Ed

Yea! :classic: what he said.

Like already mentioned. Take the head and the block and have them checked to make sure both mating surfaces are flat. Also have the head pressure tested. You might have a crack that is unnoticeable. Tell the shop your taking this to that you have a coolant leak and that your blowing steam. If both check out o.k. then reassemble using a new gasket. Inspect the threaded holes in the block and make sure that the bolts go in all the way and that there is no binding to cause a false torque reading.

Gary, What is wrong with the turbo 280 ZX? Is it just a bad, or missing turbo? I think that if you did do the N/A thing somewhere down the road you will want to upgrade. More horsepower. More, more, more. If you have everything except the turbo then I would say go turbo. Most people would have upgraded the turbo or replaced it by now anyway. You could sell your N/A stuff from your car and use it to finance your rebuild. The new turbo will cost some $$ but if you save your pennies now it won't be such a shock. Go to the HybridZ.org site and search their forums. They have sooooo much engine info you will be reading for days.

It sounds as if you bought it. I hope you did! Congrats thats a nice car. I expecially like the way he did the headlight covers without any trim. Enjoy!!!!

I need a bigger yard. But then again my wife would kill me if I had another parts car.

I recently received a timing cover gasket set from Victoria British, part # 53-702 manufactured by ROL gaskets (hecho in Mexico). While I'm fairly pleased with the overall set there is one problem. On the gasket that goes on the left side of the timing cover (if your standing in front of the car looking at the front of the engine) there is a hole in the gasket for one of the oil gallery's the one I'm talking about is the one that goes from the pump to the filter. This hole is cut in the wrong place it is off by about 1/4 of an inch or 2 mm. Now this will probably not affect engine performance too much but it will restrict oil flow. I took a sharp knife and cut the gasket to fit.

Awesome! Thanks Alan

I'm just guessing here but, from the prices that you were quoted I'd guess that those were OEM or original Nissan seals. There are aftermarket seals available for half that price. Which one is better? OEM more than likely, but the aftermarket ones are pretty good copies. Your going to get different oppinions on this. Some will say that the aftermarket ones are junk others will say they have had no problems with them. I think a lot depends on how good of a job you do putting them on your car.

Sport Z did a write up on this kit a few issues back. The flexible S/S line is designed to bolt directly to the caliper (that's why it's so long). Like you said make sure you route the lines properly so they do not rub against anything or get a knik when your steering lock to lock.

Welcome to the club. That 73 looks real nice. Take care of that rust ASAP! You don't want that going through the metal. As far as how long an L series engine lasts, I've only blown one . It was on the original L24 in my 73 and she broke an exhaust valve. The odo read 140k (don't know if that was really 140 or 240) and she burned about 1qt every 3k. Ed

That's a real nice looking car. Take your check book with you on Friday.

Well put Ben.

The push button latches can be dissassembled and cleaned. You should be able to restore them to perfect working condition. As far as the belt material, I hate to say "do a search" but there was a topic a while ago that had a link to a company that would take your old belts and replace them with new material. And if you want a retractable set from a 260 or 280 2+2. I'd say call some junk yards. Try Zcarsource . Good luck.

What's the difference between a thermal flasher and an electronic flasher?

Hmmm, I tried the same set-up on Chris' diagram. The light bulb just dims about 50%. It's a brand new flasher but I'm taking it back.

Anyone have an idea of how to test a turn signal flasher to see if it's working properly? I just bought a brand new flasher. When I installed it the turn signals stay on and don't flash. I tried testing it like this: first I connected a wire to the negative terminal on a battery, the other end of the wire went to the flasher, from the other terminal on the flasher a wire went to a light bulb then to the positive terminal on the battery. The light just stayed on, no flashing.

Use the coathanger. Put a 1" 90 degree bend at the bottom (L shape). Slide it between the glass and the rubber trim. Point the bend towards the rear. Go down about 18". Try grabbing the lock mechanism as it comes from the keylock. You can also remove the rubber trim so you can see what your doing.

Kats, I too was wondering a lot about what the judges look at and what is permitted. I will be entering my freshly restored car at the nationals this year for the first time. And I wanted to know what kind of changes could someone make to their car and not be penalized for it. I read through the ZCCA judging manual and realized that it was not very clear. I think they did this on purpose. By leaving the rule book like it is the ultimate decision us up to the judge. You have to realize that every judge is going to be different. You can have five different judges look at your car and each one will notice something different or not notice it. Some judges will know that the hub caps are not correct for that year, other judges might not know. Like 26th said only the obvious is seen. Car shows are for you to show off your car and your hard work. And to admire other people's work. Everyone should get a trophy for having a 30 year old car that still runs.

Looks like swiss cheese. Frame rails in the engine bay are gone. If he sell this I will sell my rust bucket parts car.

Ennn Eye See EEE !!!!

Exsqueeze me? Bacon powder? There are benefits to EACH year of the 240. From the 70 to the 73. Saying that one is least desirable, I don't thinks so. The 73 IMO has better safety standards with the better crash bars in the doors. It also has the reclining seat mechanism, illuminated heat panel cluster and rear sway bar brackets. The one downfall is it's conformance to emmision standards of it's time (carbs) which most likely have been modified by someone to the earlier carbs. Not picking on you Ron but I've heard this too many times.