Ed

Anyone have a Mustache bar for a R-200 that will fit my 73' laying around that they want to sell or trade?

Yea I got that from there web site.

Thanks for the advice, I had some Trestor "paint brush cleaner" (the plastic model kit stuff). Put some on a rag and rubbed it on the overspray. Two hours and a lot of elbow grease later the overspray was gone. And it didn't discolor the plastic! Looks great. Then I set it down next to it's sister to compare and I notice that they are identical. Hmmm, are they the same? Can't be. So I compare it to the beat-up ripped one that I was replacing and it's different! I did the wrong one :stupid:

Thanks Carl, that's good advice. I was eyeballing the "kits" sold by VB and the ones sold on e-bay. The price on those is around $200 bucks. The kit from precision is $487.38. Quite a difference. Haven't bought any yet. I remember the complaints about people not being able to close there door without slamming it. Were those inferior seals?

I've seen them gloss black, satin gloss black, flat black etc... Anyone know the original correct color??

Try either MSA or Victoria British . Some gaskets are available through your local auto parts store.

Who is a supplier of sheet rubber? I was on a quest not too long ago to replace the rubber "gasket" that is on the steering column. I found a 6"x6" square at ACE hardware. Not too many hardware stores carry the stuff.

6' 1" here and I don't even have the seat all the way back. Getting in and out is a different story.

I took the fresh air inlet (inside engine bay, between the radiator support and the inner fender) off my parts car because it's in better condition. The only problem is it has some overspray on it from the last paint job. Any suggestions on how to remove the paint without damaging the plastic?

What about the gasket for the license plate lamp?

Most of your own personal tattoo's depending on location can only be enjoyed when viewed in the mirror. Since I will be the one looking at my tattoo the most, why not have it in a way that I can enjoy it. The location I have chosen is the backside of my forearm. Hard to see unless I look in the mirror.

Try using a 2lb hammer. Set your 1/2" ratchet up so that it's in the 10-11 o'clock position. Get a good swing and hit the ratchet at the end. Be careful. Don't miss. If you have a Craftsman 1/2" drive ratchet even better. If it breaks you can replace it for free. This worked for me. I couldn't get an impact in there either because of the radiator support.

Sorry Vicky, seems like I stole your thread.

Perfect. Thanks Chris. Good to see I won't be the first. Except I'm going to do mine mirror image. This way I can enjoy it.

While were at it could someone post a picture of the "Z" logo. I've been trying to find one that isn't partially obstructed. Can't find one in the gallery either. I want to print one and get a tatoo. :classic:

I would think that the guys over at Nissan did there homework when it came to choosing what combination of size intake/exhaust valves works the best (in a stock application). So I would go with large on both sides.

Metric lines with the nuts are available at NAPA.

I asked a guy who used to converts Z's into drag cars the same question. He had one at his shop that he was working on so the subject came up. Besides stiffening the rear of the car with a roll cage he said that the stock diff on the Z could hold up to some serious HP. He frequently intalled big block's into these cars with the stock rear end. Converting the stock R-180 to a R-200 would provide piece of mind if you don't trust the stock diff. Using a rear end from a camaro would be a "Monster Garage" type job. Not only would you have to shorten the width but attaching it to the body would require some work. Talk to the guys at HybridZ and see what they suggest.

I must agree with Stephen. I started out with the flat tops on my 73. Over time they slowly deteriorated (cold starts were a pain). I worked on them trying to improve there performance but the parts were expensive and hard to obtain (compared to the round tops). But they did work. Once I replaced them with my rebuilt round tops I can honestly say there was no performance gains. Which do I like better? The round tops. Why, because they are easier to work on. Which is why they are more popular. Try adjusting the float on the flat top.

In 73 the emission laws changed and affected the 73 Z. The flat top carbs were designed to meet those emission requirements. You will notice that the flat tops are almost impossible to work on. It's even harder to find parts. Like everyone has told you the round top carbs are a much more desirable carburator. They are easy to work on and are very good. If your flat tops are still working keep them on your car for now. Rebuild the round tops or get them replaced by Ztherapy like Carl suggested. You can't beat there work, anywhere. Once you get the round tops done you can throw those flat tops in the trash.

I remember seeing a member's picture here that had his engine bay done with the soda blasting method, sorry can't remember who. It sounds like a less abrasive media vs. sand or glass bead. I wonder though how many times can you re-use it before it turns to dust? I don't know how well it would work for your suspension parts. I think you would want a more aggressive media to clean those parts with. I've been using aluminum oxide and am happy with the results. You can buy a portable blaster at harbor freight $80 bucks or so. Only problem with getting one is then you need a booth or compartment of some kind to do your parts (I converted an old freezer and used my portable blaster). The body shop I took my car to to get painted HIGHLY recommended to NOT blast the body. They say that the heat generated by the blasting process distorts the metal. Do your homework on this. I for one wish I had bought a proper booth instead of converting the freezer. Live and learn I say.

Welcome to the club. I hate to tell you but most of us here don't do the V-8 thingy. But we're sure glad to help with anything else. To get the most help in your V-8 project try the folks over at hybridz . As to the body kits you will find most of them available through MSA get one of there catalogs. Good luck.

I just replaced the u-joints in my driveshaft and half shafts. I did contemplate paying extra and getting the spicer ones from MSA. BUT I ended up going to Advanced Auto Parts and getting there lifetime replacement U-joints for 13 bucks each. These also came with the grease fitting. I am happy with them. I guess only time will tell if they last. The stock one's lasted 30 years.

There are two bearings in the rear hub, the inside and the outside. The outside bearing is exposed to the brake drum, there is no separate seal. So they use a sealed bearing. A bearing that has a plastic cover protecting it. New sealed bearings have this plastic cover on both sides. Which makes them impossible to lube. The stock bearing is sealed only on the outside. Sorry, it's a little hard to explain but when you take your hub apart you will see what I'm talking about. If no one knows the spec #'s then you might just want to order them from VB. BTW an impact gun will be your best friend when your doing this job. And you will need a bearing puller or a press. Good luck.

I'm mostly insulating against noise. I'd like to be able to have a conversation without having to yell. I'm also going to insulate against heat. You know, the right foot feels like it's on fire after driving for a couple of hours in the hot weather. Maybe that's just my car but the trans tunnel by my right foot was always very hot due to the exhaust running close to it. I'm also going to insulate the inside of the doors to try and get rid of that tin can sound when closing the door. 26th- here is a link. And FYI there product is cheaper on e-bay.