Ed

Try this link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18761&page=2&highlight=door+rubber

I'm going to guess and say you got your weatherstripping from too intense. Either way there is no quick easy fix. Once you do a search you will see that we've discussed this topic quite a bit. MSA sells some rubber that will be softer and compress more.

What's up with all the oil spray on the front crossmember and steering rack?

Rebuild kits (gaskets, rings & bearings) are also available through your local auto parts store. Not the head though.

I had a similar situation. Diff ran dry and started to howl. Filled it back up and it still howled. Had to replace the diff. Cheaper than having it rebuilt.

Freeplay in the U joint is something you definately want to address as soon as possible. No matter what kind it is, side to side or fore and aft. There should be none. On my car I have "flat head" bolts on the diff side that do not require any type of tool to hold it. The head itself touches the side and prevents turning. You might have the wrong bolts.

Looks like a solid car.

Depending on how much is available from the L28 you might also consider the distributor, cam, oil pump, transmission and differential.

You can start by refurbishing your suspension components. Replace those old worn out bushings and shocks. Clean and repaint A arms and strut tubes. This will give you a solid foundation to do whatever you choose and it will give you time to figure out what you want to do. If you decide to do any kind of restoration down the road your suspension will already be done. Also start buying parts now.

Try http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=3499

Just to get everyone up to speed you should give a quick breakdown of the work performed to the engine. I remember you were replacing the head. You should run the engine for a couple hundred miles and let everything get seated. Recheck the rocker to cam gap. Then do another compression test. If it is still low do a leak down test to determine if the valves aren't seated properly or you have a bad ring.

Will, Unless you are planning on putting in racing seats just enter your car in the Nissan Modified class. I went through the same ordeal before my first ZCCA show. What is considered a modification? Big question really. What might be considered a modification to one is not to another. You can always change your class the day of, if a Judge feels you qualify for another class.

The ring end gap for the top comression ring is 0.005 in. for each inch of bore. 0.004 for the second comression ring. If you have 3.386 of bore X 0.005 = 0.0169 in. for your top ring end gap. We must assume that the bores are round and have little or no taper. A bore with 0.001 taper will give about 0.003 variation in the end gap as the piston moves up and down the cylinder.

Dissassemble one carb at a time. Clean it. Then you can use the other carb as a referance when you reassemble.

I have an L28/N42 combo sitting in my garage, dished pistons. If your interesed in it send me a PM.

Congratulations Will, your going to have your hands full at the convention with so many mouths to feed.

After the car has warmed up how does she perform? Does she start right away? How about after sitting for 30 minutes? When was the last time a tune-up was performed? Fuel filter, spark plugs, etc...??

That looks like a great solution! Good job! One thought though, I'm assuming that the inside of aluminum soda cans have some kind of lining so the aluminum will not contaminate the beverage. If you rub this lining with steel wool to polish the aluminum you will remove the lining. And eventually over time the aluminum will tarnish with exposure to moisture making it dull.

Take your cracked tube and have it welded.

You can also try white paint. Here is a link to thetaillights that I did. Before and after. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=15248&cat=500&ppuser=1052