Ed

You said the head was checked but not the block. Clean both surfaces, place the head on the block without a gasket. Use some feeler guages and check the mating surfaces. Also check the water jackets on your head make sure that the coolant has clear passages to flow freely.

Jeff, No problem going back. It would have to be this weekend since I don't think I can make it during my lunch break again. It's about a 30 minute drive. When you talk to them ask if they can put the car up on something so that I can poke underneath with a screwdriver. Or maybe he wouldn't mind checking for rust. Ed

Going from memory here but doesn't http://www.zcarparts.com (MSA) sell rebuilt one's?

Jeff, I drove up to the Wrecking yard on my lunch break and took a quick look at the 2+2. Her production date is 9/75. I tried to get a look underneath but with the flat tires I couldn't get a good look. I pulled the carpet back on the passenger side and it looked decent. A little surface rust as you can see in the pictures. Hard to tell the exact condition without removing the tar paper. I spoke to them about the floor pans and they said they would cut out the entire floor, both sides and the trans tunnel as one piece. I told them that we would only want the two separate floors but he insisted that removing it as one piece would be easier (engine, tranny, driveshaft, e-brake?). I wasn't going to argue. I asked him for a ballpark figure on how much and he said you could have it for a couple of hundred bucks. As you can see from the pictures she used to have a sunroof, the windows have also been open for who knows how long. But when I pulled back the carpet it was all dry. You know how dry it is down here in the SE. Anyway if you want to talk to them and get a better price or whatever: Johnny @ Roswell Wrecking Company 5700 N. Main Roswell NM 88202 1800624-0656, (505)622-2831.

That was a great race. I watched bit's and pieces here and there. Love the look of the Austin Martins. Glad to see the Corvettes did so well. And yea, who'd a thought that a diesel would be so bad arse.

Jeff, I'm planning on swinging by there today in a couple of hours. I'll find out the details and take some pictures. Check back tonight. Ed

Drool....

Jeff, there is a 2+2 either a 260 or a 280 can't remember which in Roswell, NM. I briefly looked at her and she didn't look too bad. I can call them on Monday to double check, and inquire about the floor pans. If your interested I can swing by and take some pictures. While were on the subject. What type of diff did the 2+2 have? Ed

PM heading your way.

I've made my reservations and paid my registration fee. Looking forward to going. This will be my first time showing my car at MSA. If ya see me stop by and say Hi. Edit: Had to cancel. I won't go.

I'm no contractor or professional on this subject but, since it seems that everyone agrees you need a sump pump why not just try that first? Maybe this is all you need? If it doesn't work then you start looking into waterproofing the outside.

I replaced my precision seals with the JC Whitney seals mentioned in the #1 post. I ordered two sets, one for each door. There was about 10" left on each side. I cut the begining at a 45 degree angle and started and finished in the top rear corner. The built-in welting worked great, just like the OEM welting. My doors do close a bit better now than before. The JC seals are hollow and compress better than the solid precision ones. However I'm still not 100% happy. I still have to slam my doors. I was hoping that after a while they would relax a bit, it's only been 2 months so I will give it some more time. I still have my original seals back in New York and if my doors are still a pain by the time I go back I will put the old seals back. If you need more than the door seals the precision kit is great because it has about everything. Windshield, hood to cowling, under door, door, quarter window, rear window, hatch and the 3 piece hatch. If you only need to do your doors than I would suggest going with the JC Witney seals. Or OEM. And like Beandip mentioned the precision seals worked great on his 73 on my 73 they didn't work.

Additionally, for those that missed it the # 1 post by deltadawn. Originally started out by saying that she was "Zmefly's" (aka James Burgess) girlfriend and that James had passed away. Bla, bla, bla.

Yea, I was one of the first one's to fall for his scam. This was before I knew he was a scammer. I had a buisness dealing with him. I bought some toyota calipers from him. The transaction went pretty smooth, no problems. So when I heard of his "passing" my natural reaction was that of surprise and sorrow for his family. Then come to find out he was a scam KING.

Someone didn't do their homework.

Yea, leave it to a salesman to mess things up. I can't remember the number of times that I've gone to buy some brake pads and mickey mouse will try and sell me those "lifetime guarantee" pads. He just wants me back in a couple of weeks to buy new rotors.

You have to prevent water from getting to your basement walls. This is done by digging around your foundation and either applying a tar base waterproofer or a plastic liner. If you don't have a sump pump then that would be recommended also. There is no cheap alternative. If you try and paint over the cement in the interior the water will still find it's way in. You can try and prevent water from getting to your foundation walls by landscaping and rain gutters but this will only help a little.

Whatever you do you should also seriously think about putting a kill switch on the car somewhere.

Thanks for sharing.

Are you turning the crankshaft bolt in the clockwise direction?

Don't throw fuel on the fire. You're 20 now and YOU should be the bigger man. Do what your Dad asks. Incorporate your own plans AND have a good time. When your Dad wonders what happened tell him the truth. That he forgot your birthday and that it hurt you. Don't take it out on your little sister she is the innocent one here. Oh yea, one more thing. Happy Birthday!

The exterior looks o.k. hard to see the small details. I'd like to see the interior and the engine bay. Also besides the tranny and the head, has the car had any mechanical work done to it in the last five years? Brakes, clutch, water pump, alternator, etc... so far looks like a real good candidate for a restoration. Let's see some more.

Some good advice from everyone. Question is what do YOU want to do. Work on them yourself and learn? And spend some more money getting them working right. Or send them in and get a set of rebuilt ones. The one's from Z therapy look and work like new ones. From the springs to the screws everything. They will also replace that worn out throttle shaft with a stainless shaft on sealed bearings. This alone is worth the job. If your throttle shafts are worn then they will leak air (vacuum leak). I opted to do the work myself (something I enjoy) it took me quite a while and I ended up sending the body of the carbs to Ztherapy to have the shafts replaced. Everything else I learned and did myself. If I had to do it again I'd probably do the same thing. $.02

Wow, Sorry to hear your getting rid of your beloved Z. I know you've put a lot of work into her. Good luck and I hope she gets the home she deserves.

When the Z engine overheats the head ends up warping. Usually causing the head gasket to fail and allowing water into the #3 or #4 cylinder. If you had a cracked block wouldn't the water be leaking on the outside?