Ed

Glad you got it done. Hope I never have to jump through that hoop.:classic:

If someone took a hammer to get the pins out I would bet money that the pistons and the rods are dammaged.

Check out MSA (Motorsports Auto). They have a few books on the subject. On is "How to restore your Datsun Z car" by Wick Humble and another is "How to rebuild your NIssan/Datsun OHC engine" Those two books will give you the basic idea of the work involved. Remember that not only do you have to have a car and the knowledge of how to do it you also need the room and time.:classic: Good luck.

Good story, had me rolling.. Why didn't you use a spring compressor? Autozone loans them out. Live and learn. :classic:

Did you adjust the valves before you did the comperession test?

If it's really been sitting for 20 years you should rebuild the engine. When you have it out pull the oil pan and the head. Inspect the cylinder walls. If the walls have any signs of rust then you will need to have the walls worked on. If you are not going to pull the head then pour some oil into the cylinders via the spark plug hole and turn the engine over a couple of times (that is if it's not siezed). A few more goodies you should keep from the 82 would be the five speed, the diff and the rear disk brakes.:classic:

When you take your valve cover off inspect all your rockers, make sure the springs are all in place. Do a valve adjustment. Look at your chain, do a thorough inspectioin on all the moving parts. You should be able to reuse a good gasket a few times as long as it's not abused or as flat as a pancake. I've reused mine a couple of times. On your "clanging" does it do it all the time? At idle and higher rpm? Give us some more details. A spun bearing will make a grinding noise. Like rubbing a big stick on pavement.

I used a Distributor from a 81, 280ZX. No problems. Do your homework before you start cutting wires.

You can use this gasket to lower your compression. Even with that and still pushing 9:1 you won't know for sure if your gonna need high octane fuel. Timing, air temp, and load will all make a difference. If you plan on running this engine for a while I would suggest either getting a N42 head or if your E88 is in good shape have that one worked on (buying a N42 will probably be cheaper if the valves are still in good shape). If you do install bigger valves on your E88 you will also need new seats to match. Do it now while you have the engine out. Flycutting the piston is used when the piston goes above the deck surface. Recesses are cut into the piston for valve clearance. If your worried about the CR get a N42 block from a 76-77 280. They already have a N42 head and also have dished pistons.

Glad to hear that it wasn't too bad. Is that your new car in your Avatar? Enjoy!

What condition are you looking for? Something that runs, needs a little TLC? Or a project, trailer it to your garage and get to work?

I wonder if Jean Todt is aware of this gaffe. He's working with Ferrari Formula one now (and doing pretty good).

Guus, I'll be over in a few:D .

I feel your pain....

What about using some spray on stuff? Like Rhino-lining or Line-X? It would fill all those little nook's and cranny's that moisture likes so much.

Another

Here is one...

You are correct. The only way to adjust the T/C is by shims and washers at the pocket. If you don't want to remove the rod then use some "U" shaped shims on the front end of the bushings to "push" the control arm forward. To move the rod back you have to remove the shims. If there are no shims or extra washers at the front end of the bushings then you can't adjust the rod. Now you can spend some money and make your own adjustable T/C rods. You can either take the old T/C rod and have the threads cut down the rod about another 3-4 inches. Then you could use a nut to make the adjustments. I've seen some pics in the gallery of these. I'll try and find some....

Are you talking about the seam that is above the 1/4 window?

Ouch!! Looks like you've got some work to do.

I've never really cared for a convertible Z. It alters the flowing lines of the body. The Z is a car with a hatch back, not a trunk (boot for you foreigners). Buy an Alfa Romeo! Or a Fiat! Or a MG! Or a Triumph! I've never seen a convertible that was done properly. Like the name implies convert-ible, having a top that may be lowered or removed. You should have a top. Not like those cars where they chop it up into a rolling bathtub. :mad: