Ed
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Everything posted by Ed
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Guus, If your trying to upload a picture make sure it's not too big.
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Jason, I tried getting one from the dealer there in San Diego a while back. They told me I would have to buy the cables as well since it was part of the assembly. Try "All Z Auto Wrecking" they specialize in Z's; 793 B&C Energy Way Chula Vista, CA 91911 (619) 421-5881 / 421-0711. Additionally, I would think that if you broke yours something is wrong. Lube your cables and make sure the links on the carbs are moving freely.
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On my 73 I used the factory mounts. The sway bar came from a 74 260. No problems.
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The headlight retaining rings are indeed stainless. I polished one up and it looks new. They are not pure stainless, thats why the magnet will stick to them. FYI.
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I see your making an invisible car. -
At the body shop where my car is getting painted they have this old Chevy Chevelle SS. The owner had it rebuilt and it looks GREAT! They didn't miss a detail on this car even the tires are stock. There is only one problem with it. The place that did the restoration painted the undercarrage the same as the body. And the frame is gloss black. Both of which came from the factory semi-gloss. So now it's at this body shop getting the undercarrage re-painted. I guess it's nice to have money. If anyone is interested I can try and get some more pictures.
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Here is another view of my baby stripped naked. She was in real good condition only a small spot behind the drivers door had bondo. -
After a couple of days at the body shop. My baby was stripped naked. -
On mine the bolt is welded to the bumper guard. It has a round head and appears to be factory. On the other hand the bolt is about 65 mm long and is a 10 X 1.25.
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The good news is you have a year to look. They pop up once in a while on this site. Surfing this site you will learn a lot about the Z. Look through the gallery and you can drool like the rest of us. Save your penny's cause here's the bad news.... Plan to spend close to 5,000 for something decent. Anything less and Mom won't be happy. Welcome by the way.
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The intake manifold and the balance tube is from a 73. The carbs you have aren't original, looks like they came from a 71 or 72. That aircleaner looks homemade. If you look through the gallery you will see what the air cleaner box looks like. You should be able to use a aircleaner box from 70-72. They show up on e-bay every now and again.
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That's a really good looking Z! Good luck selling it. Have you posted it on e-bay yet?
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16 volts? Seems a little high. Isn't 14 about average? When you melted the unit was it running for a while?
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I'm building a L28 to put in my 73. This is what I've got. Block - F54 Pistons - Flattop Head - N42 shaved .040". 3 angle valve job, match ported to the intake. Headers - 6-1 with 2.5" all the way back to a flowmaster. Carbs - Dual SU's with modified needles Ignition - stock electronic from a 81ZX. Maybe upgrading to a MSD 6a? Cam - undecided. I haven't figured out my combustion chamber cc's yet to get an accurate compression ratio. Can some of you guys post what you have?
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I'm with the Department of Homeland Security (used to be Department of Justice). Federal law enforcement. I'm here to help keep them terrorists out.
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That's nuts!
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Good to hear that you finally got her. Keep us updated on her progress every now and again. I'm sure that there are plenty of us that would be willing to donate something to help bring her back to life.
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Alan, no apologies necessary. I totally agree with you. If we don't keep the information accurate it will change over time thus not being accurate anymore. -
I just looked at other ones here on this website and others. Once I had a good idea of what was needed I bought some 2" steel tubing, a welder and my imagination did the rest. -
I got this from E bay a while back.
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I had a problem with vibration when I turned. It ended up being bad tierods. Have you jacked up the front end and tried to shake the tire. Grab it from the sides and see if there is any play. It might also be the axle shaft bolt is too loose.
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Alan, I fixed the caption.
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After the rusted metal was replaced and butt welded with new metal it was stripped clean. Por-15 was applied over the bare metal. Then coated with the Por-15 top-coat. After that was allowed to dry for a couple of weeks it was roughed up with 100 grit. Then wipped down with Xylene. The bedliner product was applied then. I used a thin coat instead of the usual thick 1/8". -
Two questions, 1. Wouldn't moisture and dirt get into the headlight area by way of the headlight itself. I mean the headlight assembly is "sealed" with a rubber gasket to prevent moisture coming from the wheel well area. But from the area between the headlight bucket, (aka sugar scoop) and the fender there is a gap that will allow moisture and dust to enter the headlight area. 2. Is there a difference between the G-nose headlight cover and the plain Z? I think I know the answer to this one but I want to be sure. It's longer right? Ed
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Yea Mike, you are right, I am inquiring about the retaining ring. I want to have them redone and I can't tell what it is. If it's stainless I could polish them up myself.
