Ed

My guess would be that your Ford was originally designed to run with a single carb in the downdraft configuration. The Datsun was not. It was designed with twin sidedraft carbs. If you do a search you will find that not many people have had good luck with them on thier Datsun. Loss of power is the most common complaint. $.02

Oh yea, I'm talking seats, center console, E-brake, shifter, padding, floor mats, everything. It would look like someone cut it out of a car and put it in the living room. Ofcourse it would have cup holders and a tv remote in the console. And some other modifications like a frame with sliders or casters so you can move it around. It's all just part of my dream, along with a warehouse full of Zed's.

I'd like to dress that up and put it in my living room. :classic:

Jason, Unless someone has one already laying around I can pull one off my parts car for you. Let me know if you can't get one from someone else.

Jim, Is it a little black pushbutton switch with two holes that mounts to the choke handle bracket? And has about 10" of wire. If so I have one that's off my 72 parts car that you can have.

After you install them and get ready to put the nut on you need to pour about 1/4-1/2 cup of 20wt oil (ATF) into the housing. This will help dissipate the heat that the shocks produce and also prevent them from accumulating water which would make your new shocks rust. After you do this make sure you keep the strut in the upright position otherwise they will leak.

San Diego has a club . I'm not sure if one of there members is a member here. But, we do have a few San Diego members.

Hello. She looked good until the engine bay :sick: . Also they say the car has had a thorough restoration...... I don't think so.

Another reason not to use WD-40 on your gun: WD-40 is a penetrating oil. Which in plain english means it's a real thin oil. If used on a gun the oil can work it's way into the primer of the bullet, thus rendering the bullet usless. $ 0.02

Make sure your lines aren't rubbing on any part of the body, the vibration would eventually make a hole in the line.

Sounds like the doubt has already been put in your mind. Do like Will suggested and replace that stuff. Piece of mind will give you 95 mph on that back stretch.

From what I understand the bearing isn't bad until it starts to make noise. Now I'm sure that a bearing will be bad and not make any noise but what I'm saying is, when it starts making noise then you KNOW it's bad. My guess would be that you need to re-adjust the castelation (sp?) nut, again. I would think that the nut was too loose allowing the play in your wheel. Sometimes after an adjustment the wheelbearings will "settle". I know some mechanics will adjust the nut by feel. They will torque it down then loosten by 1/4 turn, then spin the wheel and do the final adjustment by feel.

If you are replacing the rotor try using a B.F.H. (big hammer). They do get stuck pretty good. You could also try heating up the rotor with a torch.

Texasz, could you also put the width of the "dished mag" I have 7" and 4.5" and like Bambi said there were different manufacturers so maybe we could add that info also.

Something else to do before assembly is clean the inside of the hub where the S-pin goes. This area gets forgotten and is usually in pretty bad shape. I took a shotgun bore brush. It's make out of copper so it won't dammage the inside. I attached it to my drill and ran the brush through until it was mirror clean. A trial fit of the S-pin comfirmed that everything was moving freely and smooth. Then at final assembly grease it up and insert. The S-pin will rotate freely allowing the lock pin to fall into position. A couple of taps with a brass hammer to get it to fully seat.

I was cruizing around the net tonight and I had a little fun with N.A.D.A. I don't know what that stands for but they provide a price guide for new and used vehicles. N.A.D.A. FYI you can only do five free queries a day. YEAR......ORIGINAL MSRP........LOW...........AVERAGE..........HIGH 1970...........3526...................5750............9300............16,200 1971...........3596...................5550............9300............18,200 1972...........4106...................5600............9350............18,200 1973...........4695...................5000............7975............15,500 1974...........5364...................3200............5150............10,150 1975...........6359...................3175............5300............10,450 1976...........6669...................3375............5650............10,700 1977...........7429...................3450............5750.............9,000 1978...........8878...................3575............5775.............9,200 All values are in U.S. dollars. Low Retail Value This vehicle would be in mechanically funcional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is". Note: This value does not represent a "parts car". Average Retail Value This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be a older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer". High Retail Value This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does NOT represent a "100 Point" or "#1" vehicle*. * "100 Point" or "#1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility. DISCLAIMER: This is for information purposes only. I'm sure your Zed is worth much more :classic: .

Getting the intake welded shouldn't be a problem. Look in the phone book under "welding". The bad thing is the color of the welded aluminum probably won't match and you will loose the textured surface. If you do go this route take a dremmel tool and clean the runner to remove any casting slag or weld. Removing the studs isn't that hard you can double nut the stud to prevent damaging it. Or you could buy new studs at your local NAPA. They cost about $1.00 a piece . Good luck

Those are the correct bumpers for a 73. The rear bumper guards are O.K. It does appear to have been "pushed in" towards the body. Kind of looks a little tweaked. The front bumper is missing the black rubber trim piece that sits behind the bumper in between the supports. Another thing I noticed are the door panels. The chrome strip isn't chrome anymore it's nice and blue. The engine bay looks like it had some silver touch-up paint applied to the heat shield with some overspray. Other than the other things that the other members have pointed out I can't see anything else. Pretty nice car though. Very clean!

The brake light switch is located on the brake pedal under the steering column. I'm no electrician but that's where I would start. Use a voltmeter or tester and follow the wires until you find a drop in voltage. And like Inf mentioned check and clean your connections. Also check your wires to make sure there isn't a short somewhere. You can purchase this stuff called "dielectric grease (sp?)". It's used for ignition wires to prevent corrosion and to aid in conducting electricity. Try putting some of that on the connectors after you clean them.

Your Dad is correct.

C-ya Sunday.

When I did my lines the fuel return line was the only one that was plugged. I tried running a wire through it but I guess it was too thin it went in to the first 90 degree turn and then stopped, and the wire would bend where I tried to push it in. Maybe because it's a real skinny line? Luck for me the plug was close to the end. I poked then I used the compressed air to clear. I noticed that if you blow air at a 90 degree angle to the opening it acts as a vacume and sucks out the debree.

Carl, I was trying to figure this one out and this is what came to me: The arm on the adjuster won't allow it to tighten past a certain point of resistance (shoe on the drum), that's why the "lugs" on the adjuster are canted and not straight cut. If your idea were the case, you could only use the E-brake once in the life of the car.

Symon, I'd be glad to do it for you. PM me with the name of the book, author and your address. I'll order the book for you. Ed

Ooops, glad you caught that Carl, sorry bad idea :stupid: .