Dogariffic

One question I have relates to the choke. Today is a hot day. Drove the car 15 min. It warmed up. Then after filling with gas. It flooded. Once it did start it had a fast idle. And after about 60 seconds it idled down as if the choke was on. Is it not unusual for the choke to come on in that circumstance.

Get one with all of the kinks or at least as many of the kinks worked as your budget can afford. They are fun to work on. It better to drive.

Have owned it about 6 months. She always ran rich a bit and over time I have replace a lot of items to address this. Over the past two weeks after we added a new 2.5 exhaust system and cherry bomb .... I know we are looking for another option.... the over fueling began to get worse. Finally two week ago she started flooding out at starting and we have been unable to get a handle on it. so things we have done to address the issue. new fuel pressure regulator, Thermo time switch and cold start valve and temp switch, New plugs and plug wires new injectors and injector wiring, All new fuel filters, all new vacuum hoses, high flow air intake, new started and alternator new engine gaskets, new fuses valve adjustment. this morning I pulled he plugs and they were wet. I clean them and she started right up. Went to get ew plugs an then to fill up with non ethanol 91 octane gas and she flooded again . thoughts are welcome.

No slip fit!!! This set up was created for a 240Z not a 280Z....

After searching the forum for 280z muffler I see several threads where others have struggled/complained about these mufflers not fitting on a 280z with standard bumpers. I even saw where Joseph made an apology in the middle of 2016 for the oversight and not noting this system would not fit and tuck up tightly on a stock 280z due to cavity design and bumper mounts. I have no idea why this muffler was sent to me when it was plain it would not fit my car. Really feel misled by the supplier.

Thanks that would be helpful!

These photos look great....I don't think the cavity on my 280Z is the same as the 240 because of the larger 280z bumpers....Don't know for sure about that but it may be part of the problem....

Looks nice....Mine won't tuck up that tight with the piping that came in the kit. And I have to use the offset pipe as the intake and the center pipe as the out pipe to make it fit at all. Had help breaking it down today and could not make it fit any better than the photo above. Motorsport told me the center pipe "HAD" to be the intake but when I called the manufacturer of the muffler Xlerator Big Max they said not so! It is the same blowing either way. The manufacturer also said the noise I hear could very well be a manufacturer defect.....so I will see if I can isolate the sound and get a video documenting to see if I can get a replacement....If not we will run this one for awhile and then get another....Good times!!!

Got you! Thanks....Wish I had seen that before install....although we match except for the offset as the out pipe in this image. I will flop the muffler and see if it makes a difference.

Thanks for the reply! I have checked and no rubbing or touching! And are you saying the muffler should angle (offset) from 1:00-7:00 not 11:00 to 5:00?

That is very nice!

So the exhaust install went well, no major issues....nice deep throaty sound...... But....almost immediately after driving I noticed a noise I can only describe as a clatter coming from the rear of the car. You can hear it at idle....barely and a little when you rev the engine..... but when the car is under load it is much more noticeable. To change the engine gaskets the distributor was removed....so as the noise has a detonation type sound to it I first went there first and asked local professional advice.....their assessment is that the sound is not detonation at all or the u-joints and the drive shaft which I had considered......but their suggestion is that the clattering type sound is coming from the new Motorsport Auto exhaust....specifically the muffler. I have never had a muffler make a clattering sound at idle and then get louder under load. The system is tight under the car with no rubbing and touching of other parts. Next steps are to remove the tip and see if that makes a difference.....then remove the muffler and shake it a bit to see if anything is loose... I called Motorsport and they have been nice about it. They asked that I replicate the sound, record it by video and send it to them.....They have not heard of this happening either. Anyone else ever have a similar experience?

Added the redline shock to the differential and it quieted it down a bit bit not as much as I hoped. I had earlier pulled all carpet and everything from the rear end getting ready to replace it. So I threw some pillows in the back and that actually took care of most of the noise. i plan to add sound proofing soon and think I will be fine. Also replacing transmission fluid with redline mt90.

Adjusted the valves and it cleared up nicely.

Yes. It was resurfaced...and agree, it was good timing....

Replacing the clutch and exhaust system and took a few photos along the way. All has gone fairly smoothly. The flywheel teeth are a bit chewed up in one place. New ring gear ordered. Not sure what caused that but a new starter went on about 3 months ago. Not sure if the old starter drive did the damage or the new starter. The new starter began to make a hard rattle about two days ago....I am working to see if the two events are related....

Nice Freez! yours on the trailer is the same color as my son's 280. He still has the bumpers on though. They will come off during the repainted process I believe. I see your paint clear coat looks like his. We have buffed much of it off in an effort to avoid a full paint right now but not having much luck. I may hit it with some skitch bright then polish and see how it goes.

Thanks. I do use the additional filter and it catches everything. It is helpful to be able to see the residue and I change it about every 6 weeks so far. It appears to be catching less so maybe everything is getting flushed out.

Thanks rcb. I just went to the site and had to hop off....kept finding other things to buy....I will get the fusible links and caps though. And she is pretty much original....Basically, a barn find with my son the third owner! A local car and the second owner knows the first...Even came with the original documents so that is fun. And the valve train noise is really not that bad. I have been a lurker here on the site for several months while my son and I have worked on his Z and seen many of the stories of difficult running cars. We have not had that many issues really. She ran very rough at first ....not really driven at all for over 20 years....but after a couple of bottles of seafoam in the gas tank, and a cleaned out tank...things really improved. (still, some rust coming from the tank, though). Then as she was driven the hose lines that had not been under pressure for very long time started popping......so we replaced every fuel line and every vacuum line, plus new injectors (came with the car), starter, alternator, and added a K&N Cone air filter. Just completed the valve adjustment and it helped things a lot...May continue to refine this adjustment a bit. Fun times!

Thanks for the kinds words "Site". And yes I agree I need the fusible link caps. Actually, I need to go ahead and replace the links as well. Previous owner did not have them and no telling how long they have been exposed. I will post a video of the engine running at some point. Just did a valve adjustment and she sounds great cold, but ticks some when warm...but she pulls nicely. Very pleased wth the progress so far. About to replace the clutch and then move to the rear suspension and the interior last.

Good tip. I used a Kroger Brand...Turned the cover a bit black but it buffed up ok with the skotch bright. Did not seal the cover, though. I will to pop it off in the future and do a really good job.....just want to drive it for a bit now....

Just took a photo. After cleaning...FYI planning to buff the outside with skotch bright in a minute , shoot the outside with a clear coat and off we go. .... if the valve adjustment went well.

Cleaned the valve cover after my first adjustment and see a type of glue holding the baffle in place. It appears to be cracking and a pro said I need to chip it out to avoid pieces falling into the engine and possibly clogging the oil screen. three questions what say you about removing it . Yes or no how would you remove it does it need to be replaced thanks in advance

I think they are all ongoing projects.

Thanks Freez. Do y'all ever get together and chat cars? My son's Z is almost in shape to make that trip. Valve adjustment Sunday, change out the radiator hoses and flush, align the front end and I bet we can make it. Every other hose of any type has been replaced plus injectors, plug wires, fuel lines, filters etc. It would be good to show him some other Z cars so he can understand the community.