Reptoid Overlords

I got the halfshafts back from NW driveline. They did great work. Even painted them. I've put everything back together and went on a test run with some mixed city/freeway driving. Don't hear any clicks or any other abnormal noises. The diff whined a bit at first but shut up after a bit of driving. I guess I can move on to other things now. Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction.

I noticed the other day when I removed the old differential that if you spin one side, the other side spins a lot slower than the side you are spinning by hand. Sometimes, it doesn't even spin at all. The spare differential spins the same speed and doesn't stop until you stop spinning it. Also it seems a bit "tighter" than the old one. I haven't got my halfshafts back from the shop yet, but I'm guessing my old differential has some problems. Also, the other side spline came out when I removed the halfshaft. So now both sides have no circlips. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

This is all great information, and I will definitely take it all into consideration. I'm honestly leaning towards letting it be for now, but if I do, I'll keep an eye on oil consumption to determine weather or not it's time, and move ahead on my engine build. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I've watched a video of a guy do one on a Miata DOHC 4cyl. Seems legit, but I expect the procedure to be a bit more problematic for lack of a better term. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Maybe the best course of action is to take the head to the machine shop if the price is right? I'll look into it for sure. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I have a puff of blue smoke at cold start. Been that way for about a year. The car goes through approximately 1 quart of oil in 3.000 miles(10W30). Per a friend following in another vehicle, there is no smoke under heavy load, and no smoke after high engine vacuum(3500+RPM downhill followed by acceleration). Oil consumption goes down to about half a quart if i use 20W50 instead of 10W30(conventional). High mileage oil with seal conditioners seem to have no effect on cold start smoke or oil consumption. Compression reads in the low 170's evenly across all 6 cylinders with a good tester(high 150's with the Harbor Freight tester, but still even across all 6). Did not perform wet compression test. Gas mileage with EGR delete is around 19 to 20MPG with "normal" acceleration. I have a freshly built L28 on a stand. The head is getting shaved, and I still need to get a few things such as oil pump,water pump etc. But most importantly I have a few big purchases to complete that engine how I want it. Mainly Headers, lightened flywheel, more clutch etc. In other words, It'll be a good while before that engine is ready to go into any car. So I'm faced with making the decision to replace the valve stem seals in the running engine. I could just live with it, and wait for the other engine to be ready, or go ahead and replace the seals. I have a set sitting in the garage i didn't use for the other head. I havent quite made up my mind yet. I don't like knowing it smokes, even a little, but the fact that it's not too bad might just be ok with me. If i decide to replace the seals, what is the proper valve spring compressor tool, and how can I tell if the springs need to be replaced while they are out? Should I just get a set with new retainers and springs and all that just to be safe? I'll admit, removing the cam scares me a bit. But I'm not afraid to do it.

I've gotten Spicer U-joints from Drivelines NW in the past. Thanks for the input. Not really having dealt with halfshaft rear ends, i wasn't sure what to look for as far as signs of failure. I've only experienced the typical clicking from FWD cars when turning.

The noise goes away after approximately 10 MPH(15MPH at the most). it doesn't go away when I turn, and seems to be concurrent with wheel speed. If i brake it goes away, or at the very least, gets quieter. Edit: I'll have to drive it again to verify for sure that the noise does not go away turning beyond 15MPH. Thinking back, I cannot be 100% sure that when I experience the noise, that I have turned the car at or beyond 15MPH. I just know that if i turn into my driveway from my street and it's making the noise, I will still be making the noise. But in reality, that's probably about 2-5 MPH if even that. So I'll test again and report back.

OEM style Raybestos brand rotors with metallic pads.

Do these halfshafts make a clicking noise at low speeds when driving straight when they are starting to fail? I have installed my spare diff('82 R180). Earlier I stated that it was missing a circlip, but I was mistaken. Both axles took a tremendous effort to remove. So much that I ended up taking it to a local shop to have them removed. Installed new ones and re-sealed. Also I've just replaced the front and rear shocks along with Eibach lowering springs from motorsport(a major improvement in handling) I have replaced both inner/outer tire rod ends w/new adjustment sleeves, although highly unlikely to be the cause, but worth mentioning. Rear wheel bearings replaced about 3 years ago. No noticeable groan or dragging noises typically associated with wheel bearings. Still need to have it aligned, so I haven't taken it on any long drives, just around a bit to test. The clicking seems to occur after having been driven for roughly 15-30 minutes, and only noticeable at around 5-10 MPH. I verified that other noises simply weren't drowning out the noise at speed by running various speeds on a nearly empty road with minimal traffic noise. Exhaust is not loud. Cannot reproduce the noise with the rear jacked up, either with only one side jacked up, or the entire rear jacked up. This problem existed before all of the above mentioned work was done, and the current halfshafts in the car now are what were installed when I got the car..possibly original. A similar, but unrelated noise was found to be brake pad pins not seated/installed properly by me from years ago.

Looks like the set that came on my ZX. The brand is called Modern. There's a sticker on the inside of the Center caps that say made in Taiwan with the date 7-21-01. Just lowered the car and currently looking for some ZX turbo wheels to replace them. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

An `82 N/A automatic transmission. Saleswoman let me in the gazebo and walked off. Seeing how I showed up in my rat Z, I explained I've had them apart a few times. Seemed like I wasn't the target customer. The body is beautiful and rust free with 108k miles. Exhaust is tacky, and the motor, while an L28E and not a V8, is in a pretty derelict state, in terms of grime and valve cover finish. No idea how it runs. Battery acid is hanging out below the battery tray too. And, it's an automatic. I decided not to drive it. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

The local GM dealership put a ZX in its windowed gazebo today. $10k for it. Yikes. It's pretty good looking though. I've always thought stock ride height on the ZX was a bit goofy looking, for lack of a better term. I've lowered mine similar to this one, except mine is nowhere near as nice. I wonder about that exhaust though. Is it V8 swapped? Or is it split that way just because.. I dare not ask a salesman. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Mount Akagi. Sorry.. The phones autocorrect put that there, and I failed to proofread it. Anyway, the road that the Initial D series was based on. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Mount Akina! Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I would get a rebuild kit for the calipers. I'm a ZX owner, so I've not yet had the pleasure of dealing with Z car rear drums. The rebuild kit is simply a few seals. Once you remove the piston (compressed air though an open bleeder valve) you'll likely notice decades of gunk and sediment. Clean it, reseal it, and you're good to go. Check for burrs or imperfections in the walls/piston of course. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Bring a tool box full of metric everything. Maybe bring an entire gasket set, just in case of a failure, a shop in BFE might be more inclined to replace something if you present the parts. Bring a jack, and some jackstands. I would replace all the fluids when I got back, even if they were replaced just before the trip. Check the spark plugs once home, and begin surveying your new sickness. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/d/snoqualmie-datsun-260z/6844001040.html Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

A Honda F motor would make a mean little sleeper. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Is that a hydraulic lifter P90A head? Nevemind. For some reason my eyes were wanting to see turbo at the beginning of your post. Disregard. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

Coolant will come out of that hole just after the 5th plug, towards the end of the block. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

My ZX was a parts car when I got it. Now it can be daily driven. It barely ran, had/has rust and dents and hardly moved due to wheel bearings in a miserable state. I got lucky and paid $200 US for it about 3years ago. I see them selling for 2500 in a similar state. I also see 1st gen Mazda RX7`s in decent running condition from 1500 to 7500. I've always wanted one of those, lowered a hair, maybe some alloy rims from the mid `80`s 626. Anyways, you can always get lucky. The real challenge is being patient and pulling the trigger at the right time. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I'll bet there's very few early cars seen blasting through snow covered roads these days. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

The NAPA auto parts store nearby my house in downtown Everett (of all places) stocks Redline MT90. They don't advertise it. Perhaps one in your neighborhood does the same thing. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

The fact that several distributors/modules caused varying results may very well be all the proof one needs to change the ignition system. However, I had strange things happening at around 2K RPM and sporadic idle when i first got my '80ZX. The most glaring issues were that the distributor timing was set to zero, there was a vacuum leak in the vacuum advance, and there was condensation buildup in the throttle position switch. Also the valve lash was a bit tight on more than one exhaust tappet, and the ignition control module was malfunctioning as the engine was at normal operating temp. Another issue i found was that the coolant temperature switch was coated with a sort of greenish/brown(I'm colorblind) goo that was probably preventing it from doing it's job. All the electrical connectors were in need of cleaning, with the fuel injector connectors having to be entirely replaced due to cracking/buildup. I've used Caig Deoxit to clean connections at the recommendation of others on this forum to great effect. I'm sure you know your car, just wanted to point out the other possibilities so that others who help can get a clear idea of the issue at hand. Edit: I also found my EGR valve to be stuck open, and the cat to be clogged up, so I deleted the entire EGR system.