Ed

By the way, how did your trip go?

If your talking about the carb in your avatar it is a SU carb. Stock on the early 240Z's go to Z-therapy for any info.

Thanks Will, this is the response I was hoping for.

yea, it sounds tough enough but will it cause discoloration or look clear coated?

Has anyone used the Glisten PC with the AP-120? They are POR-15 products. I want to use something on my polished aluminum to protect it.

The headers coated with Jet-Hot supposedly reduce underhood temps.

Here is a stupid question: Is a UK mile the same distance as a US mile?:stupid:

Engine bay, look by the passenger side fresh air intake.

If you can wait about a month I will have some for you.

awful lot of rust:(

Sounds like your head may have had some work on it. Or is really worn. What type of head is it and is there a chance that it has a different cam? On your #3 inlet a few things come to mind: 1. Since your valves were out of adjustment the valve has worn into the seat. 2. Someone replaced the valves for some that are a little longer. Different heads use different length valves. How many miles does the engine have? Maybe do a compression test to see what condition your engine is in? Getting your valves running properly is very important. The last thing you want is to break a valve.

That didn't work let's try this. dumbass.bmp

Can you believe this:

O.K. found what your looking for. 1970 10/69 - 5/70 1971 1/71 - 8/71 1972 9/71 - 6/72 1973 7/72 - 7/73

Now you NJ guys don't go thinking your all alone up here. I might not be in the same state but I'm still VERY close. And I've been watching this post.:devious:

Alright already don't get your pant's in a bunch:classic: . I'm not sure if on the Z it's the same but production cycles usually run from November to October, in other words if your car has a production date after 10/71 your car is considered a 72. If your car has a 10/71 production date then it's a late 71. Where the break between early and late is I don't know.

Yup, you have to remove the front cover, what will give you even more room is to remove the radiator. After you get the cover off you can see how much of the bolt is sticking out. If your lucky a pair of vise grips will take it out. If it's in there and your going to do the "drill / easy out" thing then first drill the center of the broken bolt with a 1/8 bit important that you drill in the CENTER, next take the largest size bit that will drill out as much of the broken bolt as you can maybe 1/4 or larger. Be careful not to drill into the threads of the block. Use lots of lubricant (WD-40) then use the easy out. DON'T force it, no more than 5-10 lbs of torque. If it doesn't move heat it up with a torch and try again. The last thing you want is a broken easy out in the hole (Trust me on this). Then like 2manyzs said chase the threads to get it all nice and clean. Good luck Edit: try to replace as many of the bolts as you can and put some anti-sieze on the threads.:classic:

I kind of thought the same thing that the rear transverse link looked a little off, that's why I asked about the drivers side toe.

I couldn't tell by the pictures either. What does the driver's side look like? Any chance that side is toed out?

What do you guys think about putting the bushing in some hot water for a bit then massaging it until there is no gap then clamping it down? Would the hot water soften the bushing up enough?

Ahh yes the wire. You can use it if your on the road at night and you find out some electrical item doesn't work. Or you find out some wires are fried and you can jump it with your wire and you can also use that wire to tie things up so they don't drag on the road like the exhaust.Basically it's like everything else mentioned, it's all just in case. If your in the middle of nowhere someplace between Las Vegas and Las Cruzes and something happens atleast your prepared and able to get back on the road. Personally I think that your going to have a great uneventful trip. Just you, your new Z, and the joy of cruizing down the open road.

Here is a 73. Here

Before you get on the road change the oil, and the fuel filter. Since it's an automatic either replace the battery or take a pair of jumper cables with you. Make sure you have a good spare, jack and lug wrench. For the road take: 1. A gallon of water 2. A quart of oil 3. A roll of duct tape 4. About 10' of wire 5. Some basic tools Take your cell phone incase the car stops. Oh yea, enjoy!

1. No, having a blown shock will only induce a bounce in your tire, kind of like riding only on the spring. 2. Most likely the PO hit something, and without seeing for ourselves it could be anything from the A arm to the hub. First I would check the A arm bushings where they attach to the body. Make sure everything looks square and straight. If you do take it to the allignment shop DONT have them do the work for you, have them tell you what is wrong then do the work yourself. You will get raped by the allignment shop for parts and labor. And yes you are correct there are no adjustments to be made back there. Let us know what you find and we will help you through it!

I've used "Drylock concrete floor paint" that you can buy at Home Depot on my basement floor. Works good in regular traffic areas but, the second you drop something heavy on the floor it chips. Definately would not recommend this stuff for a garage floor. There is a product called Ucoat it that is a commercial grade epoxy. There kit is good for two coats on a 24'x24' garage for $250.