Ed

I've got a trivia question for you guys. When you go to the hardware store and find those nice new metric bolts. What is that red coating on the bolt?

Here I've done some work on the intake port. Removed material from around the guide and excess casting material on the port walls. After I smoothed the walls I went over it again to give it a textured feel. I did this to try and maintain a turbulant air flow which will hopefully maintain the air / fuel mixture.

I never thought that many were made. I found one and thought I was pretty lucky. I'm jealous.

Thanks Frank, The inner bearing cleaned up nicely. The outer bearing was kind of hard due to the outer seal. I was wondering if there was a "old timers" way of cleaning it. Ed

Those are the strut mount insulators. They are the same front and back. Only difference when assembled is the front ones have a bearing, the rears do not.

When I was in Okinawa (The Hawaii of japan) it seamed that all cars had these fender mirrors. I can't tell the difference between a special 240 mirror or a stock toyota mirror. To me they all look the same. :stupid: Now is there really a difference?

Keep the original pulley that the engine came with. There is really not much difference in size just that the original was balanced for that engine.

Here I broke out the dremmel tool and smoothed the transition of the port with the seat.

I just got my head back from the machine shop. They resurfaced it and installed new hardened intake seats. Now, I want to match port the intake with the head, smooth out the transition between the valve seat and the port and do a general smoothing. I will include pictures of my progress. Here is a picture of the three angle job on the seat. I'm not really happy with the transition of the port to the seat so here goes.

Mellow, you need a service manual.:classic:

Don't tell me that your driving your Z on the salty roads:cry: .

If you still have the original flat top carbs that would be the culprit. My 73 did the same in 30-40 F. The colder it got the worse it would get, the choke did very little to help. Changing to the round top carbs solved it though.

Here is a picture of the two different clutches. The one on the left is for a 73 the one on the right is for a 81.

Mellow here they are: Piston ring gap: Top. .0098-.0157 2nd. .0059-.0118 Oil. .0120-.0354 Piston ring side clearance: Top. .0016-.0029 2nd .0012-.0025 Oil. .0009-.0028 Con Rod big end play .008-.012 (side to side) Main bearing running clearance standard .0008-.0026 max .0047 Con Rod running clearance .009-.0026 max .0047

Not saying that this happened to you but, (I hate but's) One time I overheated, didn't notice it for about 5 minutes. Pulled over and had a heater hose blow. Let it cool, fixed it, and filled it back up. No problems for about a week then it slowly went down hill from there. It started to Idle bad and would always blow coolant out the overflow. Yup you guessed it. Blown head gasket between 3&4. Warped the head. Hopefully you just have a bad water pump. You mentioned that the fan was wedged against the top lip of the radiator. I was thinking that maybe your radiator came loose and fell against the fan? Let us know what you find.

Mellow, I've got the specs for bearing clearance and ring end gap at home. If nobody beats me to It I'll get it posted in a couple of hours. BTW would anybody have the torqe specs when using ARP bolts?

I've always wondered what they do with their creations after the show?

I pulled my bar from a 260. Here is a picture of the factory mount.

Have you checked the floats in the bowls? It might also be the filters in the bowls are clogged.

My 73 has those same factory mounts on the chassis. I had no problems installing it. No drilling.

The removable steering wheels and removing an engine part are great ideas IF you do it every time. Will you do it every time you get out of your car? Maybe for the first twenty times then you say to yourself "I'm only going in the store for a gallon of milk, five minutes" then BAM your precious is gone. Your system has to be something that is always active. Five minutes or all night your system has to protect. We all spend thousands of dollars rebuilding and restoring our cars. And the first thing we neglect is the security system. We keep those 30 year old locks hoping they are enough. Like Victor told us there was a piece of a knife in his ignition. How many of us know that our ignition is so worn out that you could turn it with a big screwdriver. You have got to admit our locks are junk. 30 years old and worn out. A visual deterent is always good, blinking lights or large bars on the steering wheel. But are they practical? My ideal security system is something that works and is practical. How about connecting the coil wire to your seat belt? Your car won't start until you buckle up? A hidden switch is always good but you have to remember to turn it every time. Carl's immobilizer is a great idea as long as you cut the right circuit. Putting a break in the appropriate circuit is crucial. Any thief that knows anything about cars will first try to jimmy the lock, why because it looks natural. Second if he has the time is to pop open the hood and hot wire the engine. Power to the coil and jump the starter. Gone. If you have an electric fuel pump then that is a great place for the hidden switch. Some of us don't have electric fuel pumps so we have to find something else. Me? I'm putting a push button that needs to be pressed in order for the starter to turn over (accesable only to my left hand). And a cut off switch to the distruibutor for overnight or extended parking. AND I will have the hood latch locked.

Well I put my rear brake together and tried to figure it out. Sorry to stay I was wrong in my earlier post:stupid: . It does look like the actuator sits agains the RWC at rest holding the adjusting "star" screw in place. The only time the adjusting screw doesn't have anything preventing it from returning is when the E brake is fully engaged. In other words the actuator sits agains the RWC. When the E brake is activated the actuator moves the adjuster to take out any slack. When the E brake is fully engaged the actuator's flat area is in contact with the adjuster thus allowing the adjuster to slacken. Somehow your adjuster continues to tighten. I've included a picture hoping you could find something different. Good luck.

I'll put one of my rear brakes together today and see how it works for sure. I'll get back to you in a couple of hours.:sleep: