Ed

As with most electrical units your best friend will be a volt meter or a test light. You say your getting power at the fuse box. Start there and trace the wire to connectors or relays then to the switch and then to the motor. Test the wire for power wherever you can. Good luck.

The adjuster has that screw that moves out when the adjuster turns. This screw pushes against the cylinder and the shoe. Take these two pieces appart and clean them with solvent also clean the inside of the cylinder where the adjuster sits in. Make sure it all turns freely and doesn't bind. Use some light grease to lube it up. Also make sure your e-brake cable isn't too tight where it won't let the finger disengage from the adjuster's teeth. What happens is everytime you pull the e-brake the finger turns your adjuster to automatically take out the slack between your shoes. When you release the brake the finger disengages from the adjuster and the adjuster will turn enough to remove excess pressure. I hope I'm right, I'm going off of memory here. Man I wish I had a car to look at.:mad: Good luck.

I would think a 1/2" drive impact gun would work the best. Especially if it's really on there. A good one will put close to 250lbs of pressure on it.

That is soooo cool! I'm happy for you:classic: :classic: :classic: !!! You must feel like a little kid again. Now don't go sleeping in your car, I know you've missed herROFL . Great News!!! Good for you!!!

Interesting stuff, especially how the pipe measurements change when you make a bend. Keep the updates and the pictures coming!

What they said!:classic:

Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, and would help us alot. Maybe if you could describe where the hoses go to? If you don't have a camera. Otherwise you could also look at the pictures in our gallery and see if those help. On a 73 the only hoses I can remember are: 1. From the fuel tank to the drivers side engine bay to a valve that is under the coil to the air cleaner. 2. From the top of the valve cover to the air cleaner. (this would be easier if I had a car to look at) 3. From the air pump to the air cleaner. Can't think of anymore. And as to how much the horsepower increased with your duel webers I would say it depends on how those carbs are set up and what size are they? But in stock form it isn't very much. 5-10 maybe.

Thanks Michael, I went shopping around today, looking for either stainless or yellow zinc metric, boy they are hard to find. I think I'm gonna give Chloe a jingle. Can you post her number? Oh, one more thing, I purchased the two front control arm to crossmember bolts from Victoria B. and I got the right size bolt but the coating on it is black. Is this black oxide or something?

I wouldn't dream of it. As a matter of fact I'm not doing any body work on it. The little that there is to do I'm having done by a pro. Along with the paint. But on a lighter side, I learned alot about doing body work by working on cars just like this. What better opportunity to learn? I can also see how the estimate for repairs is so high. New pannels, new lights, new this, new that. Labor etc.... A chain, a big tree, a big hammer, get that thing on the road and drive it until it falls apart! Yaa, you betcha!

Ohhh, you betcha! A big hammer can fix alot. Even that fender. With a little body filler I could make that dent disappear!

Thanks Carl, by the way what are you doing up so early? 4am 4u

Sorry to hear about your missfortune. I know how it feels. Unfortunately I think your gonna have to chalk this one to experience. For one I don't think your gonna get any money from mister americandrunk. Just be glad you didn't get hurt and the car wasn't totaled. On the other hand I think you can fix your car for about $200 or so bucks. Get a chain, attach one end to a BIG tree and the other to that fender. The lights you should be able to pick up at a junk yard. Those rubber pieces you can reuse. It won't be pretty but it will get you back on the road.

I believe most 4 & 5 speeds have the same gear ratio 1-4 & reverse. You could find a 4sp with different ratios it would just require a little homework to find the correct year. If you plan on keeping your Z stock and use it for street driving a 5th gear is always nice when your on the highway. I don't think there are any disadvantages.

I'm looking to replace the old rusty bolts in the suspension components. For example; the T/C rod to A arm bolts, crossmember to frame, steering rack to crossmember, and so on. For these high stress areas I want to use a high grade bolt that won't rust over time. Either I can replace with OEM type bolts that are plated or stainless. I'm sure that new plated ones could last another 30 years but, I was thinking about stainless in certain areas.

Which bolts are stronger. Grade 8.8 or stainless?

I did the same dizzy swap on my 240 at first the tach didn't work but I reversed the + and - on the coil and she works fine. I think the stock tach won't work if you use an aftermarket ignition like MSD or something.

Are these new or rebuilt? And do they come with the pads?

I think I'm gonna install a hidden "kill switch" which will deactivate or put a break in the distruibutor circuit. And to prevent the theif from finding it or bypassing it I will put a locking mechanism on my hood latch. If they can't get access to the engine chances are they won't be able to "hot wire" it.

I cleaned the inner bearing and am not to happy with the way it sounds. I've got the outer soaking in solvent to see if this cleans it up. I might just go with new. Piece of mind.

??? not sure what you mean by the lead baloon thingy. But to answer you question, NO, rear louvers, spoiler and the front air dam are NOT standard.

I bet if this guy was a child kidnapper they would have the FBI putting the cuffs on him right now. Sometimes I think the law is prejudice. :mad:

You could take it to an allignment shop that offers lifetime allignments (Firestone). Have them put it on the rack and when they give it the once over they will give you a list of why it won't allign. Say thank-you, I'll bring it back when I can and take the car home and fix it. Then when your done you can take it back to the shop and get your allignment. This will work for any work you do on the suspension. I use my lifetime once a year.

I'm repacking the rear wheel bearings. I noticed that the inside bearing is just a regular bearing and should repack fine after I wash it. But my question is about the outer bearing, I noticed that the outside of the bearing is sealed, how do I clean and repack this bearing without destroying the seal?

It's definately water. When I removed mine I found about a pound of silt, dirt, rust, scale, crap stuff.

There is a plug on the drivers side of the engine. By the #6 cylinder, about 1/2 the distance between the top and bottom. Does anyone know what it's for?