Ed

I bought mine in El Cajon, CA back in 4/98 she had 23,652 miles on the odo. Probably 123,652. She was in pretty good shape. I paid $2295, still have the bill of sale. In the following four years I must have put atleast 100,000 miles on her. She was a daily driver. I replaced all the rubber, put in a five speed. Did the L28 swap, exhaust, wheels, brakes, etc... Then in 2002 I moved her to New York where she got a full restoration for her 30th birthday. Now she only see's nice weather and has 1,200 miles on her since I finished the restoration Aug of 2005. She's been taking first place at every show she's been to. Now I'm going to try restoring my 74 Honda CB750.

Unscrew the reverse light switch and pour fluid in through there, It's the one that's on the same side as the filler plug and a little forward. But like previously mentioned if you have screeching this probably means the tranny is gone. Pull the drain plug and check the magnet for debris.

Are you talking about the metal brackets that go down and back and bolt to the frame? Those are not part of your spoiler but are bumper brackets.

On page three it shows a picture. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9616&highlight=distributor+cap

Well Mike I stand corrected. Sorry for the bad info. I had no idea. I guess I learned something new today. I wonder if that is only on the 72's? Thanks for correcting me . Bruce you around?

Hey Mike, I hope I understand you correctly. The insulator does not block any coolant passages. In the pictures below I outlined where the water jacket is. Not saying that it's impossible but the water jacket in the intake would have to corrode through about 1/4 - 3/8 of aluminum before it reached the runner. I think the first thing to corrode would be either the freeze plug or one of the nipples where the hoses attach.

Hey Mitch, you will find that most members here at Classiczcars are "purists" and don't take too well to extreme modifications. We like the keep the classic in z cars. If you would like to talk to guys that like to put anything and everything into a z car you should check out Hybridz.org And the lightest chassis came in the 1970 model year. Ed

Hi Mitch and welcome, To quickly answer. Look at the I.D. plate inside the drivers door jamb. Or the gross weight might be on a sticker under the hood. Dimensions - no clue, maybe a service manual? and the 240,260,280 are very similar but not identical. Some parts will swap and some will not. If you get a parts catalog either from MSA or Black Dragon auto you will be able to compare parts. In the catalog you will see which part fits what year. I know what you mean by the search but it really does help. Unfortunately you do have to sift through some of the mumbo jumbo but the answer is there. Especially if it's a subject that has been dicussed several times. Lots of members don't like to beat a dead horse. Once again Welcome. I think we have two other members from Hawaii.

If the intake manifold is leaking it would leak at the manifold where the coolant passages are. There is no way for coolant to leak into the combustion chamber via the intake manifold.

If it's the kind of spoiler I'm thinking about then those "handles" are the pockets for the turn signals. Here is a picture of mine that will hopefully help. If it's not the same please post a picture. The pockets below the turn signals are designed to be used as cooling ducts for your brakes but people have used them to install fog/driving lights. Do not trim your spoiler in any way until you are sure that it is secured properly to the car.

I'm strapped in and waiting. Let's see the very first picture you have of her. The very first.

Some of you already got this one but I figured it was worth sharing. Halloween.bmp

R/C cars? What class and where have you raced? Oh yea, welcome to the club!

Hey, do you have two tens for a five? IMO you've been taken to the cleaners. But what can you expect from Midas. I hope they throw in a lifetime guarantee. In 2000 I took my Z with only the MSA header to a shop. They installed a 2 1/2 aluminized steel exhaust with a resonator and a flowmaster. For..you might want to sit down.... $125.00 U.S. dollars. And it still looks and sounds as good as the day they installed it. I am very proud of the work they did and would recommend them in a heartbeat. I would have paid $300 bucks for the work they did.

If you have water coming out of your tailpipe after the car has warmed up and been driven for atleast 15 minutes then you have a leaking head gasket.

I WISH! I Wish, i wish..... i...... wish......:disappoin

Good points about moisture, also what size air compressor do you have? How many CFM does it put out?

I have the exact same blaster. The only media that I have had luck with is the glass bead 80 grit. It also takes a bit to get the adjustments just right, air vs the amount of media. Try letting the tank fill up with air with about 80 psi. Open up the air flow (top valve) until you get a nice stream of air, about the same pressure as you would want to work with. Then slowly open the lower valve. It should start to flow before you get the lower valve open 1/2 way. If she still doesn't flow change the media.

Rust is like cancer. You must remove all of it or it will come back. If you use bog (bondo) it will look nice for a couple of months, but then it will start to crack and eventually fall off. If you want to fix it right. Remove the taillight and bumper cut out the rusted metal. Fabricate a patch and weld it in place. Paint both sides and you have a permanent fix.

Not sure if I understand you correctly. You say your car is smoking at the tailpipe? And your pretty sure it's water? Is the water level in the radiator decreasing? Does the radiator blow water out of the overflow? If so there is a good chance you have a leaking head gasket.

I haven't heard of this. Maybe your just unlucky when it comes to passenger side u-joints? What I have heard is that some of the earlier model Z's have the diff mounted in a location where it is not alligned with the half shafts. They are further forward by a few inches. This is a common modification that early Z owners do, move the diff back to where the half shafts are aligned to the diff. Hopefully someone who has done this modification can elaborate a bit more. If not do a search and you will find this subject discussed previously. If your diff location isn't your problem than I would suggest getting a heavy duty u-joint. I think MSA sells them sorry I can't remember the name brand. Someone....?

Give "Too Intense Restoration" a call. They are always selling window rubber. (714) 293-5552. http://www.datsunrestore.com They have one listed for $90 bucks.

Welcome to the club. If I wasn't trying to move I'd take that wheelbarrow full of money and do the restoration for you. That is if you want your Z to look like mine My wife would probably kill me too but that's ok because it would be worth it.