Ed

Nice! Now let's get back to painting. Thanks for the info Guys.

Say Nate, As a proud owner of a 73 I have to say, Go for it! The front bumper is really the only visible difference. It has the larger bumper guards and the bumper itself is mounted about 2" away from the body. The gap is then filled with molded rubber inserts. The mounts are bolted to the body above the frame rail with 3 bolts. These bolt holes are what I used to attach my rotisserie to the body. When I was looking for a replacement bumper I found that because of the mounts only a 73 bumper will fit a 73. Now if you change the mounts I'm sure you could put what ever year bumper you want. One advantage of a 73 is it has factory rear swaybar mounts. A swaybar from a 74 bolts right up. Unless the 73 your looking at already has one. Let us know if you get it!

Enrique, the part has been sitting for a week. I noticed that on the sharp edges the paint is a bit transparent. I want to give it a second coat, will scuffing with 300 grit be good enough? Carl, you are correct it is freaking cold up here. Makes me wonder why I ever left CA. I moved all the parts to my car down to the basement where it is nice and toasty. Only the shell remains in the garage.

Now that would be a gas!! I remember a movie where a security system was installed in a Porche that was designed to not only provent theft but also as a "cage" to detain the perpetrator until the authorities arrived, or until you got a big stick.

If you do install an electronic immobilizer the "break" should be between the coil and the distributor or inside the distributor itself. Putting it before the coil to prevent 12v getting to the coil is pointless.

Thanks Guys! Now back to painting:classic:

I'm busy doing the POR-15 thing and I've got a couple of questions. I've alaready done a few pieces and was wondering if I should wipe down the parts with Marine Clean before applying a second coat? They are still clean just full of fingerprints and a little dust. Next question, I have a piece that has been Marine Cleaned and Metal Ready'd, I do not plan on painting it with POR, will this piece rust? Or is the coat of Metal Ready enough to prevent rust? Thanks guys.

Those electronic immobilizers will do very little for a carburated engine. Anyone can "hotwire" your engine in 10 seconds and be gone. I think we need to immobilize some other way.

Whenever I see those rims I always think of a 280. I hate to say it but I didn't really like them (maybe because I'm a 240 guy). Then when I saw them polished, WOW, I love the polished look!

Victor, I think that the local PD will do very little trying to recover your car. They will usually wait until someone runs into it. You can however start an investigation of your own. Go back to the scene and look around. Are there any surveillance cameras in the parking lot? Is there a history of cars being stolen from this area? I remember when I lived in San Diego, Home Depot was the hot spot for cars to be stolen. Start poking around. You never know what you may find. Good luck. Ed

Probably the wrong forum for this but I figured while were on the subject of flares. Do you have to cut the wheel well to install the flares?

Man!! Sorry to hear that. My thoughts are with you. Don't give up hope you've got alot of people keeping an eye out for her.

When I was stripping down my car I noticed that the ride height progressively increased. As the car lost weight it kept on growing. Maybe that's what's going on? Just a thought.

Couldn't we start another forum with nothing but pictures of factory markings? It would be an excellent source for those who are doing that factory restoration.

I'm not sure if you have it available down under but we have a product called " J-B Weld" works wonders with metal.

Ciudad Juarez? Did the police ever catch that serial killer from 2 years ago?

Some parts are and some are not. Best thing to do would be to get a catalog from either MSA or VIctoria British . Then you could compare parts and see if they are compatable.

This is as far as iI've gotten with mine. Getting ready for the exhaust.

Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a stock pair of rotors. Then design a pattern on your computer to fit the rotor (or copy one off the web). Transfer the pattern to the rotor. Then take it to the drill press and have at it? (Offcourse don't forget to chamfer the holes). Sounds like maybe two hours worth of work.

I guess I missed that part.:stupid:

Nice looking car, I hate to nit pick, but what about the carbs? I thought all 73's had flat tops? Also the choke cable is on the drivers side of the firewall. On my 73 it's on the passenger side. Did they have both in 73?

I found the exact same model at Wal-Mart a couple of months back. Slowly putting it together.:classic:

Freakin awsome!!!

Thanks guys, looks like it's time for the BFH.

Can someone look at there front crossmember and see if these indents are there. They are on the steering rack support arm passenger side.