Ed

Now you NJ guys don't go thinking your all alone up here. I might not be in the same state but I'm still VERY close. And I've been watching this post.:devious:

Alright already don't get your pant's in a bunch:classic: . I'm not sure if on the Z it's the same but production cycles usually run from November to October, in other words if your car has a production date after 10/71 your car is considered a 72. If your car has a 10/71 production date then it's a late 71. Where the break between early and late is I don't know.

Yup, you have to remove the front cover, what will give you even more room is to remove the radiator. After you get the cover off you can see how much of the bolt is sticking out. If your lucky a pair of vise grips will take it out. If it's in there and your going to do the "drill / easy out" thing then first drill the center of the broken bolt with a 1/8 bit important that you drill in the CENTER, next take the largest size bit that will drill out as much of the broken bolt as you can maybe 1/4 or larger. Be careful not to drill into the threads of the block. Use lots of lubricant (WD-40) then use the easy out. DON'T force it, no more than 5-10 lbs of torque. If it doesn't move heat it up with a torch and try again. The last thing you want is a broken easy out in the hole (Trust me on this). Then like 2manyzs said chase the threads to get it all nice and clean. Good luck Edit: try to replace as many of the bolts as you can and put some anti-sieze on the threads.:classic:

I kind of thought the same thing that the rear transverse link looked a little off, that's why I asked about the drivers side toe.

I couldn't tell by the pictures either. What does the driver's side look like? Any chance that side is toed out?

What do you guys think about putting the bushing in some hot water for a bit then massaging it until there is no gap then clamping it down? Would the hot water soften the bushing up enough?

Ahh yes the wire. You can use it if your on the road at night and you find out some electrical item doesn't work. Or you find out some wires are fried and you can jump it with your wire and you can also use that wire to tie things up so they don't drag on the road like the exhaust.Basically it's like everything else mentioned, it's all just in case. If your in the middle of nowhere someplace between Las Vegas and Las Cruzes and something happens atleast your prepared and able to get back on the road. Personally I think that your going to have a great uneventful trip. Just you, your new Z, and the joy of cruizing down the open road.

Here is a 73. Here

Before you get on the road change the oil, and the fuel filter. Since it's an automatic either replace the battery or take a pair of jumper cables with you. Make sure you have a good spare, jack and lug wrench. For the road take: 1. A gallon of water 2. A quart of oil 3. A roll of duct tape 4. About 10' of wire 5. Some basic tools Take your cell phone incase the car stops. Oh yea, enjoy!

1. No, having a blown shock will only induce a bounce in your tire, kind of like riding only on the spring. 2. Most likely the PO hit something, and without seeing for ourselves it could be anything from the A arm to the hub. First I would check the A arm bushings where they attach to the body. Make sure everything looks square and straight. If you do take it to the allignment shop DONT have them do the work for you, have them tell you what is wrong then do the work yourself. You will get raped by the allignment shop for parts and labor. And yes you are correct there are no adjustments to be made back there. Let us know what you find and we will help you through it!

I've used "Drylock concrete floor paint" that you can buy at Home Depot on my basement floor. Works good in regular traffic areas but, the second you drop something heavy on the floor it chips. Definately would not recommend this stuff for a garage floor. There is a product called Ucoat it that is a commercial grade epoxy. There kit is good for two coats on a 24'x24' garage for $250.

Go with your heart.

Would that fluctuation coincide with the turn signal relay? Maybe the PO tried to "modify" your marker lights into turn signals? Just a guess.

I'm just starting to learn myself but I'll help you with what I can. Depending on what type of material you are going to sandblast will help you choose your blasting media. What are you going to blast? Glass bead works great for aluminium and other soft metals but is very dusty. Sand works best for hard metals and is cheaper, but you have to be carefull not to inhale the dust. Look in your phone book under sandblasting equipment for someone who will have the materials you will need. Also, click the search button and do a search for sandblasting, you will find all kinds of info. Good luck.

The cut has to be up and to the back. Mine also has a gap of about 1cm. A little hard to see in this picture but you can make it out.

Compression readings usually vary depending on the engine set-up, type of pistons, head configuration etc... What your looking for when you do a compression test is one or two cylinders that read lower than the others. If your # 2 pushed 150lbs then that should be your benchmark. If the other pistons are way off that number then you might have a compression problem. But if the other's are close then your o.k. A bad cylinder will be very noticable and may only read half of what the other cylinders read. Your spark plugs are oily because of bad valve stem seals. While the engine is running oil will pass the bad seal and down the valve stem. While the engine is running this oil will burn up and come out of your tail pipe as blue smoke. When the engine is off this oil will drip down the valve into the combustion chamber and onto the spark plug. If you replace the seals yourself it's cheap about $3.00 a seal X 12= $36 bucks.:classic: Good luck.

C'mon boxers are loads of fun. Here's mine with my kids.

Like 2many said Boxers are a handful. Mine was, I should say IS as hyper as the day I got him. They are very affectionate and want all of your attention. They might calm down after a while of playing and take a nap but after the nap it's back to playing. :classic:

Out of those four pics of the bloodorange the top right is awsome. Can you imagine a car that reflects that much. It's like looking into a mirror!

Before you start welding make sure that the area to be welded is completely clean. Any rust, paint or other impurities will mess up your weld. On the dipping side, my opinion is if you dip it, then ALL the paint will be gone. Even the paint that is in those hard to reach places, like in the rocker pannels and under the rear wheel wells. Some of these places will be impossible to reach and if there is nothing there but bare metal then most likely it will rust from the inside out. Maybe after they do the acid dip they can dip it in primer?

I'm rebuilding the front strut assy. And was wondering about the dust shields. I am doing the Toyota caliper swap so I have to cut them anyway. I was contemplating not putting the dustshield back on. Now, I know that they are there to prevent dirt, water and other debree from coming into contact with the rotor but is there any other reason to keep the dust shield? Any opinions?

Reminds me of this Ferrari. (BTW good one DanielROFL ) Here

Bottom, no tail.