Reptoid Overlords

My P79 is right at .080 and with a standard Nissan head gasket is on the verge of ignition ping if I go anything past 12 degrees base timing(my vac advance is currently bypassed due to busted diaphragm).

But it's prob a 2.6? He hays 240z/260z in the ad. maybe worth checking if it's a 2.8 and he doesn't know it..

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/dublin-datsun-240z-260z-engine-block/7308756529.html Maybe you can salvage this one.

Buy Tom Monroe's how to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC book, go spend a few hundred dollars on tools you might not have, and set about rebuilding it yourself. I had never done it before, and aside from some slight anxiety, I managed to get through it. Ive been running it over a year without problems(Just recently went through it again this time with cam/valvetrain) Not trying to speak poorly about your mechanic, but typically it's about $3500 to have an L28 totally gone through and rebuilt stock. Personally I love LS motors. They are great, and just make sense. I've thought of doing an LS swapped early '80's Trans AM. But part of Z ownership is that wonderful L series. Just my opinion of course.

As someone who has been spending too much time sanding as of recent, I can say you do start seeing things.

Sputnik time

That is the primer. The original colour was 307 Pacific Blue Metallic. Which is a nice colour I believe. However, I am painting it white. Not entirely sure exactly how far between Alpine and eggshell yet. I have a couple of weeks to figure it out.

So I finally got my engine/drivetrain how I want it, now it's time to make a mockery of auto body work. 1st time prepping/painting a car. I got some booth time and a bit of mentoring for some primer. It's a Bondo machine that's for sure. I'm not trying to win any beauty pageants, just have some fun. I'll be happy if it's a 10 footer. Not much can be worse than it was before.

It seems like there's three parts to this thread. 1. EFI troubleshooting 2. Change/upgrade certain fuel components. 3. R&R exhaust manifold for straightness/ fix mounting studs/and intake/exhaust manifold gasket. I don't want to complicate things by adding aftermarket EFI possibilities when your stock system can most likely be put into a good functioning condition. I would urge you to follow the troubleshooting steps put forth by others. Stock EFI works perfectly fine for a stock engine(stock cam/internals etc.) That being said, an aftermarket system will essentially replace the existing stock ECM/ECU. Any aftermarket EFI will require the use of a new harness(I'm about 95% sure) Again, it is my understanding that the stock ECU will not run the 14mm O-ring type Ford/GM injectors. But I've never tried it. As far as I know, the stock exhaust manifold will flow just fine with different injectors. You can install headers and run stock EFI, or aftermarket with no modifications/tuning required. I have these headers: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19c/15-6004

Not entirely sure about the NOID light brightness. As far as new fuel rails go, I have been using this one from Z car depot that comes with an adjustable FPR. Of course you can get a separate FPR altogether and piece it all together yourself. I am using aftermarket EFI (FAST EFI) and decided to use the 14mm injectors that are found in post 2000 Ford and GM vehicles. It is my understanding that the stock EFI won't run them properly. So you'd have to select the option for stock fuel injectors for stock EFI. https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-injection/products/fuel-injection-rail-kit-with-regulator-efi-280z-280zx#

Beautiful car. Great noise too. I love to take mine through the tunnels on the freeway. Nothing quite like it. I can't help but notice the lack of people jumping in front of you without using their turn signals and slamming on their brakes for the upcoming exit. I forget that some cities might actually be a pleasant place to drive sometimes. Congrats on the car.

I believe the hose from your valve cover needs to be behind the throttle body vane.. Also, i cant see the ground connections from the EFI wiring harness. They should have just enough length coming out of the harness to be connected to the intake manifold.

I will. Bodywork is not my strong point so I'll have to doctor up the photos haha. But I got started today, in the spirit of pictures or it didn't happen. No decent pictures of the engine build. The phone is too low end for anything close up.

Well, to be fair, I'm not by any stretch of the imagination a seasoned engine builder. Somewhere along the line I got that the 1st 20 miles of break in are critical, and the oil change/head bolt torque check/valve lash check interval would be at 250 miles. But for all i know the rings could at least be already set. Should probably run compression/leak down test but everything seems normal so far. I'm pretty new to it all.

About a year ago, I put a newly refreshed and .080 shaved P79 head on a used stock F54 block. I have since rebuilt the block with new rings/bearings, etc. I also installed a .480 lift cam and new rockers/springs valve seals, and DSI swirl polished valves. I'm running it all with FAST EFI from Zcardepot. It all works great. I've been breaking it in by running it at short full throttle bursts and engine braking down hills. Never over 4k RPM and constantly fluctuating RPM/cruise speed. I have put roughly 175 miles on it so far and have no reason to believe it is not breaking in properly. Plugs look good, no smoke, no oil consumption so far, and it's making good power. I met an acquaintance recently who has the same car sickness I do, except with Mitsubishi Monteros. He has access to a paint booth and painting experience. He says if I prep the car, he'll show me how to paint it in the booth. I buy supplies. Can't beat that. I'd like to get started right away so as not to waist the opportunity. So my question is probably a silly one, but I'll feel better knowing for sure. Will it be okay to let my newly rebuilt and hardly driven/not quite broken in motor sit for a few months before I continue the break in process? Thanks in advance.

Any noticeable smoke on hot startup?

Many leak oil at the back corner of the oil pan, passenger side of the car. i have a brand new oil pan gasket, torqued to 7 ft/lbs, with less than 100 miles on it and I can already see the signs of seepage. Welcome, and beautiful car. Edit: I just re torqued to 7ft-lbs after 100 miles but haven't driven it yet. Perhaps yours is freshly rebuilt and simply due for a re check of torque specs.

If the engine currently in your car is tired, then you will surely see some improvement in performance with the new one as is. Like everyone else said. While you have it all out you could consider some exhaust options to spice things up a bit. Not sure what you're running now, but if it's stock some headers and 2 1/2" exhaust is good bang for the buck. I'm running MSA headers and full exhaust except for Z story muffler.

I'm sure there's no need to apologize to anyone here. And my condolences to you and your family.

We lost a real gem when Mark Sandman died.

I searched the turbo forums and found that a knock sensor goes there? I think that I read that the turbo blocks and N/A blocks are the same except for the turbos had an oil cooler and dish top pistons? I don't remember pulling anything out of there but the block was at a machine shop for hot tanking and honing. Maybe it's on his shop floor.

It's not the oil pressure sender, that is in the 3 o'clock position when facing the oil filter. this hole is above and to the left a bit when facing the oil filter.

Been going through my engine for the last couple of months. I'm re installing it in the car and can't for the life of me remember if anything came out of this hole. If so, would someone kindly re educate me. It's roughly in the 11 o'clock position when facing the oil filter housing area. Pictures on google show it not used but I could only find clear pictures of peoples engines on stands(not in car). It's a 1982 F54.