Reptoid Overlords

Thank you for your research! I will take this into account for sure. I have blown some compressed air into the bolt holes on the block to ensure all FOD is out of the way, shone a light into the holes and verified to the best of my ability that the holes are free and clear all the way to their stops. I will also measure the threaded lengths of my new set of head bolts to verify any variations vs the old ones. My new set is a Nissan turbo set, ordered through a local dealer. I'm under the impression that these bolts have an updated torque spec of 5 or so more ft-lb than the earlier ones? It would be good to know if the thread lengths are the same. I am going by Tom Monroe's book, it does not appear to elaborate, however I will read ahead a bit to see for sure once I head out to the garage today. I will also measure the bolts I removed at the time of disassembly. If I were more seasoned, I would be able to tell if this engine has been rebuilt, as all internal components seemed pretty clean for the age and all seals were annoyingly sealed with gasket shellac. The freeze plugs looked brand new.

I ended up using brake parts cleaner, I mistakenly grabbed it instead of my throttle body cleaner, hopefully this wasn't a mistake. At any rate I cleaned the threads with a wire cone brush. It turned out that most had to be tapped. So I ran the M10 1.50 tap with some oil on it and ended up pulling a slight amount of crud out. The one thing I'm not too sure about is the fact that some head bolts thread all the way to the end of their threads, and some do not. It doesn't seem right, but perhaps it is, and I just don't know. Is this correct, or do I need to get in there and give it a bit more force? I am careful not to torque too hard on it, but at the same time give it enough force to feel like it's bottoming out. Edit: I have all of the old head bolts, and compared them lengthwise to the new Nissan set. The old bolts are the same length as the new ones, hopefully removing the possibility that the tips of some are broken off and sitting at the bottoms of the holes.

Very well then. I will clean with solution and brush before sending the bolt in by hand. If no further action is required then i will move forward. Thanks. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Thank you. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

It might very well be that I'm using the search feature wrong, or Tapatalk and my phone are making things difficult. At any rate, I've picked up my P79 head from the machine shop and am preparing to chase the threads on my block prior to installation. Can someone advise me on which thread pitch to use in my tap set. Thanks in advance. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Have you installed a standalone EFI unit? Or are you running stock(perhaps refreshed) EFI? Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

There are 4 studs, and 4 nuts. I snapped that pic on my way out to work, so it is hard to see. If it hasn't gotten sorted out by the time I get back home I'll take more pictures. I have a complete engine on a stand in my garage so it's easy to see being out of the car. Edit: the nuts in the picture I took are installed to keep them safe from me losing them. You will start with a stud only, install the fan base, and then the nuts (4).

Put the base of the fan on the studs, then the nuts on the studs. It's tight and you'll have to rotate the fan to fit the wrench. Little turns at a time is all you'll get. Unless you have super tight fit ratcheting wrenches. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Did you ever check the dipstick to determine how much oil had been consumed in what amount of time and or mileage? If it was around 600mi since rebuild, was there break in oil still in it? I guess that's kind of irrelevant, but what I'm asking is, How much oil did the engine lose in the 600 or so miles since the rebuild in actual quarts?

Mine was built in November of 1979, a few months before the O2 sensor got Incorporated. I plan on getting some headers from MSA, and welding the O2 bung closed. I appreciate the replies on this. I have a few months to decide what I'll do. All the big things add up, but the little things like head bolts and hoses and exhaust manifold studs and injector holders and seals all add up quick. I need a second job to feed the sickness haha. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

I have all of the equipment, both electrical and mechanical, to direct transfer all items from my completely intact 1980 manifold over to the 1982 P90/F54. Minus the ECU. Budgetary constraints prevent the purchase of standalone EFI. In other words, I'm using my original 1980 ECU. I liked the idea of the earlier manifold because it does not have all of the connections and lines and EGR equipment, so cleaning that area up seemed easier and more tidy with that manifold. Aft of the throttle body, the cavity that runs forward to aft along with the car, is wider than the 1980 manifold. Meaning more air must go in there before moving through the 6 individual passageways to the intake ports on the head. Perhaps this means nothing. My concern is that this will cause problems I can't foresee, such as the ECU leaning or richening it out, or something to that effect. I can transfer everything over directly and know it'll work, or clean it up for looks and maybe end up with some poor running condition. Or I can just clean up and delete things from my 80 manifold. Edit: I don't have the 1982 ECU. Just my original 1980 ECU.

I guess I'm not expecting to gain better performance, more like avoid unwanted, adverse affects. I'm mainly interested in cleaning up the engine bay. Looks like it's a moot point though, as I do have a ZX TB. Haven't attempted to fit one on it..it does still have the TB from the previous owner's '76 280 though..

Began an archeological dig to replace the heater hoses. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

For a great price(a few beers)I have acquired this intake manifold from my friends '76 280z. It was in use before he changed to carbs. He says he bought it from a guy who said he got it from California Datsun. Who knows. What I like about it is it is perfect for deleting all of the rats nest items I plan on deleting along with my engine build. Will the fact that this manifold has capacity to move a higher volume of air affect anything when installing to my P79? I will be using my stock ECM along with stock cam and all EFI componets. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Sorry for the delay. I actually had to fumble around to figure out how to do this in Windows paint. It's truly unbelievable how incompetent I am when it comes to operating simple software. Now that I look at it, it does resemble a floor mat of some sort.

Is that rebar welded to the side of the intake manifold?

Pulled the tired old original engine out of the ZX in anticipation of getting my head back from the machine shop. I'm not quite ready for the new engine yet, but I figure this will give me plenty of opportunity to clean up the engine bay and deal with that miserable power steering fluid leak that's been there since I got the car. Looks like I'll need to replace the coolant hoses to the heater core that run through the firewall. They all but disintegrated upon removal. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/seattle-1978-datsun-series-v8/6939207855.html This one's been on sale for awhile. Maybe the owners weren't too sure about the quality of the late c3 Corvettes. Personally, I love the late '70's - early '80's Corvettes/Trans Am's/Firebirds..and if a GM small block belongs in anything, it's one of those. Just my opinion though.

I think at the end of the day when I ask myself, why would I want to lighten the flywheel?, The answer is to get quicker revs, and a bit more responsiveness. But since I drive it pretty regularly, I'll need to strike a balance between stop and go drive ability and quick revs. it's definitely cheaper to keep it stock. I'll probably end up having the machine shop take it down to 20lbs and keep an Excedy OEM clutch and spend all my saved money on exhaust.

I'm slowly obtaining parts for my F54/P79 engine build. The block is all stock, no mods, and the head will be shaved .080 with the appropriate shims/spacers/valves. Stock cam. Not in any rush, I'd rather wait and save money for parts I want than rush it into the car. That being said, I'm beginning to think that my original plan to buy a lightweight flywheel/stage 1 clutch won't be that good of an idea considering the amount of traffic in my area. I use my Z daily in the summer, and while I take it out regularly for open freeway drives when everyone else is off the roads, It sees work commutes alongside Subaru's and Teslas. How light can I have a machine shop make my stock flywheel before I need to go beyond the OEM style clutch?

If you are able to post a video with audio, that would be the quickest way to get in the ball park for troubleshooting.

While you're in there might as well check wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends/idler arm and replace as necessary. Edit: It shouldn't deter you, but be prepared to notice a very slight decrease in acceleration, or the perception of reduced acceleration when switching up to wider tires from stock 14" sizes.

I'm going to go look at this unknown year Datsun truck this afternoon. The seller is a person of few words. And what words are utilized are often misspelled. They say "did I mention the transmission is out". Not sure if that means it's in the bed or gone completely. Assuming everything is there, and rust is at least manageable, how much are these trucks in this state worth? I don't have high hopes, but it's something to do on a Friday afternoon after work. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Of course. Ellensburg is quite a ways from where I am located, or I'd go check it out. It's a college town with about 20.000 people, so hopefully someone on here can take a look at it for you. Best of luck!

Are you sure It's not Ellensburg?