Ed

Thought I would bump this back to the top. To remind you ALL of the convention. C-ya there!

Good advice, ALWAYS choose someone with experience to press out wrist pins. Done wrong or by a Mickey Mouse mechanic your looking at terminal engine failure.

The amount gained is relative to the amount ported properly, done wrong you can reduce flow caracteristics. But to answer your question, just cleaning up the casting slag, making a smooth transition from intake runner to head to valve seat. Maybe 5-10 hp (just guessing). I don't have any dyno results to prove it.

Yes, there are switches there. I have modified my plate for these switches which control the power windows.

Wow! That IS one beautiful interior! But my console looks like this.

The turbulant (sp) air suspends the gas molicules better. On an intake runner with smooth surfaces the air/fuel mixture will "pool" on the runner walls especially durring decelaration. Then when you accelerate those pools will be sucked into the chamber causing a rich mixture. Like prevously mentioned, clean the area where the runner makes the transition to the seat there is usually a lip there. You can also clean some material away from the valve guide. Here is a picture of my exhaust. Before and after. And here is the intake. Also before and after.

Occasionally you will see a center valance on ebay. I've got the corners where the turnsignals go. In really good condition if your interested in those. Edit: sorry for the double post.

Occasionally you will see a center valance on ebay.

I would have to agree with everyone also. VIN#'s are just numbers. That car sounds like a piece of work. I just spent two years on a restoration. AND I started with a driving car that was in great shape (VIN#165,xxx). I couldn't imagine working on a car as you described. From what it sounds like the entire enterior needs replacing, suspension needs rebuilding, engine, tranny, carbs, etc....Buy it as a rolling shell. About $500.

G'day to ya too! This looks curious indeed. Was it bare metal under the tar paper? When I stripped the tar paper off mine there was the factory dipped primer. The beige color primer. You can also tell that they applied the tar paper over the primer then painted it color. That's why there are "patches" of paint.

Old battery cables. Replace with some new ones. Clean the contact points with some sand paper.

Well, I talked to the service tech and we went through a system test and the result was that the module is working correctly. He said it is probably the relay. I tried a different relay (same brand) and it did the same thing. So I took the relay off the car to do some testing. With power to 85 & 86 the relay was closed at both positions 87a, 87 & 30. With no power to 85 & 86 the relay was open at both 87a, 87 and 30. I take it it's not supposed to work like this?? Should the relay alternate, open-closed, 87a-87? And vice versa? Thanks for the help.

I moved the wire from 87a to 87 and it still does the same thing.

Here is a picture of the wiring diagram. It's connected just like it shows.

I installed a keyless entry system in my car. Autoloc model KL 550. Does anyone have any experience installing these or a similar system? Everything went really good. Power door locks work great. Parking lights flash when system is activated and deactivated. My question is on the starter/ignition kill. I don't know if I have some wires crossed or backwards or what but, I unlock the doors, get in the car, sit down, then when I turn the key, nothing. Then when I activate the system and lock the doors, turn the key and she fires right up. Is this supposed to work like this? I was hoping it would be the opposite where the system (doors) are unlocked for the engine to turn over. The way it is now the system (doors) are locked for the engine to turn over. Also the system has a valet switch, how does this work??? Their tech support desk doesn't open until Monday. I hope someone can help me before then. Thanks Ed

The car takes just one. It's under the battery tray.

I don't understand what you mean by "in pairs"? Are you talking about a split boot?

Heat up the con-rod to expand. Freeze the pin to contract. Use a cradle to support the piston.

Don't they call it the "Mach 5"?

Here is a picture of the finished product. It took a while but I'm very happy with the result. I'll take a few to the nationals with me if anyone wants to check them out.

Don, I was in the same boat several years ago when I was rebuilding my SU's. I couldn't find replacement bushings or the shaft. I got a lot of they don't make those anymore. So I went to a couple of machine shops to see about having larger bushings made and machining the shaft. Think about it. In 20 years you will be doing it again because it would wear out again. So I thought about using some bearings. Try finding those. At the end of my quest I ended up going with the rebuilt bodies from Ztherapy. Sealed bearings & stainless shaft you can't beat it. Everything else I rebuilt myself. Ed

Pardon my ignorance but, how many miles would they ride each day? And how many day's total is the entire tour? Or the total miles of the tour and how many day's?

Thank You Jeff, I got it, and now she is running. I finally heard her roar after two and a half years. Yaay..