Ed

Here are the pics of the battery tray. The last one is from the underside wheelwell area. I scrapped it with a screwdriver and it felt pretty solid. It would definately have to be taken appart and cleaned.

Nice, one can dream

Yea, I've never seen stealth mirrors before. :laugh:

On my engine which took me almost a year to complete I would spray WD-40 on a regular basis and very liberally all over the engine. Then I would bag it in a 39 gallon trash bag. The bores I wiped down with motor oil just in case. I never had any problems. I would spray WD-40 all over (especially in the bolt holes) then wipe it down with motor oil, then bag it. Ed

Hey, the tool compartment doors (the ones behind the seats) are intact. Anyone need to replace some speeker hole ones?

I'll get a better picture soon and I'll scrape away at the surface rust to make sure that there aren't any rust through holes. If it looks good to you take the picture and draw a line where you want me to cut. Price? it all depends on how long it takes me and a sawzall .

It's broken. There is one on ebay right now.

Oh, o.k. I was thinking the body :stupid: Do you want the glass too? They all look pretty good. On the ebrake the grip and the chrome look good. I looked at the HVAC area from the interior, there is rust where the vertical portion meets the bottom. I haven't looked at the part under the cowling. Send me a pic of what you need. Ed

Go back to my post # 17 to see the finished lenses. Pic # 1 is just the passenger side clean and the drivers original. Pic #2 is both rebuilt and ready for installation. Pic # 3 is right before assembly. I painted the inside of the housing next to the reflectors white, what a difference.

Zup, I'll get that radiator out and packaged up for you along with the fuel filter bracket. The rear tail light finisher's don't look too good. I'll cut them out and give them to you, then you can be the judge.

Eric I have one available. It's from a 72 (a little different than the 73) the mounting plate is plastic vs. the metal one on a 73 and the foot pedal portion is one flat piece of sheet metal vs. the stamped piece welded to the flat piece of the 73.

These pictures are not for the faint at heart. This is what happens to the undercarrage of your car when you drive it in Buffalo, NY. salt,snow,time etc...

Here is a picture of the engine bay, there is the radiator that's still available, distruibutor (points) and the engine & tranny. Interior, steering column, heater core, seats, headliner.

Jason, I'm sorry my bad. It's a E88 not a E31. I'll edit my original post. Will, The drivers side quarter window frame looks real good, no signs of rust the passenger side has two bubbles that I can tell. I'll have to pull the windows to be 100% on the condition. I'll get back to you with the condition of the brake handle (more than likely it will be rusted down in the transmission tunnel. The HVAC area I will look at later. Texasz, The battery tray is not rust free. It is in decent shape. There is a little bit of rust where the tray meets the fender well. Sorry the picture isn't so good maybe later in the day when the light changes.

I'm getting close to getting rid of my 72 parts car. There are a few things left that I'd like to see go to a good home instead of the crusher. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. Some items left: L24 with a E88 head (condition unknown, turns over) 4 speed (condition unknown) R-180 (ratio unknown) All suspension components (mostly rusted) Gas tank (exterior rusted, interior unknown) Steering column E-brake handle Both seats (backs o.k., seats ripped) Some of the interior pannels, black, fair condition Some glass Window mechanisms I will also take requests on any sheetmetal parts that anyone wants, for instance the battery tray/firewall area is in decent shape, no rust through holes. The quarter windows appear to be in good shape also. This was a northeast car and the salt roads did it's job on the metal.

Is this one of those weekly car shows? Where about is it?

When I reassembled mine I did just that one layer at a time. As you add a layer try and push the shaft into the bore a little to move the balls down. I had trouble getting the last layer of balls to fit. It was a pain. Pushing, pulling, trying to get it all together. But once it was assembled it worked just like it was supposed to.

I agree with Carl, there is no reason you couldn't re-use the old bolts. As long as they aren't rusted or deformed. If any, the only bolts you might want to replace are the flywheel bolts. But I've re-used those many times without any problems.

At first I didn't bench bleed the M/C. I also used a vacuum pump to bleed the brakes (my first time). I was sucking air bubbles for hours. I went through about 30 oz. of brake fluid. I moved around to all the wheels and nothing but bubbles. I was pulling out my hair. I thought it was because I didn't bench bleed the M/C. So I pull it and bench bleed, what a mess. I then started over again. Bleed, bleed, bleed, bleed still more air bubbles. WTF :mad: The brake felt good and solid but why so many air bubbles???? So I decided to go the old fashioned way and had the wife pump the brakes while I manually bled the brakes. After a few minutes I was done! Take that you silly vacuum pump. Later I decided to re-read the instruction manual for the vacuum pump. And I noticed one little sentence that I didn't pay attention to the first time; "It should be noted that a tiny stream of bubbles may be noticed in the hose after all of the air is bled from the lines. This is caused by air seeping around the threads of the loosened bleeder fitting and being drawn back through the fitting by the suction of the pump." :stupid: Atleast I'm done.

What happens when you DON'T bench bleed your master cylinder before you install it?

Hey Matt, No telling if your head has been milled before. Take your head and have the head cc'd. Calculate your current c/r and go from there. Once you know what you have you will be able to plan on what to do. Do you already have a particular head gasket in mind? They all provide different c/r's. Do your math first then mill. Ed

Dude, breaks not beaks.

I have all the wiring harness on my 72 parts car available if you need one.

I'll second that!