Reptoid Overlords

It's almost like a yellow version on the "Devil Z" from the Wangan Midnight manga series.

Installed some turbo wheels. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

I ordered the sealed power seals as well, and as far as I can tell, it's the same part number for both intake and exhaust. I have a set of ITM engine componets seals that came with an entire gasket set at home, and all 12 valve stem seals look to have the same dimensions. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

If it's built after April '87, then maybe it has an LSD. That plus a 5 speed. I just spent $200 on valve train parts/shims for my P79. Here we go again. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Where it's parked is probably $1500 a month on top of rent. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Running Z31 in downtown Seattle for $1500. That's the cost of a street L28 head alone haha. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/seattle-1987-nissan-300zx-coupe-with/6931138256.html Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

I ended up going with the cam tower spacers and valve spring shims from Datsun Spirit. The polished valves look real nice, but I opted for OEM style 44mm/35mm valves from Rockauto. When I e-mailed Datsun Sprit's contact on their webpage with some questions about what to get, I got a reply from Eiji himself. On a Sunday no doubt. http://datsunspirit.com/shop/cam-tower-spacers-080-2-0mm-copy/ http://datsunspirit.com/shop/swirl-polished-valves-44mm-35mm/

It's better you get acquainted with liquid cooled engines in these cars rather than the Wasserboxers. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Is it the filter that came on it when you bought it? Or did you change the oil and filter when you bought it. if you find that it is tight, maybe verify that it is the proper filter, or that it isn't double gasketed. I've heard of oil filter o rings sticking to the housing when removing the filter, although I've never seen it.

Man I didn't even think about Datsun Spirit. And with all those beautiful engine build threads. I was looking through Motorsports online site(another good bunch)and only saw spacers for. 040 on the cam towers. I'm looking for cam tower spacers/valve spring spacers/valves to match. 080 shaved P79 head. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I am having a bit of a time finding the cam towers /valve spring shims.. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Going after a birthday present for my friends little boy. This one requires no thought. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I Like the video. Mine starts like that after it's warmed up, but when it's cold it takes a few more revolutions and stumbles for about 2 seconds until it evens out to cold idle. It's good to see a benchmark for normal cold start.

It doesn't really sound like vacuum leak symptoms, but it's good to know your vacuum numbers at any rate. As site said, go rent a vacuum tester. You want to measure with the engine at normal operating temperature. Find where the rubber hose from the brake booster goes into the intake manifold. Loosen the clamp at the manifold, remove the hose, and attach the proper adapter included with the vacuum tester kit. Start the engine and observe where the needle sits at idle. For at or near sea level locations, I believe 20-23HG is nominal..17 is low but acceptable. I don't know much about Houston, but I know it's hot and humid and most likely near or below sea level, so the numbers on the gauge are to be read without doing math(higher elevations require a formula for factoring elevation). One thing to note in your particular situation is that you stated earlier that your engine idles at 1200 RPM. That will produce a higher vacuum reading, possibly masking any problems. My '80 ZX is supposed to idle at 750RPM(which it currently does)..I'm sure 750 is right for all the FI cars but you might want to verify idle RPM for your year. I would research how to adjust the idle mixture adjustment screw http://xenonzcar.com/s130/afmrefresh.html See step 7

Will it run long enough after its sat a while to get some numbers such as fuel pressure and vacuum etc? If so then it would help the community troubleshoot. I don't know if your car is fuel injected. My phone doesn't show any profile info. Maybe run some of the ECU tests in the FSM and post results. Also a video of it malfunctioning might help. Whether or not it only does it when it's hot or anytime. I had a bad stumble years ago due to an improperly adjusted and moist TVS. I could Re create the stumble by operating the throttle from outside the car and it would go away as I moved the TVS. Not saying you have the same problem.. Nor am I suggesting that you adjust the TVS without using the method prescribed in the FSM. Edit: I said stumble, but more specifically I mean misfire. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I'm having a machine shop do what is put forth by the Z doctor for my P79 head. I will be leaving the F54 stock except for new seals/water pump and oil pump etc. And of course headers and more exhaust. For around $400-500 it seems like a good easy way to get a bit more out of an otherwise stock L28 and remain as reliable(leaving the cam stock for original EFI computer). At least for me, as someone who doesn't have much experience building engines. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

If you aren't sure what oil is in there now, you might as well just change it and the filter. If you have to move the car and want to ensure proper oil level then I'd go with 10W30. Then change it. The most accurate way to check the oil is after the engine has reached normal operating temp, and has sat on level ground for at least 15 min. Oil viscosity depends on your climate, and how worn and/or how much oil the engine consumes. 10W30 is pretty standard for an engine in good condition, and up to 20W50 can be used in engines that are more worn out. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I was thinking of these rims, found on the glorious S1 Quattros of antiquity. But they have too many spokes.

They sort of look like the wheels that came on some Audi Quattros of the 1980`s. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

https://www.copart.com/lot/34638699 Looks like the car in the original post is still around.

Eibach lowering springs work quite well. KYB says not to use stock shock absorbers with lowering springs, but I've been using them for a bit now and I haven't put it in a ditch. KYB Gas adjust for the rear are easy to come by. consider Rota Shokotan rims.

I believe if you have dish top pistons then it is possible for some fuel to sit at the top without making it past the rings. However, I'm sure the results you observed still indicate there wasn't any fuel, but it might still be good advice to have an assistant start the engine (or use a remote starter yourself), and look for fuel coming out of the empty spark plug holes. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I don't know if this has any parts you need, but it's free, if you haven't already seen it... https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/seattle-1972-datsun-240z-5-speed-clip/6880222160.html

Glad your family is okay. The Ballard bridge and the Aurora AVE bridges are truly miserable. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I saw it, I was only joking about the AFM comment. My dry sense of humor.