Ed

I was a little dissappointed with the show. But the Zed was sweet! :laugh:

Dude, put the bumper back on.

I went through a local rubber manufacturing company. They made a mold and then produce these grommets. I've been selling them to who ever needs them. There's one on e bay right now.

Victoria British has both the poly bushing kit part # 62-455. I can't find a kit for rubber. Get their catalog. MSA should have them also. Rubber is more pliable then the polyurethane. Replacing with poly will make your suspension ride a little bit harsher or more responsive. It all depends on what your looking for. Autocrossers and racers will use poly to be able to "dial in" their car and not have to worry about the suspension components moving undesirably. If your going to use your car to drive around the city or the country road and not do anything "aggressive" stick with the rubber. It will give a smoother ride. Or you can do what I did and mix. I used rubber on the suspension (for a smoother ride in a straight line) and I used poly on my sway bars and steering rack. For a stiff car when I'm cornering. It's basically personal preference.

I forgot about this thread. Anyway my search has ended. I had to have them made because they are not available.

Park it on a flat surface. Measure the distance from the top of the spring to the bottom, both sides. If it's off, take it to a shop that can do frame allignements and have them check it. Might just be a sagging spring.

Do some research on the "spindle pin puller". You will be glad you did.

Hey Marty, During my restoration I found overspray on some of the plastic interior pieces. I tried some solvent but that would discolor the plastic. Long term effects?? Who knows. The only thing that worked good was water and a set of brushes. You can usually buy them in a set from automotive and hardware stores. One nylon, one brass and one stainless steel. Start with the nylon, hopefully it will come right off. If not move up to the brass. The brass will scratch the plastic so be carefull. If it still won't come off then use the stainless brush. The stainless brush will remove plastic material, kind of like sand paper. Don't use it too long. Use small circular strokes. Then protect it using your favorite protectant (armor-all, formula 2000, etc..) Only you will know where the overspray was when your done.

I can't remember either. Try measuring the coupler and the hole to see if it will fit through.

Good deal! Then I would go with the green. That with the CF hood. Good contrast.

Don't forget to set your VCR or Tivo. Tomorrow, Thursday 10pm ET. CBS.

Not much help here but, the rings are stainless steel. I have one extra. If someone can't get you a pair then I'll sell you my single.

What's the condition of your suspension? Could all your flex and rattle be coming from suspension components that are old and worn out? My Zed when I first got her felt loose and rattled. But once I changed all my bushings, u-joints, shocks, springs, ball joints, and tie rod ends she feels as stiff as a board. Look at the upper rear portion of your door. Right below the windows. Is the paint chipped? If there was flex in your body then the doors would hit in this area causing paint to chip. The upper strut bars will help stiffen your body. But I think it's for lateral support. You racers out there please correct me if I'm wrong. Also do a search on upper strut bars. They have been discussed before and If I remember correctly there was a really good write-up about them.

Whenever I hear someone wants to change the color of their car I can't help but wonder. Is it going to be a proper paint job? You have to remember that the door jambs and the engine bay will always remain the original color. Unless of course you paint those too. In my opinion keep it the original color. Silver always looks good.

I thought the paint looked pretty good for having been around the block a few times.

0006 was at the last convention. There are more pictures of her in the convention photo album.

Poor girl, all naked. She looks to be in great health!

No such animal. Take your old radiator to a radiator shop an have it boiled out and rodded. She will be as good as new.

Glad to hear that your taking the right steps to a proper restoration. One suggestion that I have is try to remove as much of the Ziebart as possible before it goes to the blaster. That way the blaster can really clean the body properly. Otherwise you might be stuck taking it back. And keep us updated with your progress. I will be glad to help you where I can.

Yes. Just pour it in.

A quart of tranny fluid will work as well. It is very high in detergents and is equivalent to 20wt. It will clear any stuck rockers and such.

Don't get me wrong. You can set the valves to where they are close to correct with the head off the block. But you will have to adjust them again once the head has been installed. So instead of doing it twice just install the head and do it right the first time.

Yes, it means it's leaking. Either under the car at the slave cylinder or inside the car at the back end of the master cylinder. Like previously mentioned replace them both. Use a flare nut wrench so you don't strip the flare nut.

Wait until the head is on the block. Do it right the first time.