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Reptoid Overlords

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Everything posted by Reptoid Overlords

  1. I had to go get one of these. Of course, a socket wont fit for some of the heat shield bolts. m.harborfreight.com/9-pc-38-in-drive-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
  2. I deleted it, as I noticed it had been posted once already. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/6067678749.html
  3. Carbureted 2.8/5 speed/ aftermarket air.
  4. I should've updated as I think I've diluted the thread a bit. There was moisture in my TVS, but my rpm related problem was due to the alternator hold down bolt coming loose, causing the belt to slip preventing smooth voltage distribution to wherever it needed it. I guess that rpm was just the right spot to make it run weird. Thanks for your reply.
  5. The dropping resistor, as its called, are indeed 6 resistors that reduce voltage to the injector for protection. Looks like they started using them in 280z's EFI systems. I have no cause for concern that mine is bad, but it needs to be cleaned up and tested just to make myself feel better. I was just curious if you had run into any problems with them.
  6. It is located roughly 30 minutes from me. Unfortunately I won't be able to jump on it if its legit, but I'd be happy to check it out for anyone who's interested.
  7. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/6060423421.html
  8. I've replaced the fuel injector/CHT/Thermo connectors and fusable links. I was thinking of testing and cleaning the voltage drop resistor next. I had an intermittent stall that ended up being a faulty alternator hold down bolt, causing the belt to loosen. Replacing the bolt and re-tightnening the belt fixed it. Any advice or heads up about troubles regarding the voltage drop resistor would be appreciated. It'll be the last electrical connection that I'm aware of that hasn't been tended to. The pocket calculator under the drivers side kick panel has been tested per FSM along with a good deoxit treatment. Ignition module appears to be functioning as intended.
  9. Thank you. That's very helpful, and I will do just that.
  10. Thanks. I appreciate it. Not that they are related, but ignition modules from I believe '77-81 are compatible. The one I have is working and adjusted properly. According to the FSM ohmmeter check. It just likes to get wet. It's the one with the rivets that fasten the black plastic cover to the metal base.
  11. I made the mistake of getting an autozone cap and rotor when I first got the car just to get something new in there. Total garbage. I have a Bosch rotor on the way from Rock Auto. I'll let you know if its much better.
  12. A silica gel packet? Never thought of that. Thanks. I'll see if I can't get one in there.
  13. I wasn't too sure if that was OK with the electrics inside...but I'll give it a go. I was hesitant to use it in the actual TPS, and it sounds like that isn't what you are suggesting. So I'm not going to do it. I've used some Deoxit D5 on the connector, which stays dry. For now, I will put TPS removal as a regular maintenance item when needed and remember how minute and trite my problem is compared to real problems that others have.
  14. Every few months or so I'm pulling the TPS out of my N/A '80ZX to find tiny amounts of moisture built up inside causing a slight miss at a specific RPM(1600-1800). Once cleaned out it runs like a golden chariot. I live in the rainy pacific NW USA where constant moisture and cold fog dominate most of the year. The car has been daily driven for the past several months while rebuilding my Jeep, so its exposed to the elements. Has anyone found a decent way to seal or otherwise prevent moisture from building up in the TPS while still allowing for future removal?
  15. My mistake. Yours never had an injector cooling fan.
  16. Looks like your injector cooling fan is missing. Perhaps that is the connector for it.
  17. Almost sounds like the EGR is stuck open, if equipped.
  18. I have been dailying my '80ZX for about 3 months now. Not by choice. My daily was a '94 Cherokee. It has 384k miles, but the timing set is loose. Decided its time for a rebuild. while its taken apart in The garage, the Z has proven to be quite the reliable get to work/ kid transporter. Plus the added fun associated. There something about I6 RWD configuration that makes everything comfortable. It may be a longshot, but if you could find a late '80's Toyota Cressida you'll get a lot of the same joy while not burning up your Z.
  19. Hard to tell, but the picture of the open hatch reveals some crushed looking damage on the upper fender, nearby where the rear window should be.
  20. https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/6031282879.html
  21. I was just making a snarky comment about the mindset of the average Washington's idea of entitlement. As a Washingtonian myself. Didn't mean offense, or to change the topic.
  22. But in Washington everyone is entitled to top dollar for nothing.
  23. Yikes. I'll bet it ends up with a small block Chevy in it.
  24. At past prices you could buy the car, have a stroker built for it and still not hit $11k.
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