Ed

Edelbrock O2 sensor with monitor .

Oh boy! The memories . I'm glad my Zed wasn't that bad.

Thanks for the link but it doesn't answer what I'm looking for. I know it was painted black for contrast reasons. But my main question is "Which colors and years had this area painted?"

Take a box knife and carefully cut the rubber around the stainless trim until it practically falls out. Try not to bend the stainless trim because if it's deformed then it will be a pain to re-install. To remove your windshield use the same method. Take the box knife and cut the old rubber seal around the edge of the windshield until you can lift the windshield out of the car. Once the windshield is out you can remove the rest of the rubber. Installation is a whole different ball of wax. I would highly recommend that you have a pro do it. The new seal is what is known as a "dirt seal" if anyone talks about using silicone to install your new seal then go to someone else. Silicone should never be used on the windshield of the Z.

I've noticed this also on a few early (70 model) cars. Flat black hand painted.

Here is the picture:

Ian, if you have the space... What I did to help finance my restoration was buy a parts car. I paid $400 for it. The parts I didn't need I sold. The parts that were better than the one's on my car I used. Which saved me some money on buying new. Like glass, taillights and some interior parts. I sold as much as I could and made my money back plus some. Good luck and take your time.

I was looking at some pictures of a restored Z. Though I doubt it was painted the original color (red) it had the front of the radiator support painted black. Now I know some of the early Z's that were lighter in color (green, white, yellow) had the radiator support painted black at the factory. I was wondering which years or colors had this painted? Anyone? I'll try and find a picture to post.

Santa, will you bring me some Datsun car parts? Merry Christmas to all!! And Happy Holidays to others!

My 73 had the same factory brackets but no sway bar. I found a sway bar on a 74 that fit like a glove. I'm very happy with the improved performance of putting it on.

Hard to tell if they are both 3 or 4 screw. And you are correct the 3 screw came later. The reason it appears that the bowls are on the same side is because one is facing up and the other down. Notice the butterfly valve of the one on the left and the one on the right is the piston.

Brake booster paint is ruined by leaking M/C.

Interesting point.

If you could get some pictures, that would help.

There was a noticiable difference between the boosters of my 72 and 73 the 73 being larger. I never measured them, sorry.

Use the claw end of your hammer with a small block of wood.

Jeremy, It doesn't hurt to have extra parts. If you can get the spare block for a decent price, go for it. Rebuild it, balance, paint, rings, bearings etc.. This way you will have a completely rebuilt engine. Then when you have time take the old block apart and see what the problem was.

WOW, after reading the link I definately want to do this. Thanks for the read.

You watch Oprah?????

I think renting a tow dolly and hiring a tow truck cost about the same. Just less hastle with the tow truck.

Wow, Thanks for all the info. There is definately more to this than I what I thought. Looks like I have to learn a bit more about this. Like previously mentioned my engine is mostly stockish. SU's, 270 cam, headers, 9.65:1 compression, mild porting. So the main reason for me wanting to install a sensor would be for tuning purposes. I want to adjust the mixture for best fuel comsumption without burning up the engine.

Here is a pic of mine build date 6/73.

I think I read somewhere that rattle can undercoating is porous.

I think it was around 80-90$ a gallon. And yes I used a gallon and one quart (I doubled the application in the wheel wells).