Reptoid Overlords

Went on a little drive with the Mrs..got to hangout with a Corvette owner for a bit, and annoy both our girlfriends at the same time. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Replaced clutch/pilot/throwout with standard OEM spec Exedy kit, resurfaced flywheel, installed new OEM rear main oil seal/side seals/oil pan gasket along with transmission mount and engine mounts. I forgot to order some Redline MT-90, and put some dinosaur 80W90 GL4 because I just couldn't wait any longer to go test drive the work. I forgot what a difference that stuff makes. It'll be going back in it soon. Thanks for all the tips,pointers, and advice. That knowledge is worth more than any shop manual. Of course, manuals help. Now its on to eating more $3 per gallon fuel. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Very informative. I've been using O'Reillys house dinosaur 10W30 for the past few oil changes in the Z, Volvo, and Camry I have. Looks like they get their base oils from major manufacturers, but its finished by something called Omni packaging solutions. I've just replaced my rear main, side seals and oil pan gasket, and haven't put oil back in it yet, as I'm waiting on a new clutch to arrive and haven't gotten to it yet. I'm going to do some more research with some links listed in this thread, but will probably switch up to one of the mentioned oils. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Its good to know for next time for sure. I appreciate all tips and shortcuts. It never occurred to me to leave it in place. It did need to be cleaned up a bit though. I discovered that the car had frequent canine passengers at one point in its life. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I already pulled the console off. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I pulled the spark plugs, and was able to turn the engine(in the proper direction). It turned just as it did when I adjusted the valve lash about 2 months ago. It seems probable that the last person that was in there didn't follow the correct sequence/torque specs and they loosened up over time, causing me to get spooked when the engine didn't turn as I broke them free. New seals are on the way, and I decided to replace the transmission mount and engine mounts while its up too. Thanks to all for the sound advice and getting it back on track. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks for all the good information. I will most certainly be following the bolt tightening pattern and torque specification prescribed in the FSM. The rear main seal does not appear to be leaking, but I will take the advice and replace it anyway. From research, it seems I'll have to pay close attention to ensure it seats properly. From the looks of it, now would be a good time to replace the oil pan gasket as well. I will most likely end up replacing all of the suggested seals. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I got turned around, laying on my back, looking up at the rear of the engine. Should've thought it through before posting. Anyhow, I haven't spun the engine in any direction, I rotated the engine about 1/2 inch or so when the flywheel was still on..this would have been the wrong direction. When I get home, I will turn the engine in the direction of operation from the crank pulley and see how it feels. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile Edit: To clarify, the primary question I'm asking is: why was I able to hand ratchet the flywheel bolts out without anything keeping the engine from turning. Now that I have the orientation of proper direction, I should be able to turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar using the crank pulley.

As of now, the transmission and flywheel are out of the car, awaiting clutch parts/flywheel resurfacing. Its the 1st time I have pulled the trans/flywheel out. I did not notice any loctite or any other residue on the flywheel bolts. They weren't so loose that they required zero effort to back out, but the amount of force required to back them out is concurrent with the theory that they weren't torqued to the proper spec..at least from my relatively inexperienced perspective with that part of the car. The transmission removal process went quite smoothly. I took my time, used a floor transmission jack and made sure not to jolt/force anything on removal. I was trying to think of how I might have,even though I thought I was being careful, damaged an internal engine component. But, as I said before, it does turn normal in the proper direction of operation. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

When removing the flywheel bolts, I put a breaker bar in the flywheel teeth to keep the engine from turning. The bar slipped, but I noticed the engine would still not turn as I ratcheted the flywheel bolts out. Apologies, I should've been more specific in the original post. It will spin in the normal direction of operation. Of course, I'm not going to try and spin it backwards to see. I guess I'm a bit worried at how easy the flywheel bolts came out. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Has anyone experienced a situation in which removing flywheel bolts without using air tools does NOT spin then engine without being held? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Ha. If I read it the other way it totally says UNISIA. I'm going to go pull on some doors that say push now. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

It has Visun stamped on it. I googled it and the only related topic it brought up was a Nissan Silvia forum, but no site for a manufacturer. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile Edit: Visiun brand.

The cutch is pretty used up. What brand was installed at the factory? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Oddly, I went and turned the switch that stops the clutch pedal back a few turns, went on the same test drive and couldn't get it to slip. I'm going to pull up the FSM as soon as I can get the kid off the computer from watching princess shows and read about the proper way to adjust the pedal. It didn't seem necessary because I only replaced the master/slave..not the clutch. But maybe the dimensions of the new parts are somehow different, causing the clutch to not fully engage. Not sure how heat had anything to do with it, but there is probably a good explanation. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

That's all very informative. The machine shop who milled the surfaces on my head and exhaust/intake manifolds can probably take it down to 15 or so. Saving me some money in the process too. Like the OP in the thread link, I was also considering exhaust, except I'm looking at MSA from the cat back. All in it would be roughly 800$ for clutch/flywheel. Machining the stock flywheel would free up some funds to get that exhaust note I've always wanted. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I've replaced the slave and master cylinders. The hydraulics are working properly. Sadly, while test driving, I noticed clutch slip at hard throttle. Normal acceleration holds fine. I'm afraid the day I knew was coming was here. No big deal replacing the clutch, but I wanted to ask you guys your thoughts on lightweight flywheels, and whether or not they are a bad idea for a stock L28E like I have. If not, then I would like some recommendations on weight for a stock setup, please. Thanks once again for your time.. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile Edit: I'm looking at Motorsport's Fidanza 10.7lb flywheel coupled with either an Excedy stage 2 or centerforce stage 2 clutch. Perhaps this is overkill for a stock engine.

The Harbor Freight tester JSM mentioned is a vacuum tester and fuel pressure tester in one, and its about 30$ if I remember correctly. I've used it on my Z,Camry, and Volvo and it reads pretty accurate as all those cars run well. You might check ignition timing as well. I bought Harbor freight's xenon timing gun for around 40$ too, and so far it works fine. Good tools to have if you own a Z, or any older car really. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I can't keep the workbench clear, but I've managed to keep the rest of it in decent enough shape. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Thanks. I have ordered both the slave and the master cylinder. I feel like it makes sense to replace both at the same time. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

You guys were right. There most certainly is a leak at the slave cylinder. The Volvo should be back on the road tomorrow, so in the meantime I will remove the one from the parts car and check its worth, and if its questionable I'll order one from rock auto. Hopefully its availability is still reasonable. I'll check the FSM when I get inside to see if there are any additional seals that need replacing along with the slave cylinder. Thanks for the good lead! Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I see what you guys are saying now. Forgive my ignorance and poor use of terminology. That might explain why there isn't any visible leaks on the ground. I'll get back under it here shortly and take a look. Thanks for the good input. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I didn't. The ground at work was wet, so it would've been pretty easy to see the fluid on the ground. I have a little power steering fluid leak, and confirmed that I was seeing that as opposed to any other leaks. I've been keeping am eye on that power steering fluid leak for some time, so im able to pinpoint any other leaks. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile Edit: I drove the car up on some ramps this morning, got underneath it to search for leaks through the system, and also where the trans mounts to the block. Didn't see anything. I removed the starter and observed the flywheel dry, however aside from totally removing the transmission I can't verify the pistion seal at the throwout arm isn't leaking. But the clutch isn't slipping under light or heavy load.

While a distributor is on order for my daily, I've been driving my '80 ZX to work for about 2 days, or roughly 10 miles per day. No problems. Yesterday after it sat at work for about 10 hours(only a slight incline parking,not a steep incline), I went to put it in reverse and the clutch pedal stayed at the floor. There was no fluid visible at the filler cap of the slave reservoir. There was also no fluid visible on the ground. I added some brake fluid, worked the clutch a few times and it went back to normal operation. I thought for sure I had a leak somewhere so I brought it home and put it in the garage. When I got home the fluid level was still exactly where I filled it to. So I decided to recreate the scenario. Drove back to work, turned around and brought it back home again, let it sit in the garage for 10 hours. I checked the level again and it is still exactly where I filled it to. No puddles, no visible leaks in the engine bay or along the bottom if the car. The clutch engages fine and doesn't slip under light or heavy load. Any ideas what might of happened? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

You said all vacuum lines are intact, so I guess you checked the vacuum advance on the distributor? Have you checked ignition timing? Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile