photos if needed

What did you mean when you said “electronic Ignition “. What is it and did you install it?

Not mine but maybe worth checking them out if you need some https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/d/tacoma-datsun-240z-red-seats/7134819249.html html

I have run my SUs without a tube attached for 15+ years. Do not plug them.

For sure get the windshield and hatch rubber directly from Nissan. You will pay more but happy in the long run.

It would be helpful if you would provide a history of work completed since last in working order. Did you replace your clutch?

Speaking of door panels, I am going to try to salvage the ones I have, but I saw the $419 set on ZCarDepot yesterday. Pricey. Has anyone had experience with those? I have a set of Zcar Depot panels and was very impressed. One of the better thing I purchase for this car. PM me if you want more information

"What I discovered after looking on their website is that they show the parts available but when you call they tell you otherwise. " I have had good luck with the local dealer. But I have to give them the part number because their current system does not look up the part number for older cars.

Can’t answer question but a 100 is so cheap you should bye able to get all or most back if you decide you don’t like them.

Back when I first got my first Z it had an issue with a few tears and broken down bolsters. I took it to a shop who removed the covers and did small repairs plus built up the bolsters. Made a big difference. It maybe another option for you. love the White/red colors don

Finally got back to your posts. I am interested in seeing how you handle how the header fits with your SU’s. I had to abandon mine after seeing how close the header fit to the hose on the bottom of the rear SU..

I have the MSA front and rear sway bar coupled with Tokico lowering springs along Ilumina shocks. I run my shocks on the softest setting. I think it rides good but does not like pot holes or speed bumps.

Shoot me your address and I will get them in the mail.

I would not buy carbs on eBay or any other Unknown source

Ha, love the funny guys. @Dferr17 here is a shot of some of the knobs I have. I also have some of the chrome parts too.

Can you add some photos. I have a collection of (nibs) knobs and might have what you need.

Interesting. Now it is beginning to come back. Last dyno run we did as a club I was running lean on WOT and someone said to try these. when we made it richer at WOT it was to rich at low speeds. Maybe I will wait till we can get to the dyno again and run both. thanks

Today I found a set of SB needles on my work bench that I had forgotten I ordered. Now I am trying decide Why? Is anyone currently running these needles in their 240?

We all love photos. Time to get some posted up.

Hey love your story. I have question about your engine and the Zstory header in your pictures. Are you planning on running SUs?

Hey some good feed back. As mentioned earlier I didn’t think you would get any positive response to the down draft dual Weber idea. As I said earlier Keep the carbs you have if you feel like they working okay. Drive that car and learn it idiosyncrasies and study the knowledge of those here here are familiar with them. The easy route is to immediately go to the Ztherapy route. I will be interested in your updates on the gas tank refurbish. Good luck any enjoy the process

My defroster wires are hidden in the interior panel. I know it works but would have to remove the panel to get to it. Maybe someone up in the NE where it gets cold could fire up theirs and measure it. I am guessing that it is slightly less than 12v. Our local car club is doing a Bday, Graduation, and food bank drive today if I get time I'll drop the panel. Last week we had 100 cars ( not all Zs) participate and maintained the distance as no one gets out of the cars. You could post up a new question specific to this issue but be sure to note it is an early 240. Some late modeled have relays.

Is this what it looks like. If so it connects to the door switch which is a black wire as in @terrapin Z photo. some of those door switch’s have three wires. The third one is for a step light that I don’t think is on any US model.

The wire question I will have to move my car to get in that side to look for it. As far as identifying Zs, I think the build date is the most useful but is still not definitive in all situations. There lots of members here who have a ton of knowledge on the really early cars and the Japanese versions. Keep in mind that changes were introduced at no specific time of manufacture and it seems parts may have been just what happen to be in the parts bin that day. if it stops raining I’ll get the Z out and look for it.

I feel your frustration with wiring issue. It has been a while since I have had my Jul 71 dash out, but I believe there were two 3 prong horizontal plugs in the area of the climate control area of the console. One for the radio and one for the defroster switch. Here is a photo of mine (A male plug) which has a blue (L), RB, & B that connects to the female defroster switch. The other one above it in the photo is a 3 wire plug with only 2 wires that I have marked a connecting to the Automatic trans console. There are others such as the 4 way flasher. The other thing that causes confusion is the “Series” Terminology is a loose description and doesn’t alway mean the same thing to everyone plus Nissan introduced changes at different times and factories. There have been many discussions and arguments about what went into different cars at different times. just trying to help. wish I could be of better assistance.