Ed

Mellow, you need a service manual.:classic:

Don't tell me that your driving your Z on the salty roads:cry: .

If you still have the original flat top carbs that would be the culprit. My 73 did the same in 30-40 F. The colder it got the worse it would get, the choke did very little to help. Changing to the round top carbs solved it though.

Here is a picture of the two different clutches. The one on the left is for a 73 the one on the right is for a 81.

Mellow here they are: Piston ring gap: Top. .0098-.0157 2nd. .0059-.0118 Oil. .0120-.0354 Piston ring side clearance: Top. .0016-.0029 2nd .0012-.0025 Oil. .0009-.0028 Con Rod big end play .008-.012 (side to side) Main bearing running clearance standard .0008-.0026 max .0047 Con Rod running clearance .009-.0026 max .0047

Not saying that this happened to you but, (I hate but's) One time I overheated, didn't notice it for about 5 minutes. Pulled over and had a heater hose blow. Let it cool, fixed it, and filled it back up. No problems for about a week then it slowly went down hill from there. It started to Idle bad and would always blow coolant out the overflow. Yup you guessed it. Blown head gasket between 3&4. Warped the head. Hopefully you just have a bad water pump. You mentioned that the fan was wedged against the top lip of the radiator. I was thinking that maybe your radiator came loose and fell against the fan? Let us know what you find.

Mellow, I've got the specs for bearing clearance and ring end gap at home. If nobody beats me to It I'll get it posted in a couple of hours. BTW would anybody have the torqe specs when using ARP bolts?

I've always wondered what they do with their creations after the show?

I pulled my bar from a 260. Here is a picture of the factory mount.

Have you checked the floats in the bowls? It might also be the filters in the bowls are clogged.

My 73 has those same factory mounts on the chassis. I had no problems installing it. No drilling.

The removable steering wheels and removing an engine part are great ideas IF you do it every time. Will you do it every time you get out of your car? Maybe for the first twenty times then you say to yourself "I'm only going in the store for a gallon of milk, five minutes" then BAM your precious is gone. Your system has to be something that is always active. Five minutes or all night your system has to protect. We all spend thousands of dollars rebuilding and restoring our cars. And the first thing we neglect is the security system. We keep those 30 year old locks hoping they are enough. Like Victor told us there was a piece of a knife in his ignition. How many of us know that our ignition is so worn out that you could turn it with a big screwdriver. You have got to admit our locks are junk. 30 years old and worn out. A visual deterent is always good, blinking lights or large bars on the steering wheel. But are they practical? My ideal security system is something that works and is practical. How about connecting the coil wire to your seat belt? Your car won't start until you buckle up? A hidden switch is always good but you have to remember to turn it every time. Carl's immobilizer is a great idea as long as you cut the right circuit. Putting a break in the appropriate circuit is crucial. Any thief that knows anything about cars will first try to jimmy the lock, why because it looks natural. Second if he has the time is to pop open the hood and hot wire the engine. Power to the coil and jump the starter. Gone. If you have an electric fuel pump then that is a great place for the hidden switch. Some of us don't have electric fuel pumps so we have to find something else. Me? I'm putting a push button that needs to be pressed in order for the starter to turn over (accesable only to my left hand). And a cut off switch to the distruibutor for overnight or extended parking. AND I will have the hood latch locked.

Well I put my rear brake together and tried to figure it out. Sorry to stay I was wrong in my earlier post:stupid: . It does look like the actuator sits agains the RWC at rest holding the adjusting "star" screw in place. The only time the adjusting screw doesn't have anything preventing it from returning is when the E brake is fully engaged. In other words the actuator sits agains the RWC. When the E brake is activated the actuator moves the adjuster to take out any slack. When the E brake is fully engaged the actuator's flat area is in contact with the adjuster thus allowing the adjuster to slacken. Somehow your adjuster continues to tighten. I've included a picture hoping you could find something different. Good luck.

I'll put one of my rear brakes together today and see how it works for sure. I'll get back to you in a couple of hours.:sleep:

As with most electrical units your best friend will be a volt meter or a test light. You say your getting power at the fuse box. Start there and trace the wire to connectors or relays then to the switch and then to the motor. Test the wire for power wherever you can. Good luck.

The adjuster has that screw that moves out when the adjuster turns. This screw pushes against the cylinder and the shoe. Take these two pieces appart and clean them with solvent also clean the inside of the cylinder where the adjuster sits in. Make sure it all turns freely and doesn't bind. Use some light grease to lube it up. Also make sure your e-brake cable isn't too tight where it won't let the finger disengage from the adjuster's teeth. What happens is everytime you pull the e-brake the finger turns your adjuster to automatically take out the slack between your shoes. When you release the brake the finger disengages from the adjuster and the adjuster will turn enough to remove excess pressure. I hope I'm right, I'm going off of memory here. Man I wish I had a car to look at.:mad: Good luck.

I would think a 1/2" drive impact gun would work the best. Especially if it's really on there. A good one will put close to 250lbs of pressure on it.

That is soooo cool! I'm happy for you:classic: :classic: :classic: !!! You must feel like a little kid again. Now don't go sleeping in your car, I know you've missed herROFL . Great News!!! Good for you!!!

Interesting stuff, especially how the pipe measurements change when you make a bend. Keep the updates and the pictures coming!

What they said!:classic:

Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, and would help us alot. Maybe if you could describe where the hoses go to? If you don't have a camera. Otherwise you could also look at the pictures in our gallery and see if those help. On a 73 the only hoses I can remember are: 1. From the fuel tank to the drivers side engine bay to a valve that is under the coil to the air cleaner. 2. From the top of the valve cover to the air cleaner. (this would be easier if I had a car to look at) 3. From the air pump to the air cleaner. Can't think of anymore. And as to how much the horsepower increased with your duel webers I would say it depends on how those carbs are set up and what size are they? But in stock form it isn't very much. 5-10 maybe.

Thanks Michael, I went shopping around today, looking for either stainless or yellow zinc metric, boy they are hard to find. I think I'm gonna give Chloe a jingle. Can you post her number? Oh, one more thing, I purchased the two front control arm to crossmember bolts from Victoria B. and I got the right size bolt but the coating on it is black. Is this black oxide or something?

I wouldn't dream of it. As a matter of fact I'm not doing any body work on it. The little that there is to do I'm having done by a pro. Along with the paint. But on a lighter side, I learned alot about doing body work by working on cars just like this. What better opportunity to learn? I can also see how the estimate for repairs is so high. New pannels, new lights, new this, new that. Labor etc.... A chain, a big tree, a big hammer, get that thing on the road and drive it until it falls apart! Yaa, you betcha!

Ohhh, you betcha! A big hammer can fix alot. Even that fender. With a little body filler I could make that dent disappear!