Ed

Thanks Keith, It looks like there is lead filler there. I'm taking my car to the paint shop next week and I'm getting all my ducks in a row. I'm going to have them smooth it out and leave about 1/8" gap.

That would be so cool, imagine that chrome exhaust stack sticking straight up from the engine.

Does the back end of the fender, where it meets the windshield frame have an even gap? On mine the outside corner touches the windshield frame.

Interesting question Glenn, I too was wondering if the internals to lets say a 3.54 R-180 would fit inside a 4.11 R-180 case or vice-versa? This way you could save on shipping costs by just having the gears sent to you instead of the entire diff assembly.

Last I heard MSA had them. Edit: sorry I can't get the link to work.

Carl, I need a tissue.

Give them the intake also so they can match the ports.

Well, I think we can stop trying to convince him to save it. He done killed it :dead: :stupid: :tapemouth .

Make sure you get solid concrete blocks! DO NOT get cinder blocks (the ones that are hollow) that will crush with the weight of the car.

As was mentioned before. Your car do with it as you please. A V-8 swap would definately push your eyes back into your head. But as also mentioned; a numbers matching unmolested original in good condition will fetch a pretty penny. If the interior is in as good a shape as the exterior you wouldn't have any problem making a huge profit. I've seen low mileage originals go for $15,000+. You could take that money and get a 240 that has a v-8 already in it. Save you from a lot of work. $.02

I would guess that your ducting is blocked somewhere. Start by removeing the blower motor. You should be able to scope out the area and see where the problem is.

It's been a while since I pulled one but I remember it came out pretty easy. I think I removed the driveshaft's and all the supporting bolts, then slid the diff forward enough to get the rear mount out of the way. Then it moved back no problem. Sorry I can't be of more help, maybe you could buy me a plane ticket down there and I would be happy to take it out for you :classic: (kidding). Good luck.

Hey, I had a great time. Some good looking Z's. I think I saw you, but since I've never met you it's a little hard to tell. I'll be there next year and I'll be taking MY Z. Even if I have to trailer her. Maybe even to the ZCCA convention (If I knew when it was). That BSR was pretty sweet. I wouldn't mind taking her out for a spin :classic: .

C'mon Victor, a little lead, some careful work with the dremmel. Viola!

It's the oil pick-up that gets in the way. That is the arm that reaches down into the bottom of the oil pan to pick-up the oil. All gaskets dry up after 30 or so years, It will also depend on the gasket material (cork, rubber, paper etc..). Yes, it is possible for the pan to be warped already with a combination of an old gasket. Becareful when you do pull the pan, like beandip mentioned you do not want to disturb any sludge or crud inside the engine. This stuff acts like little pieces of plastic and will clog oil passages, sieze pumps, burn bearings etc.. Good luck.

Hey Brian, Installation of the gasket is a piece of cake, as long as the motor is out of the car. If the motor is still in the car it is impossible to remove the pan. You can however unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine some to get more clearance. Once you get the new gasket in place finger tighten all the bolts then torque from the center out, first on side then the other. I think the proper torque is about 5-8 lbs. You should re-torque them after about 500 miles. Your dirty oil could be several things depending on the condition of the engine.

Here is an idea. Buy this poor soul off of E-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7912855949 I bet there is quite a few parts you could use. FWIW this car has been on e-bay for a while it keeps getting relisted and the price has dropped drastically. Good luck Ed

Eric, I found those guys at a "Good Guys" car show in Del Mar, CA. Out of all the other bumper / chrome guys up there they where the only one's that knew what a Datsun 240z was. Hope it all works out for you, let us know. Ed

Eric, call "THE BUMPER SHOP, INC." They are located on 828 E. Florence Ave. Los Angeles, Ca (323) 585-3865 or 2921. These guys hooked me up when I lived down in San Diego. They drove a freshly chromed bumper out to my house (3 hour drive) and exchanged it for my old beat-up bumper on the spot.

I used the plastic sheet stuff found at Home Depot. I can't remember what thickness but the thicker the better. I found it around the paint / tarp section. I also used "rope window caulk" to stick it to the door.

I'll be there! Hope to run into you guys, look for the guy wearing a green Jets cap.

A guy like that has an ego problem. I bet he has a mullet.

I finally found a 1/4 NPT tap at Ace Hardware (Home Depot just scratched their heads). The plug I got at a performance auto parts store. Stainless steel allen head NPT plug for $2.11.

Is this what your talking about; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=13887&highlight=r200