Ed

It depends on what your plans are. Restoration or a driver? IMO this car has seen a few salty roads in it's lifetime. Maybe one to many. You can clearly see the rust spots. As any member will tell you where there is a little there is a lot. Some spots I noticed is the left rear trunk lid area. Clearly somone has used somekind of filler to hide the rust through spot. Another is the drivers side dogleg (lower corner behind the drivers door) those bubbles in the paint are rust. The area in the passenger sided wheel well by the brake bracket. Is that rusted through? There appears to be a hole. Some of the undercarrage pictures would send me running. I know that your looking for a car, but my advice would be to go and see this car personally, get on your hands and knees and probe the undercarrage to see the extent of the rust dammage. turk1.bmp turk2.bmp turk3.bmp

I've noticed that a lot of different people who put polished valve covers for sale on ebay always say that the cover has been media blasted or glass bead blasted. Anyway this is a great way to clean up the outside. But the problem is when they do the inside. Blasting media gets stuck to the sludge on the inside of the baffle plate and stays there. Rinsing with water does not remove the media. You have to remove the baffle plate and use a stiff brush to clean it. The last thing you want is some of this media coming loose and flowing through your engine. $.02

Looks like the bumper guard off a 73 front bumper. There is a left and a right along with the rubber trim. Left and right. One of them is NLA, can't remember which one.

With the steering wheel straight. You look in the engine bay and coming out of the firewall the steering column comes to a u-joint then bolts to the steering coupler. The bracket between the steering coupler and the u-joint. What is the correct placement of the first joint? Is it up-down or side-side? Thanks.

Siren for the car alarm.

Yes sir, this is the 73. (6/73 mfg)

I've got mine disassembled now. The only thing on it is the wheel and the ingition. No turnsignals or switch assembly. And she spins like a top.

Hey, welcome to the club! Quite the set up you've got. What year is she? Let's see those pictures. The cam is going to be up to you. See how she feels at idle, it will run rougher at idle with a big cam but you'll have great power in the 3K rpm range.

I thought the limits are set by the gears in the rack / pinion that's inside the steering rack. The steering column above the coupler can rotate endlessly, can't it? And if it did rotate while the coupler is disassembled then the steering wheel would turn and be misalligned.

Boy this is a scary thread. I actually quit counting after I reached over $10,000 in tools, parts, chrome, wheels, glass, bolts, etc.... I did keep the receipts, that's just a big stack of papers right now and it just gets bigger every day! I think after I get my 5K paint job (I don't have a receipt for the paint yet) that I won't have to spend much more. I'm almost done rebuilding everything. I'm actually running out of things to do. I just need my body back.

Try the high pressure water. I've seen it work and it's the cheapest/easiest way. Don't bother using one of those "car wash" or electric power washers. Those suck 800-1500 psi max. You want to use a gas operated 2500 psi power washer! Start where the paint is peeling and watch it go.

The u-joints that are on the steering colum. Are they replaceable?

Look at the bushings on your steering rack. If those are old and worn then a lot of steering play can come from that. There are replacement urathane bushings available.

Maybe try a high pressure water hose? Can't really think of anything else.

Well since you put it that way. I'm no expert on F/I there for I give this suggestion. Take your car to a garage where there is someone who knows his way around your particular engine. Pay him for his knowledge, and watch him while he works. Ask question and learn. BTDT. I took my car to a shop when I was running out of ideas and I learned more in 15 minutes than I would have after years of playing and experimenting. Consider it money well spent. $.02

Try finding a junk yard in your area. Getting a replacement from a donor car would be a lot cheaper. Where are you located? Maybe there is a member in your area that has a parts car that he's willing to sell the fenders from.

I doubt MSA has these washers (I could be wrong). If you still have the thick washers that came with the stock manifold use them. Grind down one side and your good to go. Maybe someone else could knows where to get some. You could also go to a machine shop and tell them what you need, this might be expensive though. I think your best bet is to grind the original washers. Felpro gaskets you can get at any automotive supply store.

The benefit of painting the panels while they are off the car is that you get paint on all sides, providing additionaly protection against rust. If you had the pieces in primer then re-assembled you would end up with only primer to protect those spots that you could never wax. On the other hand painting the car while it's assembled means there is less of a chance you will ding or chip the paint when you re-assemble.

They require "special" or modified washers to install. They are taller on the header side and shorter on the intake manifold side. If you have the original thick washers you can grind one side down until it fits flush on the stud. I'm sure someone has a picture, there are also some pictures of modified aluminium washers on this site somewhere. What gasket are you using? If you are using the "special" paper gasket that MSA supplies good luck. I've heard more bad things than good. Some people will apply a coating of copper permitex to both sides of the gasket to hold it together. Unfortunately I was one of the people that had bad luck with the gasket. It developed a hairline crack that ended up getting bigger, resulting in an exhaust leak. I've also heard people using the felpro gasket with good results. Edit: Found the washers - here

The price advertised will also tell you what your buying. Anything below 1K. Stay away. 2K worth a second look. 3K worth driving. 4K worth parking outside and showing your friends. 5K+ now your looking at a decent car. Go look at the car, look at several cars. Leave the checkbook at home. If your in doubt about a particular car, post some pictures here and the Z police will point out every little thing. Good luck. Ed

Will, I think it's do-able. To increase the suspension travel shorten the strut housing by 1.5" and all you would need is a shock that is 1.5" shorter than the stock Z strut. Maybe find a suitable strut first, measure the difference and cut the strut housing accordingly. It shouldn't affect the ride height at all. If you wanted to raise the ride height then you would have to either change springs or raise the perch. Let us know which strut you use. Ed

What are they going to do with the car? Do they have a website?

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8967&size=big&sort=1&cat=533 I stole it before the right click lock out.

Butt welds good. Overlapping welds bad. Measure twice, cut once. Don't drink until your done.