Reptoid Overlords

We all make sure to look busy when you enter the room haha.

In Japan they go out and get Kentucky Fried Chicken to celebrate American Thanksgiving. A wonderful people with perhaps the most excellent way to meld American culture into their own. Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate it. It's just an excuse for us to eat and complain about our families haha.

I have been running the F54 on my '80ZX without that valve for several years and have found no negative side effects. I have no way of knowing if my heater core is original, but being as it's no longer available, I'd guess it's at least a decade old. I inspected it last year when the dash was out while fixing floorboard rust holes and such. No apparent problems. I run the heat pretty much constantly in the winter. I'm not sure if that would ave anything to do with coolant circulation to the rear of the head, but during the break in procedure of my engine, I checked temperatures from the front of the engine to the rear and did not notice any wild variations in temperature(with IR temp reader and spark plug observation). Roughly 3,000 miles since rebuild.

Here is a thread where I was asking for previous experience and thoughts on a .480/274 cam with stock fuel injection. People with a great deal of knowledge suggested that I would be disappointed with the results. I ended up installing a .460 lift cam on a .080 shaved P79 head with DSI lightened flat top pistons. I went for Zcardepot's FAST EFI system. It's nowhere near as tunable as Megasquirt or Haltech, but it works just fine for my application. The car runs beautifully. Didn't even bother seeing what would happen if i tried to run the stock FI. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63898-lift-480-480-duration-274274-cam-with-oe-fuel-injection/

If I were close I would. I've always wondered if you could get away with doing a restoration in a public storage rental...

I'm sure someone will chime in with a more scientific response, but I remember reading that you are supposed to re-torque the exhaust hardware after a few heat cycles..which I have interpreted as cold. I believe I have the cheaper version of the same header as you...the MSA paintable 6 to 1(non coated). I have the same tick, and it gets a little louder when the car is at normal operating temperature. I will contend, however, that I did "lightly" drop the header last year when I had the engine out of the car, so I'm sure my tick is self inflicted. I have replaced the OEM exhaust hardware with studs from MSA, and I have indeed tightened them while hot...but certainly not very much tighter than they were. It made the tick only barely less noticeable, and preceded go back to the same noise level after another long drive..but again, I probably have a small fracture. So cold is probably safest, hot is ok as long as you are careful not to put too much pressure on your wrist torque wrench.

Oddville, The Frogs and Sebastian Bach..a walk down memory lane.

One thing in addition to the info Mark suggested, wether or not the engine is at normal operating temperature vs. cold will affect your readings. But as was mentioned, you're more concerned about having the numbers not be too far off from each other. I have a cheap Harbor Freight compression checker and it reads about 18 psi lower when checked alongside a Snap on compression checker. It's even worse on my small 90cc Honda CT90 dirt bike. Some say the position of the Schrader valve has something to do with it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Datsun-Z-Series-/324840608189?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Another sweet convertible. Hard to resist hitting the Buy now button

Yeah I understand. Good on you, man. The late '80's were my early teens, wish I had learned some decent work ethic instead of how to be a troublemaker. That came later. Congrats on the new job, now is indeed a good time to be in the paint industry.

If you are anything like me that means stealing your dad's car to take you and your skateboarding punk friends to a Bad Religion concert, wrecking it on the way back doing doughnuts trying to impress girls?

Try OfferUp too. It's what all the kids are using haha

Sometimes i feel like where I live I'd have an easier time navigating the system if I got all hopped up on Fentanyl, shot someone and then stole their car, as opposed to shooting someone who stole my car.

Just in case your engine has been swapped with a later ZX motor or Frankensteined out of a later head/earlier block, look on the passenger side along the bottom of the head for the head identification..It'll likely be N47

It'll depend on which head you have what shape the exhaust ports are.

I believe it’s coming here to the US and soon. It's already on the west coast. The homelessness and the drugs are in the driver's seat.

Thank goodness there weren't video cameras in everyone's hands when we were younger..

I think two threads are running the same conversation?

This is the best picture my cheap-o phone can produce. But It's Z Car Depo's Fuel Injection Rail Kit with Regulator: https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-injection/products/fuel-injection-rail-kit-with-regulator-efi-280z-280zx# My car is a 1980 ZX like dutchzcarguy's car, which means I had to install the fuel pressure regulator remotely in the engine bay. The S30 can have the fuel pressure regulator installed in tandem to the rear of the fuel rail as pictured in the link above. The fuel rail will accommodate stock injectors or 14.5mm "o-ring" type injectors from newer Ford or Chevrolet vehicles, but as far as I have read, the stock ECM/ECU will not run the 14.5mm injectors properly. https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-injection/products/fuel-injector-14mm-o-ring-19-new-efi# I am running their FAST EFI kit on a mildly built higher compression flat top L28, with the 14.5mm injectors and it works perfectly fine for what I want out of it. It's pretty much plug and play. https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-injection/products/fuel-injection-retrofit-kit-fast-efi-280z-280zx#

My dad bought the Nissan D21 pickup i now currently daily when it was brand new in 1993. I have just simply maintained it, no mods, other than just lowered 2 inches. Most have ended up like this:

The Beru cap that came with the distributor lasted almost 2 days without losing the center diode. Luckily for me, the car wasn't running when it happened. I was re-installing it after cleaning up the install when it popped out while attaching the coil lead. The Bremi cap arrived later in the day(a whole 2 days early). I installed it and went for a 30 mile drive. No problems. Smooth as butter. It's already been said, but I'll say it again..Don't trust the cap that comes with the 123 ignition distributor. The distributor works great tough. The BREMI cap # 8017p is readily available stateside and is $20.00 on amazon..and has at least put up with 30 miles haha.

Yes this was most helpful. Save yourself the trouble and don't read past post #8. I used copper sealer on a Victor Reinz intake/exhaust manifold gasket and wrote a 1200 word dissertation about it haha. My friend and I were making our own jalapeno vodka in those days.

On a budget? I'll bet these'll do https://www.ebay.com/itm/124681185423?hash=item1d0793e88f:g:JnAAAOSwSthgd1eM Or be the envy of your social circle https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-body-kits/nissan/nissan-datsun-cknn03-1

So my patience isn't as solid as I had hoped it would be. I went ahead and ordered the 123. It came today, and within an hour and a half, it was installed and the car was running again. There are several resources regarding installation, so I won't babble on about it, suffice it to say that it was easy, and the video and write up supplied by @AK260 was indeed a big help. Many thanks to all who have replied and helped here on this subject. That being said, I put a conservative tune on it and drove it around a bit, roughly 15 miles. I didn't want to chance the Beru cap exploding. I have ordered a BREMI cap and should be here Monday. Until then, the Z is back on the road and my new refrigerator is still in the box. Priorities. VID_20210909_164515746.mp4

I had to buy a new refrigerator so the fancy distributor will have to wait. Hateful appliances taking away from car parts. I like to keep some money saved away for emergencies( :cough:: car parts), but it looks like I ought to be smart and dump some more into savings over the next month or so. Luckily, I added some stabilizer to the fuel and ran it before i took the distributor out. It'll be sitting around for about a month without running I'd say. My distributor is completely thrashed. The magnet and advance mechanism bearing cage or whatever, totally disintegrated.