Reptoid Overlords

Grimy head, but the bottom end looks pretty clean. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I didn't want to hijack the recent thread about Shell Rotella oil that had started moving away from the Op's topic. So I thought I would ponder this in a new thread. About 3 weeks ago, i switched from modern conventional 10W30 oil to Valvoline VR1 conventional 10W30. This oil was added at the same time i replaced my clutch and replaced some engine oil seals. I'm wondering if the higher ZDDP content of this oil and it's added friction reduction properties have contributed to the drastic improvement in gas mileage or the more efficient(new) clutch set is the culprit. At the time of clutch replacement, i noticed it slipping only once, at which point i removed the trans that evening. It is possible that it was slipping unnoticed until I noticed it that day. The stock flywheel was resurfaced at a local machine shop, but not lightened to the best of my knowledge. But I imagine the resurfacing process inherently takes some weight off. The engine is stock except for EGR delete and Cat delete with 208.000 miles on the clock. I can see no evidence of past rebuilds. Gas mileage went from approx. 17 MPG to 20 MPG. Can this oil improve gas mileage like that? Or is it more likely that the new clutch and slave/master cylinder are responsible?

It was leaking from the output shaft haha. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Worked beautifully, thanks. A bit of detail and it'll be all good. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks. I just ordered it. I'm just going to leave the head on the block on it's stand until the book arrives. Just to make sure I start from square one. A quick question if you don't mind..The transmission from that car is covered in oil and general gunk. It shifted okay when it drove, so i don't plan on having it rebuilt. But I will be re-sealing it. Is there a safe way aside from 100 cheap-o wire brushes and 3 cans of de-greaser to clean the trans casing without getting water/solvents inside?

This is the book I want right? Will it include the F54/P79 era? https://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/how-to-rebuild-your-nissan-datsun-ohc-engine-tom-monroe/1108181332/2679364476363?st=PLA&sid=BNB_DRS_New+Marketplace+Shopping+Books_00000000&2sid=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP164949&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI052C14Dn2QIV05N-Ch3ZCgXAEAQYASABEgJAhfD_BwE

Checked valve lash and compression, went on a drive out to the countryside with the bicyclists all over the place. Noticed a vibration at 50-+ mph. When I got home I opened a beer, started washing it and found that I threw a wheel weight. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

That is saved on my web browser's favorites section haha. Lots of good stuff. I still need to pull the head off. Everything else is off and catalogued. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

The car that engine came out of made it home about 35 miles south of where I live under its own steam. Albeit with poorly functioning electronics. At least the fuel injection computer was operating properly. So I know its a good start because it isn't seized or excessively dirty. I'll read up on that post for sure. The options are pretty wide open and I'll be sucking up all the input I can get. Pretty stoked to get overwhelmed and put practical info to use. I'll get no sleep tonight. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Pulled the F54/P79 out of the parts car finally. Not sure how I want to build it yet. Whether stock or some moderate performance gains. The '80ZX I have on the road now doesn't need rebuild yet, but I believe I've read that the N47 head on that car with a more aggressive cam coupled with the F54 would produce some good performance gains. For now I will break it apart and see what's what. It'll be my 1st L series rebuild. I will be getting ahold of the how to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun L series book for sure. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/d/datsun-pu-l320/6518715350.html Seems one went on sale in my area yesterday.

A Datsun 1300 I believe. Unsure on the year. That's cool you saw one, and on the road no less. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I was wondering if anyone would be able to recommend an OEM style rubber master bushing kit for suspension on my '80ZX. I see a lot of polyurethane sets, which I'm not totally opposed to, but would rather stick with the OEM style bushings on this car. Thanks in advance.

I see what you meant about the dealer plate frames or whatever being pretty cool. Younker Nissan in Renton still exists, but it hasn't been Younker Datsun in quite awhile. Did you drive it all the way from eastside Seattle, over the pass to Yakima?

Congratulations. Looks like a nice open road to test it out and see how fast you can get a ticket in it haha. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Per your previous thread, you have a new distributor with an older ignition control module(maybe I got that backwards)? If i recall there was something about the distributor advance malfunctioning? Has the problem improved, or has it remained the same? I had a similar issue when I first got my '80 ZX. It would stumble at around 1500-2000 RPM under light(casual acceleration) load. Every other position of the throttle was fine. If I accelerated hard through those RPM's, i noticed no stumble whatsoever. I replaced every single connector in the harness and cleaned the FI ground to intake manifold connections. I also replaced the existing TVS with a known working one and bought a new ignition control module. My timing was set to 0 deg. BTDC, so I set it to 12 deg BTDC. I have no idea what portion of that work corrected the issue.

Although I've not done it myself, I believe one adds the resistor inline with the CHTS to remedy a lean/rich fuel condition. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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Yeah..looks to be a KCG10 Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

If my oil pressure gauge is to be trusted, it reads roughly in the middle of the gauge when idling and coasting at normal engine operating temperature. When accelerating, at higher revs over 3500 RPM it drops a bit lower than mid way on the gauge, then evens back to the middle once coasting regardless of RPM(I don't redline it, max RPM I'll do is 5800). Cold idle reads just slightly under the middle point. Learning how to properly decipher the gauge reading has been something I've been meaning to do. I also have been meaning to replace the sender, but a slipping clutch forced oil seal replacements, and I totally spaced on replacing the sender. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I decided to try some Valvoline VR1 conventional 10W30. I have about 200 miles on it since my rear seal/oil pan gasket work. So far I haven't noticed it "thin out" after running the engine for long periods of time like the oils I've used in the past have. Seems like the engine heat would thin it out to the point where I could visibly see it drip off the dipstick as I pulled it out. And the consistency didn't seem right. Now the oil stays the same, or at least close to, the same as when the engine isn't hot. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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[/url] Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile I guess I don't know how to post the actual videos..prob the phones fault. Couldn't be me, or the Guinness.

Have you messed with any of the suspension bushings yet? Perhaps yours are not in need or replacement. My next big project for my running Restoration '80 ZX is to replace all of the suspension bushings and steering parts. I haven't quite decided whether or not to go with the poly bushing/ rubber bushing combo, or just stick to rubber as its not a track car. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'm looking for the passenger side inner lap belt for a federal model 1980 ZX. I believe '79-81 will work. Color is irrelevant. I have an '82 parts car with different shaped buckle(end that snaps in). I can remove the entire seat belt system from it and replace the existing belt in the'80 car with it, but I thought I'd see if anyone has the right lap belt first. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile