Zpat

I had the exact same problem when I installed a new performance clutch. I left the original thrust bearing in place and after installing the new clutch I could not get it to engage. I contacted the clutch manufacturer and they provided a new significantly taller bearing. Once I installed the taller unit, the clutch would engage and it just required a little adjustment at the slave cylinder. Works perfectly. See picture of bearings side by side. Shorter bearing would not reach the pressure plate... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If all else does not work, go to Z Car Source website, they sell rebuilt long blocks. I am in the process of installing a rebuilt L24 from Z Car in my '72. Will let you know what I think once I get further into my build... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks all, sounds like just twist, turn, shove. If not correct, repeat until correct. Just wanted some direction as a chill went down my back when I saw sweatybettys first picture when the tang was at 1:00, identical to mine and hearing his earlier problems. I'm sure I will come back to the well if I have any problems. Happy motoring... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

When I line up the gear shaft and pump alignment marks and insert the shaft and pump into the cover housing, the tang comes out at the 1:00 position. I am going to try the pump turn method siteunseen provided from the Tom Monroe book but I was curious if sweatybetty used that method or something else to get his to reset to the 11:30 position. It appears I need to shift/turn something to come out at 11:30... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sorry to be so late to this party but this thread is very relevant as I recently pulled my distributor on my '72 240 and my oil pump shafts tang is in the exact 1:00 position as your original picture even though by all measurements I am at TDC (pistons at top, cam gear v notch lining up with thrust plate dash, cam lobes where they should be etc). I believe the gear oil pump shaft moved/slipped when I pulled my distributer. Could you give a quick outline of how you moved the tang back to the 11:30 position? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Blodi, I am also doing a triple weber upgrade and was just researching what to do with the 'Flow Control Valve' and its three connections (fresh air, crankcase ventilation and fuel vapor tank) as well. Also, how did you handle the larger crankcase hose connection that feeds both the Flow Control Valve and larger crankcase ventilation control valve up connection on the balance tube which goes away with the old carburetor setup? Could you let me know your solution and how it works? I greatly appreciate any thoughts. Thanks....Zpat Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just wanted to bring this thread to a successful close. Finally had a chance to go on a test drive and yes it was the tires. Perfect clearance with both small tires up front and it did appear the back wheel hub was thicker than the front making the problem worse. I am located just outside of Austin in the Lakeway area. I cannot thank everyone enough for helping, this blog is the best, just goes to show good people drive Z's. I am reliving my youth, as I am sure many of you are as well, it was the car I drove in my 20's but rust and milage caught up with my first one when I did not have the money to repair. Here is my new one that I am going to slowly bring back to its original, if not better, state. Here's to hoping all your future repairs and restorations are successful. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ok, so now I must confess, and I do this with great humility that I discovered the problem while sitting next to the car with the tires off making measurements and thinking what did I do wrong. Before I tell you please understand I have only owned the car for a few months and had no knowledge of how it was set up. So, I am sitting just staring into the distance as one will when tired of trying to solve a problem when my gaze falls upon the tires. Yes, the tires, they are different sizes!!! One is 185 (obviously ment for the front) and one is 205 (back). I'm sure I had the 205 on the front when I went for my test drive and thus, wheel rub. In my defense they are black wall tires and so it is not that obvious but non the less I ask that you not laugh directly in my presence...Oh, and don't let this stop you from helping me in the future.... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Nope, scratch the springs ends being out of place, they are perfectly seated. Now I'm thinking maybe the spring is just tired and has lost some compression which the new shock brought out. Would new springs be a good gamble? See pic of wheel assembly less the tire. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just left an alignment shop (not in the Z) and spoke with the manager. When I told him it was a 240 and explained the problem he said "with McPherson struts you have to be sure and seat the spring ends directly in the notches on the top and bottom retainers or the spring will not fully extend". I remember looking at the spring when I was taking off the compression tool and thinking they were close but not exactly in place. Whats your opinion, could my spring ends being out of place create my problem. If so I will check, if not I will send pictures... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Guys, thanks for replying so quickly. I believe everything is back as it was before. No left over parts, all bolts back in place and tight. I have been laying under the car looking for anything bent or out of place but it all looks good. I only replaced the shock all other suspension parts remained as before. I know the strut ball bearing bushing is in place and I put the spring back into its bottom and top retainers correctly (I think). Should I pull the strut and look for anything specific or is it most likely something outside of the strut? Should my next stop be an alignment shop? Thanks again... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Could use some guidence, first the car, stock '72 240 (11/71production) and I just finished replacing shocks. Problem, somehow I seem to have changed the left side wheel placement. When I turn the drivers side wheel far right the front edge of the tire now comes in contact with the front stock valence right behind the turn signal even with no load, no one sitting in drivers seat. The shocks are Stagg (I found out too late these do not have very good reviews) but I have my doubts the shock is creating the problem. I did have to completely remove the strut assembly from the car so the sway bar end link and tension bar connections to the control arm were removed along with the two bolts holding the strut to the steering linkage. No problems with right side wheel only left. What can I do to in essence move the wheel back and/or up, away from the valence? Is this an alignment issue? Is the front strut angle dependent on which of the three nuts is bolted thru the shock tower in the engine compartment? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I know this is a well discussed problem but I did come across a fairly easy solution with simple tools for removing a incredibly stuck gland nut without removing strut assembly completely from the car although you will need to remove the top of the shock tower from the wheel well for access. All you need is a 12" (or larger) channel lock with 3" jaws, two 14" (or longer) 1/2" steel cheater tubes, I used EMT conduit, plus a pipe wrench, mine is 18". The channel locks work well as the jaws have deep teeth that will bite into the gland nut edge giving you a good grip where most wrenches just end up rounding the nut corners. The 1/2" conduit fits snugly around the channel lock arms increasing arm length giving much better leverage and the pipe wrench is used around the shock tube housing to hold it in place when you apply pressure to the nut with the locks, I recommend a helper to hold the pipe wrench so the shock housing does not move or twist. Once you have the locks in place with teeth pressed into the nut edge, push, push hard while holding the tube in place and the nut should release. For more leverage you can use longer 1/2" cheater tubes. It also helps to have a jack underneath the shock assembly to keep it from moving down when turning with the locks. Hope this helps... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I just finished the PerTronix upgrade using the new Ignitor II electronic ignition with solid state dwell compensation plus Flame Thrower Coil on my '72 240Z, 11/71 production with original tach. I opted for the 1.5 ohm coil so I could retain the Ballast resister in order to mimic the original wiring as much as possible just to try and avoid tach issues. Plus (most importantly) I used the John Hull wiring diagram, see link. Carefully following the wiring diagram, and spending about 3 hours total, I buttoned everything up, turned the key and my car fired right up with the tach operating normally. My idle has increased to about 1100 over the original 900 which I will adjust but the car seems to run very smooth with better acceleration and no tach issues. Hope this helps... www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile