Reptoid Overlords

Farting and giggling for sure. It all started when it exposed the hose. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Got in the beater today to find the carb going silly. The fun thing about Motorcraft carbs is..well..nothing. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

On a side note, one good thing about your car is that the F54 block already has flat top pistons. And depending on build date, has P79/P90 head, which are arguably some of the best ones. Endless debate about all that. I have an '80ZX I drive regularly, and an '82 with basket case electrics and excessive rust I've pulled the engine/trans out of. Most of the suspension bushings on both cars are/were in a poor state. Although neither one is in as good a condition as yours. I have had a hard time finding OEM style rubber bushings, but poly ones seem pretty readily available. MSA has a whole set for about $120 I think. If your leak turns out to not be where others have mentioned, Transmission seals are pretty cheap, and removing the trans with the car up at least 3 feet isn't too terrible. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

If I were you I'd get it up on 4 jack stands and shake the heck out of the wheels to see if there's any play. Good practice when just getting a new old car. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'd say there's a pretty good chance that the existing gasket might have torn, or at the very least become unseated from removing the intake manifold. I've never used a torque wrench on the bolts. Only heat cycled and re- tightened. I plan to use the stud kit when I put the engine I'm rebuilding back together. It might be time to replace it. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I wonder if I take the radiator out of a mk3 Jetta if that counts as an air cooled VW.. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Its back, now @ $4600 https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/d/z/6542156073.html Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

What was the answer of 8-9k RPM in response to? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

My problems don't stop there. He/they painted the block the same color. Ford blue maybe? I'm pretty colorblind. As I've dug into it over the past few days, I've seen evidence that the bottom end has been rebuilt already. I'm just going to take the block and the intake manifold to a machine shop I trust and have it drop tanked and bead blasted. They are old school guys who build derby cars. Mostly small block Chevy's, but you don't need Nissan experience to remove paint. I won't be offended in the least if this thread gets zero more responses or deleted hahaha. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yeah its pretty wretched. It was sarcasm about it not being a bad idea. I might be better off sourcing a different manifold. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

The PO of the parts car whose engine I'm in the process of disassembling/rebuilding has painted the intake manifold blue. Its not a half bad idea, but over the years it has chipped and the intake ports have quite a bit of crud on the inside. I have no experience with parts baths and the like. I'm looking for recommendations for the proper materials I need to remove the paint. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Someone jumped. Its deleted already. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Honestly, I was hoping something like this wouldn't turn up for another year or so haha. I'm rebuilding an L28 that would sit perfect in this car. If it is as it seems in the ad at least. But I can't quite justify the cost at this point. I even have access to a truck and trailer to go get it. Hopefully someone ends up with it and gets it where it needs to be. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Not my car, 1972 240 no title. For $3,000. Whats odd is the New York licence plates on a Tacoma, WA ad. New York has yellow licence plates again as far as I can tell. Seems a bit far to haul for a $3k sale. Pretty cool car though. https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/d/z/6538687206.html Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

A little of both. The head is pretty dirty. I guess at the end of the day I really like knowing for certain everything's in good order. But mostly its for learning. It did sit for quite a while. As I uncover the small amount of grime that is on it I'm beginning to feel like I really could've just popped it right in something. But there's also that satisfaction of when it fires up and you're driving it down the road knowing you had it apart, and put it back together. It won't break the bank too bad either, buying parts over time. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

You're totally right. That statement was a bit sarcastic. Of course, I'll love her regardless of age, but if she's telling me to move over now, I imagine her teens will be a time of "confidence" Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

There would have to be some serious real time traffic feed, surely eating up recourses on already taxed satellite constellations. GPS is only accurate up to a certain point, and can be up to 5 mi. off. Its more accurate if you add Russia's GLONASS satellites, but not good enough to react to multi- car accidents I'm sure. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

She actually told me to get out of the way. I can't wait until she's a teenager. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I did get some extra help in the garage during a break from terrorizing the neighborhood cats on the bicycle. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

After watching Volvos autobrake videos, I feel bad for cursing my 88 740's power window speed. They really have strayed from what they once were. Simple bricks. There is an entire panel of the worlds leading developers of AI that have been debating and supposedly regulating the future of "the robots". Personally, I feel like self driving cars is a misguided venture given our current level of technology, but Google and uber apparently pull so much weight that it doesn't seem to matter. Automation belongs in space, mining and looking for meaningful science. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I found some 500 grit sandpaper from some bodywork I've been doing on the blue car. I went at it a bit and couldn't see any burrs or anything, so i''ll take the good advice and run it. It's covered at this time to prevent foreign objects from getting in the bore while I remove old gasket material, otherwise I'd take a picture after sanding. That old metal mesh head gasket material is pretty tough to come off. I''ll need to stop off and get some gasket remover or paint thinner on the way home from work tomorrow. Suffice it to say that it should be all good then. I appreciate the replies and advice.

I hear quite a bit of valve chatter. you are supposed to be able to hear the valve train when they are adjusted properly, but to me yours sounds a bit loud, like they are lose like siteunseen said. Vacuum at idle should be around 17 or 19 HG at least, depending on your elevation. Edit: if they say it's probably injector noise we're hearing i'd go with that as opposed to my valve noise suggestion. I have that same vacuum tester and as far as i can tell it's pretty accurate.

Does increasing the resistance on those potentiometers lean the mixture or enrich it? It's my understanding that the front firing is caused by a lean condition. Have you road tested it in this state? I like to get a friend to follow me every now and again as I run through the RPM's on the road to check for any smoke I might not see from the mirrors. I dread the day it starts smoking going down the road. I think I would dial the resistance back and see where it quits smoking. The original problems might come back, but at least you'd be on the right track. It was stated before that your fuel pressure was a bit on the high side. Perhaps verify that the fuel pressure regulator is working properly. Also, I see where you cleaned a bunch of connectors, which is always good, but did you clean the connection from the harness to the ECM under the driver's side kick plate? It has been suggested by many members more experienced than I to use Deoxit D5 to clean all of those contacts/connections. It can be found at Guitar Center music stores(It's pretty fun shutting a salesperson down by telling them it's for your Z car) It does work quite well as I've started using it on all sorts of electronics. Don't forget to clean/inspect the grounds from the harness to the intake manifold.

From the looks of it, #1 piston shows evidence of scarring, possibly from someone using a screwdriver or dipstick to feel TC or TDC. Its not so bad that I can get a fingernail to grab it, and also the ridges and cylinder walls are nice and smooth. Would this scarring justify a new piston(of course, it would most likely mean all new pistons). I'm considering leaving the bottom end alone because I really think its in excellent shape, other than that piston. Compression was up in the 170's even across the board when it was running not too long ago. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Grimy head, but the bottom end looks pretty clean. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile