Ed

I've heard of this before by another member, maybe about 4-6 months ago. Try doing a search. I can't remember what the outcome was.

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to come of all jolty:classic: . I was just getting straight to the point. I too wish dfr867 would clarify this way we could help him. 26th, I wish I was sunburnt, except I'm cold & wet. Gotta love NY (not:tapemouth).

The Z has no chassis. It's a unibody design.

I'm asumming your fill plug is of the male kind not the female kind. Since you mentioned using vice grips. Have you tried a pipe wrench? Throw a cheater bar on that and the plug stands no chance.

You really won't get much more power removing your emission stuff. But you could remove almost all of it with out having any problems (most of the emission parts probably don't even work anymore). Start with getting some early SU's with the air box. When I did mine I first got the carbs, had the Ztherapy rebuild done, then I went a little overboard and customized the carbs a little bit for appearance. Once I got them to where I wanted I replaced the flat tops. Good luck.

yup:classic: I would also recommend getting the headers with the ceramic coating they look alot nicer, last longer and reduce the temperature under the hood.

I paid about $200 for the front bumper with the guards out of a place in LA. Sorry can't remember the name. But they were real helpfull they sent a driver out to my house and we exchanged bumpers. I gave him my old rusty banged up bumper and he gave me a nicely rechromed straight bumper. The rear bumper I had done up here and they charged me $300 for the five pieces. If you can get it done for $280 it sounds like a steal. Hopefully they do good work.

Good point, another option is to find a shell in better condition but that has a trashed interior. Then swap your interior into the new shell.

when was the last time we got luv and kissess?

I checked out your gallery and you have a pretty nice car. Definately worth the work. Luckily for you, you live in Southern Cal. you should be able to find a donor no problem. Keep an eye out in the autotrader for someone parting out a 240. Or you can visit a junkyard. I used to live in San Diego and there used to be dozens of old Z's sitting there. I would suggest to start stripping the front end first to get a good idea of how much rust there is and what you have to replace. Good luck. BTW is that dash crack free?

Welcome, to the club. Hmmm, not really sure of what your trying to do. But if your looking for more horsepower and don't really care about originality then forget boring the L24 and get a L28. Use the cam in it and you would have gained 15-20 hp easy.

You need to give us some more information. Was the engine rebuilt recently? Did anyone do any kind of work to it? Has it been sitting for a while? Give us some more details. For right now it sound like the timing could be off. And the smoke you see coming out of the intake is vaporized fuel.

First off let me welcome you to the club. I hope you keep in touch with us as from what it sounds like you have a pretty nice car. Now to your questions: Even though you have what appears to be quite alot of damage it is repairable. Most of the rust appears to be the frame rail. I would suggest (since you live in Southern California) to find a donor car. Go to the junk yard and find a Z that has that part of the frame intact. If you specify where you live, someone will be able to point you in the right direction. Zedd findings offers only the floor and the frame rail which only extends to where the floor meets the firewall. A donor car would offer the T/C bracket. If you pull the motor and all the other stuff that's in the way it should save you some money. My question is if the rust in this part is this bad how do the other parts of the car look? Like the drivers side? Or the rear hatch area? Oh yea, any body shop should have someone qualified to weld in the replacement body parts. Keep us informed.

I haven't heard anything good about the 4bbl set-up either. There was a member here that had this set-up and was very dissapointed with the dyno results. The stock carbs actually produced more HP. I think you would be happier getting rebuilt SU's with your header exhaust combo. And if you have money left over rebuild the top end.

I had forgotten about this thread. Talk about digging up the past:classic: . venom42, it should be ok to remove the plug with your impact but I wouldn't put it back on with it. As far as your shifter getting hot this is normal if the car has been running a while. But it sounds like your going to change the fluid anyway so you should be safe.

Hey, welcome to the club. I'm not that far from you. On the rims you need to measure the bolt pattern and the offset to see if they are compatable with the Z or you could just compare them to what ever you have currently on you Z. Are they 14 or 15's? If there is anything you need give me a PM and I'll be glad to give you a hand.

I don't know if this will help you guys or just confuse you some more but here is a picture of the original radio out of my 72.

I don't think the hood ornament was an option, they all had them. The one's that don't have them now is because the owners have removed them.

Did you guys notice the radio?

All the early Zed's have manual rack and pinion steering. Up until the 81ZX I believe.

Oh, yea. I remember doing this once. I was burping unleaded for hours:sick: .

If you can go and take some pictures of it and post them here. We would be able to tell you what's good and what's not. BTW you mentioned doing this car in a year. I would assume that you have a heated garage, correct?

Not too sure of the nationality but she would have long sleek curves that are "erotic" to look at. Soft, smooth skin without any blemishes. A head turner at any angle. Then beneath the skin (under the hood) she would be a wolf in sheeps clothing, agressive, yet graceful. Fast yet smooth. And always, always wanting to go for a "ride":classic: