Reptoid Overlords

I have been keeping a space open for the possibly of finding a decent condition MK 1 or even MK 2 Supra. The Toyota JZ engines are built well and put out a pretty good amount of power. It might be another wild goose chase scenario. The things were thrashed pretty hard just like the Z's typically were. I have the rust spots in the lower part of the windshield area in my '80 ZX. A temporary solution was to caulk it to prevent water intrusion, but it needs to be replaced. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I've spent the past few weeks replacing suspension parts on my '80ZX(bushings/shocks/front wheel bearings/brake pads&rotors/ball joints and tie rod ends). Before I put the car on the jackstands, I noticed more heat than usual being generated by the passenger front hub(hotter than it should be when touching the wheel after driving) I have discovered after putting it all back together(bled the brake system) that I have a sticky caliper. No big, they are pretty much plug and play. I tried replacing the original ones with the ones from my '82 parts car, but they are pretty crusty and generally in poor shape, so I need to get some new ones. I've bought an ignition control module and the master bushing kit from Motorsport, and the parts are perfectly good. Great service too. I have no doubt that their rebuilt calipers are of the same quality as the other stuff I've gotten from them. I'm just curious if anyone else has these calipers and are satisfied with them. Of course, family comes first, and cars 2nd, but I'm 2 calipers away from having the car back on the road after missing out on a this summer driving weather. Probably pulling the trigger when I get back home from a trip visiting the in laws in high desert Idaho. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk

I don't have experience with the S30, but its pretty important all across the S30/S130 line to check the structural integrity of the frame rails. In poor condition, a floor jack can bend and tear them. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

A trick that@siteunseen taught me was to cover the input, output, gear selector areas with plumbing pipe end caps, clamped with hose style clamps. Then cover it with oven cleaner for an hour or so. Once its soaked in spray it down with high pressure water. It works great. You can then easily detail the remaining gunk with a wire brush. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm sure you already know, but just to be safe, the Fel-Pro rear main requires a bit of oil on the outer rim before installation.

Here is the one on my spare trans. Taken straight out of the car and never removed. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks for the update. I'll be getting a hold of those guys as well for sure. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

My local Nissan dealer quoted me something like $120 for the head bolts and told me that Nissan head gaskets for "those old cars" aren't available. I haven't tried Nissan of Bellevue yet. They host local Z club events and might be a bit more informative. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Went to the pick n pull today with a friend to find parts for his Honda, and paid a visit to this car. Its stripped, except the differential, shafts and hub assys are still there. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Spent some time cleaning the oil pan up. It was dirtier than shown, I guess I deleted the picture of when it first came off the car. Under a layer of grime was a bit of surface rust. Its mostly off now. Time for some paint tomorrow-ish. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

That exhaust looks like it'll wake the neighbors when you get it fired up. Beautiful car. Congrats. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Stanwood isn't too far from me. I could go check it out and match numbers and hear it run if anyone is terribly interested. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

A Fairlady would be right hand drive for the Japanese domestic market. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm not sure what build date would constitute an early production '79 ZX, or if its even all that important to most people. But as far as ZX's go, I personally prefer '79 through '80. After that you have O2 sensors and automatic climate control and T-tops. All fairly troublesome. The later cars got flat tops with the F54 blocks. You have dish top pistons(assuming its original), with N42 block/N47 head. I have an '80ZX with its original engine that seems to be holding up quite well. These are solid machines. I'm currently building an F54/P90 to put in it either when I feel like it, or this one wears out. The current engine will probably outlast my eagerness to swap it out with the new one. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Maybe one of them will be asked to star in a movie next! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

When it comes to things like head gaskets and rear/front seals, I feel like spending a few extra dollars is more than worth it.. Before I pull the trigger on Fel-Pro's head gasket and rear/front seals(which comes with side seals), should i stop and consider getting those directly from Nissan? The Fel-Pro head gasket is multi layer steel, and I have their rear seal/side seal kit in my other car. As far as i can tell it isn't hemorrhaging oil. I lubed the outside of the seal before installation as advised in some other thread here. It seems like the entire engine gasket set from Fel-Pro is the way to go, with maybe getting a Nissan head gasket. Just to be safe. Rock Auto also has a Hitachi oil pump for $40 I'll be getting.

I was thinking today, that there will soon be an entire generation where the majority has no idea what it sounds like to insert a cassette tape into a deck and press play. All the mechanical racket that happens before you hear any music. I totally appreciate having the ability to go online and hear anything I ever want to hear at my fingertips, but I hope the old tech never dies out completely. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Its my understanding that a failing brake booster will result in RPM drop as opposed to RPM rise. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Just don't go over MT. Hood. You'll be fine. I've been driving my ZX all week in the rain here. The windows want to fog up but even with A/C deleted the EVAP system keeps the windscreen clear. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Did you ever find a suitable set of bushings? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

If no one knows off hand by this afternoon, I can pull a rear wheel off of my '82 parts car and the '80 running car and compare what's on there. It'll be a good bit later in the day though. I'd be willing to bet someone knows and responds before then. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile Edit: these cars are federal(non-California)U.S. market cars.

If you haven't already looked into it, now might be a good time to replace the rear main oil seal, side seals, front seal, and oil pan gasket while the transmission is out of the way. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Good stuff. I'm probably going with the ITM timing set on Rock Auto for &50. looks like U.S./Japan and European sources. I'm taking notes on this thread as its pertinent to my situation. Well in the next few months at least. I was curious as to what lube would be recommended for the timing set once installed. If anything other than oil.

What about timing components on a new build? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I think these things are cheaper than fashioning a sunroof into your Z. You can run through 1 every 6 months and just get another. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile